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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Another accurate perspective on the e46 in my opinion.
Stepping back one more increment, I believe that most of what you refer to stems from BMW's lack of wanting to go back and reengineer parts that show weaknesses. If they took care of the laundry list weak points, we'd have the new parts to apply and then never have to worry about them again.
Cause in point is the classic window regulator that breaks repeatedly on the same owner's cars. And I'm even surprised the aftermarket has not tackled this part too. Stewart did a new pump that has a much better track record than oem, and the increased price does not stop many of us from switching to it.

I've owned a 240 series Volvo, a '96 Honda Prelude, a 1966 Chevrolet c10 pick-up and a '91 Subaru Legacy and I currently own a 2000 323i and have NEVER seen a laundry-list of problems/issues to expect like I have for my 323. Having just purchased it the week before Thanksgiving, I've already run into the "common" wet rear floorboards, a massive power-steering leak and a cracked radiator neck. Now don't get me wrong, I love the car, but I would imagine that, for the difference in class/cache that comes along with the brand I would expect a little more by way of reliability/number of headaches. Thankfully, being a mechanic, I'll at least be able to avoid labor costs...
 

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Cause in point is the classic window regulator that breaks repeatedly on the same owner's cars. And I'm even surprised the aftermarket has not tackled this part too. Stewart did a new pump that has a much better track record than oem, and the increased price does not stop many of us from switching to it.
Stewart? Pump??? More info pls...

I just bought an 03 325xi, 158k, pig in a poke, from a dealer auction. It looks pretty well maintained, hardly a lick of rust, but sunroof switch just clicks, needs 1 rear shock, ran out of fuel at 1/4 tank, so needs new pump.

I read all 3 pages of this thread, and wonder which brand part to use. I don't need no stinkin China JUNK! WP is seeping too. I guess I should do a rad? maybe it's already been changed? I'll look for a date code. and oil separator? I guess it's hard to get to?

I'll go back and read the 1st page... And what else do I own? Several Suburban's., all 3/4 ton 4x4 diesels, and several Corvairs...
 

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So Stewart is a WP? I looked at different WP's offerd from BMA Auto Parts, I hope the link mentions the brand to buy, they were all abbreviated. And radiator recommendations? I wonder if the imminent cracking of the rad is visible? Are the replacements any better? I'll put just a few thous miles on this car per year if that, it's really a spare, like my Hyundai was. What's the PN for the "F" connector?

It would be nice if the vendor would indicate the origin of the part, so we'd know that China junk is on the way. Some vendors say "USA", but some parts also mark several possible counties of origin, like "Canada USA Taiwan or Korea". And I'm talking a serpentine belt of simple product, not something like a toaster that may contain multiple parts. I noticed the BMA site FP is ONLY VDO, I guess they've had their bad experiences w off brands, but AIRTEX is good, not offered?

I just peeked at "Mango's" page, and see BEHR mentioned as the Rad of choice... so much to look at!

Are the suspension bushings similar to USA style cars, press in w vice or hydraulic press, or Japanese style finger (pressure) fit, just held (squished) in w retaining bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So Stewart is a WP? I looked at different WP's offerd from BMA Auto Parts, I hope the link mentions the brand to buy, they were all abbreviated. And radiator recommendations? I wonder if the imminent cracking of the rad is visible? Are the replacements any better? I'll put just a few thous miles on this car per year if that, it's really a spare, like my Hyundai was. What's the PN for the "F" connector?

It would be nice if the vendor would indicate the origin of the part, so we'd know that China junk is on the way. Some vendors say "USA", but some parts also mark several possible counties of origin, like "Canada USA Taiwan or Korea". And I'm talking a serpentine belt of simple product, not something like a toaster that may contain multiple parts. I noticed the BMA site FP is ONLY VDO, I guess they've had their bad experiences w off brands, but AIRTEX is good, not offered?

I just peeked at "Mango's" page, and see BEHR mentioned as the Rad of choice... so much to look at!

Are the suspension bushings similar to USA style cars, press in w vice or hydraulic press, or Japanese style finger (pressure) fit, just held (squished) in w retaining bolt?
Can google to get: http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=BMWHPWP

Behr is good for 100K miles.

CAB's are press in.

Plenty of oem here: http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_E46_3_Series_Parts_s/1966.htm
 

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I tinkered with my xi again today... A bit of junk to go thru to get to the fine German engineering...

Vid'll be up in a few, saving now

It's about 10-11 min mark...
 

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cool thread stinger! Makes me nervous about the few things I didnt do; however, I did most of these maintenace items :eeps: :craig::rofl:
I feel like I should do a trans flush on my auto, but then again, I dont know if replacing the filter and fuild makes it worst. Its a 50/50 deal. So, what to do? let it die and get a new 5 or 6 spd; which is like 2 mods in 1, because 3.38:1 with a manual is cool.:evil:, or take care of it (try to keep the auto trans healthy/ which I must admit I like, and get my 3.91:1 gears). It's not an exotic, but close :D.
:craig::craig::craig:
Still thinking lol!
 

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I think you're a bit paranoid. Just drive it, and pay attention. These aren't exotic cars, just "needy" cars. The cooling system needs periodic replacement. Other than that, it's a "normal" car. If you want the best handling, then the suspension needs periodic replacement. Just drive it, and pay attention. The car will tell you what it needs.
 

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I been thinking this one through, and think a 3.91:1 from an '04 X3 will make me very happy. Thank you Kpeng and the bokchoy boy for the info.
Just as happy as having a hood scoop. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
It's about 10-11 min mark...

Key you want is only from the dealer with ownership and identity proof. Maybe 175 depending upon dealer.

You almost had the fuses in the glove box. Turn the two tabs and it will swing down.

You were handling the secondary air pump and calling it the Crankcase Vent Valve. That is on the other side under the intake manifold. I did not find it that hard compared to other's fears.

You were pushing the lock button on your remote key when trying to unlock the car. The unlock is the most forward button. Try all three to see what they do.

Secondary Air Valve is between number 1 and #12.
 

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Thx fer the tips Stinger... Was there 3 (key) buttons? Am I blind???

And what's a secondary air valve??? When I was a kid in the 70's, I would tear all this stuff off my folks, neighbors and friends cars, and boy would they run better and FASTER after my treatment! I even figured out how to get more supercharger boost from my brothers new Bonneville SSEI by putting a ball bearing into the overlimit actuator vacum hose!

So what's with the $20-50 keys on ebay? $175 is awful steep. I can live without the push buttons.

So is the CCVV the one that traps the oil fume crud and I saw broken open somewhere in this forum? Is that the one that has the potential vacuum leak? I really need to get invited to a BBQ or get together and meet you guys and have you poke around my car, I feel so lost! I sure wish it was a stick tho... and thx for watching the vid
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thx fer the tips Stinger... Was there 3 (key) buttons? Am I blind???

So what's with the $20-50 keys on ebay? $175 is awful steep. I can live without the push buttons.

So is the CCVV the one that traps the oil fume crud and I saw broken open somewhere in this forum? Is that the one that has the potential vacuum leak? I really need to get invited to a BBQ or get together and meet you guys and have you poke around my car, I feel so lost! I sure wish it was a stick tho... and thx for watching the vid
Three buttons on my key. I thought I saw same on yours. Could be wrong. Lock, Unlock, Trunk.

CCV separates oil from air. Feeds air back into manifold and drains oil down to crankcase.

I believe the cheap keys will not start your car.
I gave you a low number. Some dealers have quoted $500! Cheats.
 

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So what the h*ll are the ebay vendors selling? door keys? souvenirs??? I understand the keys have a chip in them that has to be programmed, but I've bot the occasional POS from ebay
 

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List price on a three button key from the dealer as of last year was $163.69 but you need to bring your title to the dealer and wait a couple weeks to get it.
You can cheap out and buy a service key w/o buttons and it's $47.55 dealer list.
Join BMWCCA and get a 15% discount.
The car will program the key. There's a sequence of things to do to make it happen but it's pretty simple like turning the key three times in succession or some such. Your dealer should do it for free when the keys come in. If someone is quoting you $500 for a key they're trying to scare and gouge you. It's BS - go elsewhere.
If you're finding cheap (<$100) three button keys on flea-bay you're right, they probably won't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
List price on a three button key from the dealer as of last year was $163.69 but you need to bring your title to the dealer and wait a couple weeks to get it.
You can cheap out and buy a service key w/o buttons and it's $47.55 dealer list.
Join BMWCCA and get a 15% discount.
The car will program the key. There's a sequence of things to do to make it happen but it's pretty simple like turning the key three times in succession or some such. Your dealer should do it for free when the keys come in. If someone is quoting you $500 for a key they're trying to scare and gouge you. It's BS - go elsewhere.
If you're finding cheap (<$100) three button keys on flea-bay you're right, they probably won't work.
+1
But is not the service key made from plastic that will wear out in short order? Made for occasion use only?
 

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I just sent an email to an ebay vendor for USA keys, or at least cut in USA keys. the other ebay stuff was shipped from China. I've had decent luck w some of the shipped from China stuff
 
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