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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had my rotors and pads replaced on my ZHP, as well as have the brake fluid replaced, and now I have to press my brake pedal almost all the way down for them to start working.:tsk: The guy who put the rotors on also put the drilled/slotted rotors on backwards (left of the right side and vice-versa).:banghead: Does anyone know a way to fix this or if this problem might have to do with the placement of the rotors? FYI, Im getting the rotors fixed tomorrow.

Thanks for any help.
 

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he didn't do a very good job replacing brake fluid. time to bleed them again.
 

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also drilled ftl.
 

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2016 340i xD 6-spd
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I just had my rotors and pads replaced on my ZHP, as well as have the brake fluid replaced, and now I have to press my brake pedal almost all the way down for them to start working.:tsk: The guy who put the rotors on also put the drilled/slotted rotors on backwards (left of the right side and vice-versa).:banghead: Does anyone know a way to fix this or if this problem might have to do with the placement of the rotors? FYI, Im getting the rotors fixed tomorrow.

Thanks for any help.
You should get everything fixed tomorrow. The slots going the wrong way are not the issue.
 

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Brakes need to be bled again. It's not uncommon to have to do it several times.
Though it should be uncommon that a mechanic doesn't know how to bleed brakes.

As a diyer, that's one thing. As a shop, that didn't drive the car or at least push the pedal down...not good at all.
 

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If the shop couldn't put the rotors on correctly, I can understand them not bleeding them correctly. It also depends if lines were changed or if they let the fluid level get too low while bleeding. I've always bled them then drive the vehicle to get the air out then refill the MC and do it again.

I'd rather have a shop do it thoroughly than just put a power bleeder on and call it a day.
 

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If the shop couldn't put the rotors on correctly, I can understand them not bleeding them correctly. It also depends if lines were changed or if they let the fluid level get too low while bleeding. I've always bled them then drive the vehicle to get the air out then refill the MC and do it again.

I'd rather have a shop do it thoroughly than just put a power bleeder on and call it a day.
OP, before you start the car next, just pump the brake pedal until, maybe, it becomes firm. Then start the car and see what you get. If that doesn't work and the shop has an issue getting rid of the mushy feel, then it's likely the brake fluid level dropped too low in the reservoir and air got in the ABS system. In that case, the shop needs software to cycle the abs to bleed it...from what I know. If it's just a local garage, it might not have this software.

And Thotful, you're right, the shop messed up the rotors...unless OP was wrong about that. I don't like rotors that are like women myself, so never had that issue!

Out of curiosity, if anyone knows, how would reversing slotted/drilled rotors affect their performance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, thank you everyone. I'll look into getting the system bled again, it's just hard because I'm at school now. Should I go to the local BMW dealer (BMW of Gainesville) or should I look for another mechanic? The last place I went had more than thirty great reviews, so I'm hesitant to go someplace other than the dealer.
 

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Try the bedding procedure on Stoptech's website first. New pads will feel mushy and have no bite until they are bedded in. Then bleed if the pedal still feels mushy.
 

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Try the bedding procedure on Stoptech's website first. New pads will feel mushy and have no bite until they are bedded in. Then bleed if the pedal still feels mushy.
x2

Also, I would do a Vacuum Bleed. Can borrow the tool from Autozone for 55 bux and will be refunded once tool has been return.

[email protected]
 
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