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OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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I posted a lot of info in this thread.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=584853&page=7

Basically if you have to swap the input flange(one that connects to the driveshaft) when installing in a 330. you'll need the new locking plate for the nut.
the stock 3.46 going into a 325 or 323 that front flange doesn't need to be swapped.

now the other seals don't need to be replaced. but it's one of those things that it's best done now while it's out for cheap insurance. because if a seal is shot and you need to replace. you're doing to have to drop the whole diff and reinstall once again. when people swap the flanges on the input and the outputs(side where the halfshafts connect) it can get pinched. so often it's a very good choice for them. there is also the drain and fill plug's washer. bmw lists these as not reuseable. i have never known anyone to have a problem reusing. but i have always just bought them and they are cheap.
if you buy the bmw diff seal kit, it use to come with the diff cover's paper gasket. but now that part is NLA. i tried and tried to source one when i did my TMS LSD. so bmw now says to just use a thin gel/film gasket. but unless you are taking off the diff cover for some reason, you don't need to worry about that cover gasket anyway.
when i order these, i always suggest buy one or two of the torx head bolts for the cv joint flange. people no matter how careful they are, seem to stip these because of the angle. and you're better off having an extra $1.50 bolt if needed while under there than need it and not have access to the dealership.
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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just want to confirm that I can get the locking plate from the dealer?

:bow:
I bought a couple less than 5 months ago. I don't see why not. :dunno:

It's just a cupped washer with a recessed area cutout in the hex shape of the nut.
 

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I bought a couple less than 5 months ago. I don't see why not. :dunno:

It's just a cupped washer with a recessed area cutout in the hex shape of the nut.
:bow:

thank you!
 

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OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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also to add, not sure if the kit comes with new circlips for the output flanges. i had them from another job. so not sure if you guys would need those when swapping the flanges. i really don't think so, but i'd hate for you to get into the job and not have them. so i'm not the last word on the info. maybe check the DIY forum about the job if others don't chime in.
 

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Think I have the seals all figured out, but Im unsure as to the bolts I need....this seems pretty dang complex (for me at least)

:eek:
 

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cool...thanks again!!

I posted a lot of info in this thread.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=584853&page=7

Basically if you have to swap the input flange(one that connects to the driveshaft) when installing in a 330. you'll need the new locking plate for the nut.
the stock 3.46 going into a 325 or 323 that front flange doesn't need to be swapped.

now the other seals don't need to be replaced. but it's one of those things that it's best done now while it's out for cheap insurance. because if a seal is shot and you need to replace. you're doing to have to drop the whole diff and reinstall once again. when people swap the flanges on the input and the outputs(side where the halfshafts connect) it can get pinched. so often it's a very good choice for them. there is also the drain and fill plug's washer. bmw lists these as not reuseable. i have never known anyone to have a problem reusing. but i have always just bought them and they are cheap.
if you buy the bmw diff seal kit, it use to come with the diff cover's paper gasket. but now that part is NLA. i tried and tried to source one when i did my TMS LSD. so bmw now says to just use a thin gel/film gasket. but unless you are taking off the diff cover for some reason, you don't need to worry about that cover gasket anyway.
when i order these, i always suggest buy one or two of the torx head bolts for the cv joint flange. people no matter how careful they are, seem to stip these because of the angle. and you're better off having an extra $1.50 bolt if needed while under there than need it and not have access to the dealership.
 

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Think I have the seals all figured out, but Im unsure as to the bolts I need....this seems pretty dang complex (for me at least)

:eek:
:rofl: you'll do fine... don't worry..

@ Alex: :bow:

edit: looks like the seal kit is about $20 more expensive than buying its parts separately. Am I missing something here? :hmm:

edit 2: nevermind, I was missing the fact that there are 2 output flanges... the seal kit plus the locking plate will suffice (I guess the latter is also called "pinion seal")... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thx, but according to kpeng the input flanges only need to changed on the 330s if upgrading to a 3.91 ie auto, not a manual 3.46.


I posted a lot of info in this thread.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=584853&page=7

Basically if you have to swap the input flange(one that connects to the driveshaft) when installing in a 330. you'll need the new locking plate for the nut.
the stock 3.46 going into a 325 or 323 that front flange doesn't need to be swapped.

now the other seals don't need to be replaced. but it's one of those things that it's best done now while it's out for cheap insurance. because if a seal is shot and you need to replace. you're doing to have to drop the whole diff and reinstall once again. when people swap the flanges on the input and the outputs(side where the halfshafts connect) it can get pinched. so often it's a very good choice for them. there is also the drain and fill plug's washer. bmw lists these as not reuseable. i have never known anyone to have a problem reusing. but i have always just bought them and they are cheap.
if you buy the bmw diff seal kit, it use to come with the diff cover's paper gasket. but now that part is NLA. i tried and tried to source one when i did my TMS LSD. so bmw now says to just use a thin gel/film gasket. but unless you are taking off the diff cover for some reason, you don't need to worry about that cover gasket anyway.
when i order these, i always suggest buy one or two of the torx head bolts for the cv joint flange. people no matter how careful they are, seem to stip these because of the angle. and you're better off having an extra $1.50 bolt if needed while under there than need it and not have access to the dealership.
 

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thx, but according to kpeng the input flanges only need to changed on the 330s if upgrading to a 3.91 ie auto, not a manual 3.46.
we need to change the input flanges. don't worry about what kpeng did in his swap, ours is different...
 

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I went to the dealer to get the input and output flange seals today.. Price: $75 for all three separately :yikes: and the "seal kit" did not even show up on the computer. Just got the washers and the locking plate... I won't be spending $75 for the seals for a diff that cost $150 :rolleyes:
 

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I went to the dealer to get the input and output flange seals today.. Price: $75 for all three separately :yikes: and the "seal kit" did not even show up on the computer. Just got the washers and the locking plate... I won't be spending $75 for the seals for a diff that cost $150 :rolleyes:
Im getting ready to go the dealer to get the parts as well.....

How much did the washers and the locking plate cost you?
 

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Im getting ready to go the dealer to get the parts as well.....

How much did the washers and the locking plate cost you?
not even worth mentioning.. $3 something..
 

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not even worth mentioning.. $3 something..
awesome

so, I will hopefully get the right parts lol

I think I can handle it
 

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I went to the dealer to get the input and output flange seals today.. Price: $75 for all three separately :yikes: and the "seal kit" did not even show up on the computer. Just got the washers and the locking plate... I won't be spending $75 for the seals for a diff that cost $150 :rolleyes:
Just curious....I got the dif, and am trying to figure out the need to purchase the locking/securing plate?

Anyone bother changing the shaft seal when they swap the flange?
 
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