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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2006 E46 M3 convertible 6 speed with 44k miles that I have owned for a few years. The car was sourced from EAG. I would like to upgrade the sway bars to flatten out some of the body roll in the twisties. I do not track the car, and really don’t want to effect the ride of the car. Recommendations?

Doug
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I personnaly got eibach front and rear on my 325ci, which is the most extrem you could go (30mm/21mm) i think.

It makes the ride stiffer, harsher, but sharper.

Get powerflex poly bushes for both sway bars and replace end links, to start with ?
I mean, for an M3 to have roll, either you're sensitive to it, or suspension components are bad.

I've seen case where people would feel the car wobbeling and thought it was roll. After bushings overall, they car was planted !
 

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I would be concerned that anything changed from oem could effect the price.
He is probably not buying a car to keep it pristine for the NEXT OWNER, he wants to enjoy it for HIMSELF. If you buy a car and only think about resell price, either sell it right now, or don't drive it.

EDIT : plus sway bars could be put back to stock with little effort.
 

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The swaybar "upgrade" is a compromise, not an upgrade as such.
The thicker bar will resist roll, but more strongly couple the corners.
With a thicker bar, At lower speeds, a corner hitting a bump or pot hole will transmit more energy to the opposite corner. So more percieved shock could be felt through the chassis.
It's up to your personal preference.
 

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The swaybar "upgrade" is a compromise, not an upgrade as such.
The thicker bar will resist roll, but more strongly couple the corners.
With a thicker bar, At lower speeds, a corner hitting a bump or pot hole will transmit more energy to the opposite corner. So more percieved shock could be felt through the chassis.
It's up to your personal preference.
that's why I recommended checking bushings, and replacing only the endlinks+bushings at first.
Cannot say if you could get the same result with a healthy chassis (new parts) and oem bars, but I think it would be very close.
 

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If he bought it from enthusiast auto then he paid top dollar for a very good car. They generally only sell top shelf cars so driving it lot is going to drive down value. Your not going to drive the heck out of a 15+ year old car you paid top dollar for. Otherwise he could have bought something much cheaper made upgrades and then drove it and have cash in his pocket.
 

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If he bought it from enthusiast auto then he paid top dollar for a very good car. They generally only sell top shelf cars so driving it lot is going to drive down value. Your not going to drive the heck out of a 15+ year old car you paid top dollar for. Otherwise he could have bought something much cheaper made upgrades and then drove it and have cash in his pocket.
he drove 13k miles in a year and half. Some people buy pristine car and actually drive them.

Plus american market is pretty low compared to the rest of the world, and even more compared to the average income per people.
nearly 22k USD for the cheapest running (LHD) m3 in France, + 700$ tax. and it has 130k miles. (it is modded, mecanically sorted and manual swapped tho)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would leave it. You probably paid top dollar for the car from eag and it is a great ride. I would be concerned that anything changed from oem could effect the price.
What I paid EAG is less than it’s currently worth. But that’s besides the point. I bought it to drive it. I just wanted to start out with a pristine car that I didn’t have to immediately refurbish to enjoy. And since I drive it with local BMW clubs to destinations unknown, I want it to handle a bit better in the twisties, where it has a bit more body roll than I would like.
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
He is probably not buying a car to keep it pristine for the NEXT OWNER, he wants to enjoy it for HIMSELF. If you buy a car and only think about resell price, either sell it right now, or don't drive it.

EDIT : plus sway bars could be put back to stock with little effort.
That’s my thinking. I keep my cars very nice, but I do drive them. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
If he bought it from enthusiast auto then he paid top dollar for a very good car. They generally only sell top shelf cars so driving it lot is going to drive down value. Your not going to drive the heck out of a 15+ year old car you paid top dollar for. Otherwise he could have bought something much cheaper made upgrades and then drove it and have cash in his pocket.
Everyone thinks that EAG charges so much more than the car is actually worth. What you’re forgetting is that every mechanical system is brought up to OEM spec. It it needs service it’s done, usually early, tires, done, brakes, done, cosmetic issues, fixed. Every EAG car I have ever seen, and I’ve bought two cars from them, is at least a nice number 2 condition car when delivered. Sure, I can buy a lesser quality car with a lot more mileage for less, that probably needs a major service, tires, cosmetic correction, etc. and that’s if all is disclosed by the seller. That could easily be $5000 plus, and a lot of time. I don’t see that as something that I want to do. Especially on a car that’s already expensive to maintain. I buy nice low milage cars that need nothing, and then I drive them, and keep them in pristine condition.
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Sure. That's the way to do it. I bought mine before they got thrashed (still under warranty), and I paid a premium. 12 years on, this car has been very easy to live with, as have the others, which let me spend time and money on a classic while I could (parts becoming NLA but now it's up to spec like the newer ones). EAG was $15k over what I paid back then, but that's a digression.

I'm really interested in your original question, owning a vert myself.

Cheers,

maw
 

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The M3 vert got the thickest OE sway bars for USA E46.
27mm front
21.5mm rear

In Europe the M3 CSL got these.
30.8mm front
22.5mm rear

Hotchkis
30mm front

Whiteline
30mm front

Eibach
29mm front

H&R
30mm front
25mm rear
 

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Thanks for reminding me @Bali... as I was going through the list of CSL parts I might want (having given up on the L with a vert), the sway bars were just about it. For the money, I thought those were about everything that made sense.

maw
 

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FWIW, FCPEuro has these OE M3 CSL sway bars on closeout pricing.
Do any of the fancy front strut bars help with this? Dinan, Racing Dynamics, Megan?

@DBaliko if you don’t have proof that the rear struts have been replaced, you might do that as well. I did mine before 75k miles when they weren’t showing any visible signs (right around the 10-12 year mark). New ones (OEM) made WORLDS of difference. So if you’re not satisfied with the rear end, I’d wager those are more significant a replacement than sway bars. I know people don’t volunteer that kind of money until they’re clunky or leaking, but these were gone way before either. Mechanic test drive found that one.

maw
 

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Thank you Bali for the info. Choose mine based on an old thread about sway bars and vert already have thick ones.

From what I've research, getting a combo front/back is better than get 30 front and that's it, except if you want to change the way it turns drastically (independant from roll).

Though Eibach were 30 though. From what you have, either you get H&R or CSL ones. Not much choice here.

But, you have another solution : stiffer suspension like B8 or coilovers which would reduces roll too, with good compromise (won't be much harsher).

As maw1124 have stated, your strut are probably worn. Mileage is a number for the engine, but years count. Obviously suspension components and bushings didn't work a lot, but they are still 20 years old. Your roll might come from something getting old and mushy( like struts). IMHO nowadays a 20+ year old pristine car isn't just sub 50k miles, but have been maintained based on mileage AND age. Lot of components will be worn out, but that's digression.
 

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the CSL bars would be a good choice. but you have a heavy cabrio. not a lightweight coupe. so those CSL bars which were selected for the CSL aren’t necessarily the best set-up for the cabrio.
if you go H&R you have adjustability. if knowledgeable and “in tune” with cars handling you can set it up to your liking. but then you’re more concerned with roll, and that’s another component of handling.
 
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