2002 (7/02) 325i - 160k miles. I got her @ ~108k miles. I do not know if O2 sensors have ever been replaced.
I recently pulled the P0491/P0492 (secondary air injection system insufficient flow) codes.
I plan to replace the pre-cat O2 sensors, and then pull the intake to replace vacuum line, check valve and control valve.
While I am in there, I plan to replace the CCV, and thought I might as well replace the oil filter housing gasket as well. Intake gasket will get replaced at same time.
Anything else to do while I am under there?
I thought I remembered reading about a vacuum line mod to decrease oil consumption. She is consuming oil some way/where.
Starter is (more) accessible with the intake manifold off if you are into preventative maintenance.
Coolant hard pipes are good to do while there, they crumble at the ends and will start a slow leak, many replace them when under there even if you aren't actively leaking coolant.
Also change the vacuum caps on the back of the manifold... actually just replace every vacuum line you touch, they probably all need it.
Replace the dipstick tube O-ring, the one at the bottom that seals it to the oil pan. While you have the dipstick removed make sure to blow it out with air or brake clean, it can clog.
Speaking of vacuum caps, the vacuum line mod is called the "O2 Pilot Mod" and you can search for a thread here. Essentially you run a vacuum line from one of the unused capped vacuum ports on the back of the manifold to the port on the CCV diaphragm. I did this when I dove under the intake and believe it helped.
For this job I highly recommend heading to Youtube and searching for the user 50sKid, he has a lot of fantastic E46 content and if you want his 2 part CCV replacement videos you will be able to follow him as he removes the intake manifold and touches a lot of the pieces you will need to interact with.
I did find the 50sKid videos on YouTube when I did the CCV a year or so ago - you are right, they are nice and detailed. I cleaned the dipstick tube (double-walled) when I had it out.
Are the coolant rubes difficult to replace? I am guessing I lose a lot of coolant in the process...
Take a look at your Vanos oil line (or buy it and the crush washers and return if not needed).
Probably only need the o ring for crankshaft sensor but definitely do OFHG
Disa o ring, throttle body gasket, and air distributor o rings. So cheap there is no reason not to.
Replace all vacuum hoses
Thanks all, just got my big box of parts from FCP Euro, now need to wait until I can get a free moment w/ hopefully warm weather to get at this project.
A friend had the insufficient flow code come up on his dad's e39 with the the m54b30. It was the vacuum line from the back of the intake to the valve in the exhaust manifold. Fixed that, cleared the code and it hasn't been back since.
I just did this on my 2004 with 195k. I did the full replace of everything under the IM.
- All coolant hoses (Hard, Soft, to/from the Heater cord)
- Camshaft Position sensors
- Temp Sensors (Coolant and oil)
- All VAC Hoses for EGR
- All VAC Hoses from IM to Jet pump to the Brake booster
- All VAC Hoses to the intake
- Intake boots
- Clean ICV and Throttle
- OFHG (Done earlier)
- Starter
- Gaskets
- ICV Grommet
- Intake Caps on back (my car does not have anything in the back so all ports are capped)
- Oil Dipstick ORing
- Fuel line regulator short small hose to F connector
- O-rings on Air Distribution
- O-rings on Injectors (Top/Bottom)
- Cleaned the IM with Purple SuperClean from Walmart in a large tubby (did really good job cleaning all the gunk/dirt on the IM)
- CLEANED all the stuff that was nasty/dirty under the IM/Car
I have those. They are the wires that send the O2 Sensor data back to the DME. I do not like that they are in front of the hose. I have them neatly tucked behind the new hoses.
I used a 3/8 in box wrench to get the bolt closer to the engine it came off fairly easily but I did have to add some leverage (pipe) over the wrench to get it loose
I used the eTorx to get the other bolt (removed the engine/body brace [big silver metal part under the tranny] to get access
Long set of extensions and swivel to get to the bolt, did not need the swivel but it made it easier
I hesitated to do it but after seeing the stuff you need to remove to get to it and after 195k it was a no brainer.
I used a 3/8 in box wrench to get the bolt closer to the engine it came off fairly easily but I did have to add some leverage (pipe) over the wrench to get it loose
I used the eTorx to get the other bolt (removed the engine/body brace [big silver metal part under the tranny] to get access
Long set of extensions and swivel to get to the bolt, did not need the swivel but it made it easier
I hesitated to do it but after seeing the stuff you need to remove to get to it and after 195k it was a no brainer.
And I should mention that I do feel validated about this maintenance task once I felt the poor condition of the vacuum tubing at the air pump - it just broke apart:
Nice work, its pretty satifying once its all done. Btw, did you replace the vacuum lines on the other end at the SAP check valve & control solenoid behind the intake manifold? Those looked a little suspect as well, especially the "flared" one in the picture above.
I am planning on replacing those lines at the check valve and solenoid, plus adding the PilotO2 mod.
Can you clarify what you mean about the flared one? Not following you...
QUOTE: I am trying to understand what you mean by "big silver part under tranny"?
Its the engine support brace. I always thought it was something not to be messed with but a while back someone said just remove it.. its not a big deal. You can drive the car but i dont without it for support.
QUOTE: I am trying to understand what you mean by "big silver part under tranny"?
Its the engine support brace. I always thought it was something not to be messed with but a while back someone said just remove it.. its not a big deal. You can drive the car but i dont without it for support.
I used a flex-head ratcheting 3/8" wrench to loosen the starter bolts from the top. You will need to use a second box wrench hooked to the top to get leverage
I used closed-end, flexible-head ratcheting wrench for both bolts, but I also detached the transmission mount and lowered it. I tightened the bolts on assembly from the top, and torqued them from underneath with 4 feet of extensions (the last one had a wiggle head).
Just did this this past weekend.
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