[io14]

All

After changing my Valve Cover Gasket ( It was toast) I asked my self what else can I do ?
Oil Filter housing gasket is fine so I started to check the vacuum lines. The hose that runs from the air pump that goes all the back behind the intake manifold was suspect.
The last 4 inches of vacuum hose behind the intake manifold just crumbled in my hand.
It's been 14-15 years I believe on some of these vacuum line hoses so just a little heads up on a "15 year old part or parts "
$1 for 2 feet of vacuum line what a bargain !

 

[BaliDawg]

I like to use this hi-temp silicone vacuum hose.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AUSRXS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YYdkCbXE5YWBV

 

[io14]

well the replacement of the vacuum lines behind the intake manifold continues: The hoses on the check valve were toast so using a led small light with a mirror I was able to finally get the hose off. Both pieces of the hose were gone like a charcoal briquet. My question is with out removing the intake manifold ( way too much work for this) anyone have other ideas ?
I don't have big hands so I was able to get my fingers on the male nipples but it is really "working by braille" ??

 

[Ettinger]

You can replace the vacuum lines without removing the intake manifold.

The vacuum line that runs to the butterfly valve in your exhaust connects to port #1. You should replace the cap over the port labelled #2. The vacuum line running from your Kombi valve connects to the port on the electric control valve above the black/white check valve. Remove the cabin air filter housing (T30 screws) and the fuel rail cover (10mm nuts under each of the caps - don't drop these). You can run the vacuum line along the valve cover.

Hope this helps

 

[io14]

Thanks Ettinger, those are the hoses I'm talking about on the black / white check valve without taking the intake manifold off you need small hands and feel by hand, their isn't a whole lot of room behind there, firewall etc get my drift ??!!

 

[Ettinger]

With the cabin air filter housing and beauty covers removed, you should be able to get the vacuum lines fitted. Feel around and identify all of the ports in the photo above. If you can touch each of them, you can replace the lines/caps. I suggest you sort out the black/white check valve lines first. Take your time!

 

[LeverThis]

If you haven't already, remove the piece that the cabin air filter housing screws into at the firewall to give just a little more room. Two screws hold it in on each side, pull up and out. You may have to remove the plastic divider between the engine & the brake booster / master cylinder to get enough clearance.

 

[io14]

Thanks LeverThis ! I thought about the plastic divider removing that, didn't think about the cabin air filter housing screws at the firewall, good point. I have 1 more small hose to go ! Sooner or later the plastic coolant pipes will go then I'll no choice but to take the " Big Erector Set" apart.

 

[Ettinger]

Glad to hear you've made progress

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-bpIALNWSg

 

[Mango]

Vacuum hose's what?

 

[kburger]

im so pissed off. this is supposed to be easy? cant get my hand in there no matter how i position my body even laying on top of the engine. cannot push new vacuum hose coming from round check valve onto that square piece with 2 ports coming off it.

 

[LeverThis]

Thanks LeverThis ! I thought about the plastic divider removing that, didn't think about the cabin air filter housing screws at the firewall, good point. I have 1 more small hose to go ! Sooner or later the plastic coolant pipes will go then I'll no choice but to take the " Big Erector Set" apart.

Nice! I took all that out just to replace the vacuum port caps on back of intake on a friend's e46 recently. Need to go back in there to do the SAP vacuum lines as well. Not looking forward to it.

Kburger, to be clear remove cabin air filter housing AND the part the caf housing screws into, plus remove the plastic divider between intake & brake booster. Let's you get an elbow in there plus a little more space in front of firewall.

 

[Spannerhead]

If you haven't already, remove the piece that the cabin air filter housing screws into at the firewall to give just a little more room. Two screws hold it in on each side, pull up and out. You may have to remove the plastic divider between the engine & the brake booster / master cylinder to get enough clearance.

Yes, I had to do all this to get enough room to service that hose. Pain in the rear.

To remove the brake booster divider, I swung the brake booster hose up out of the way and also disconnected the harness in the DME box so I could move that out of the way also.

With an SAP delete, I'm SO glad I don't have to deal with that area of the engine any more.

 

[Ettinger]

You may find it helpful to wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end of the vacuum line, creating a "tab" to hold onto. Lean over the driver's side fender and feel around for the nipple on the electric valve, seat the end of the vacuum line, and carefully slide it on the rest of the way.

 

[kburger]

You may find it helpful to wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end of the vacuum line, creating a "tab" to hold onto. Lean over the driver's side fender and feel around for the nipple on the electric valve, seat the end of the vacuum line, and carefully slide it on the rest of the way.

excellent ettinger will do. Thanks everyone for the help. I've done this before on my e46 this is our other e46. The large fuel line for the fuel rail is right there making it impossible. Not about to remove the fuel rail the small bolts for fuel rail are really hard too been there done that. So i'll wrap the end of the vacuum line with some electrical tape split in half hopefully that will help. I would love to get an ecu/ecm ms43 with both secondary air injection and EWS deleted without spending a ton of $, anyone got a link? thanks

 

[Spannerhead]

excellent ettinger will do. Thanks everyone for the help. I've done this before on my e46 this is our other e46. The large fuel line for the fuel rail is right there making it impossible. Not about to remove the fuel rail the small bolts for fuel rail are really hard too been there done that. So i'll wrap the end of the vacuum line with some electrical tape split in half hopefully that will help. I would love to get an ecu/ecm ms43 with both secondary air injection and EWS deleted without spending a ton of $, anyone got a link? thanks

https://www.kasselperformance.com/product/bmw-e46-323i-328i-e39-528i-m54-m52tu-ms42-tuning/

 

[BaliDawg]

I would love to get an ecu/ecm ms43 with both secondary air injection and EWS deleted without spending a ton of $, anyone got a link?

You can flash in the factory EU2 DME software using WinKFP to get the SAP and post cat delete.

Or, you can unlock the DME altogether to get the above, plus EWS delete, and more.
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS43

 

[kburger]

You can flash in the factory EU2 DME software using WinKFP to get the SAP and post cat delete.

Or, you can unlock the DME altogether to get the above, plus EWS delete, and more.
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Siemens_MS43

balidawg thanks. what about ews delete?

 

[kburger]

ok this is dangerous dont blame me if you break it. Not sure exactly how that little electrical box with the 2 tiny vacuum hoses mounts to the intake manifold. I carefully pulled on it until the whole think separated from the intake manifold. So now it floats freely back there easiest way to put hoses on it. Hope i didnt break it.

 

[Ettinger]

kburger, feel around on the electric valve to see if the clip is still intact. The electric valve clips on to the intake manifold and locks into place, slid toward the passenger's side until secure. This photo shows that clip & the "install" orientation: