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166K views 322 replies 81 participants last post by  Tbone8ty  
#1 · (Edited)
BMW E46 M3 restoration

Over the past year and a half my 2003 E46 M3 has suffered the worst kind of neglect, sitting unused. Worst still it has been sitting outside and time and New Englad weather has taken it's toll. The toll has been rust, rust in a big nasty, four letter way. The time has come to take action!

This restoration is now months in the making. It all started out with as a simple project with my friends at BimmerWorld to refresh the M3 for the spring. The spring came and went but my car didn't. Sitting firmly on it's winter tires occasionally getting taken around the block or to the store. Little did I realize just how busy my summer would be and just how bad my poor M3 had become.

This thread will chronicle the return to greatness of my M3. With 100K miles on the clock it will never be a new car but by the end every major system will have been replaced, renewed or recovered to give me another 100K miles. The major restoration points include:
  • Derustification of everything
  • Complete front suspension overhaul
  • Complete rear suspension overhaul
  • Complete brake overhaul
  • Complete fluid refresh
  • New wheels and tires
  • 4 wheel alignment
  • S54 valve adjustment

This isn't going to be an open the wallet and promise you first born child build with no expense spared. It is a common sense, replace what you must, restore what you can enthusiast build! Aftermarket parts will be used where the cost makes sense, OEM parts will be replaced when rusted and expensive parts will be salvaged and restored.

Subscribe to get updates as I make progress, get parts in, screw up or find something else that needs replacing. Lets get into the nitty gritty and get going.

How it started
The rear suspension is to blame for this transforming this from a few DIYs into a massive rebuild project. In the spring of 2013 I noticed the lower rear trailing arm ball joints (part 3 below) had gone bad. While replacing the lower joint it also makes sense to replace the upper joint as well (part 2 below).

BMW E46 M3 rear trailing arm ball joints

BimmerWorld supplied me with the new ball joints and Mango, the resident maintenance guru, lent me his awesome $500 rear ball joint tool. With parts and tools in hand you're looking at a 2 hour tops job. I dive into the project and am assaulted by the first onslaught of rust. The entire rear rotor, caliper and caliper bracket are a disaster.

BMW E46 M3 rusty rotor

My heart breaks a little seeing this, but I have a job to do so I plow on with the rear ball joint project. Little did I know the entire scope of this project was about to change. I dig deeper in and the rust just keeps on coming. The pictures do not do justice for how much rust has taken hold of the car. By the time I get down to the dust shield I know I can't let this go and something drastic must be done.

BMW E46 M3 dust shield

The dust shields are more rust then metal, they must be replaced. When I made the decision to replace them I didn't realize that meant removing the rear hubs and replacing the wheel bearings. But it must be done, my anger at the rust was driving irrational decision making at this point. I get a beer and hatch a plan to replace or restore everything that is rusty. The following is the result of several beers and lots of emails with BimmerWorld about bringing my baby back to glory. The restoration has been broken out into the major mechanical systems.

Brakes
Rusty and neglected the entire brake system is being ripped out and replaced. A big brake kit was considered but this is a street car and while a set of Performance Friction, Brembo or StopTechs would look great the costs could not be justified. The stock M3 brakes are great for the street, they just needed to not look like they came from the bottom of the ocean.

BMW E46 M3 brake replacement

A set of used OEM M3 rotors from an E46Fanatics member was a cost effective way to get new rotors. The calipers are AutoZone Duralast rebuilds that will be painted black with G2 epoxy caliper paints, stainless steel brake lines from BimmerWorld replace the factory rubber lines and a new set of Performance Friction brake pads, also from BimmerWorld round out brake system.

The mounting brackets have been removed, sand blasted and painted with G2 Brake Caliper Paint. So far I've been extremely impressive with the G2 paint, stay tuned to see how it holds up over the winter. In the rear the rusty dust shields will be replaced with new OEM parts. Thankfully up front the rust is limited to the rotors, calipers and brackets so no additional parts are needed.

E46 M3 brakes painted

Front suspension
The E46 chassis is notorious for it's need of front end suspension maintenance. The control arm bushings are a constant replacement item and the ball joints on the control arms go out in 50K miles or less. New control arms from BimmerWorld and a set of new style (more on that later) Powerflex bushings take care of the main front end maintenance with an added bonus that Powerflex bushings are lifetime bushings and won't need replacing. The steering arm ball joints are also likely on the way out at 100K miles so those will be replaced as well.

The stock front struts are well past their prime so the springs and struts will be replaced with a set of Bilstein PSS10s. This is one of the few places I sprung for high end aftermarket parts. The E46 M3 is old and out dated in many regards but still a blast to drive because it is visceral. I wasn't going to skimp on parts that make the driving experience, and I've always wanted a set of coilovers.

Rear suspension
Starting with new upper and lower trailing arm ball joints this project has spiraled out of control. In the process of trying to remove the rusty ball joints I burnt and bent the factory lower arm and it now needs replacement. Replacing the arm requires removing the rear diff, making for another parts order and more wrenching. What I am going to replace the arms with is still to be determined. Look at how rusty the lower ball joint was. That is two pieces that have fused into one rusty mess.

BMW M3 rear trailing arm ball joints

With the diff coming out it will have the leaking output seals replaced and will be cleaned up. As I will have access to the upper control arm as well the inside bushing will also be replaced. At the front of the trailing arms the trailing arm bushings (RTAB) will be replaced with Powerflex poly bushings. All said and done every suspension bushing on the rear suspension will have been replaced. The handling improvement will be substantial.

As in the front the rear factory shock have seen 100K miles and are done. Billstein PSS10 springs and shocks will replace them. My nemesis rust was busy with the rear suspension as well, look at the condition of the rear spring.

BMW E46 M3 rear spring broken

As mentioned above the brake shields in the rear were completely rusted and will be replaced. That project requires the removal of the rear hubs so the rear wheel bearings are being replaced with OEM *** units from ECS Tuning.

Fluids
One of the easiest and most effective forms of maintenance is to keep your fluids in good shape. With this much work being done on the brakes a full brake fluid flush is a must. Brake fluid from BimmerWorld will complete the brake overhaul.

Under the hood I'm leaving the engine stock but all the fluids are being replaced. Red Line from BimmerWorld is my fluid of choice and it is going everywhere. 15W50 Red Line will keep the engine happy with a new OEM filter. Red Line power steering fluid to go with the suspension overall. In the middle the transmission is getting Red Line MT-90 as I have a UUC lightweight flywheel and clutch. Out back the diff gets Red Line 75w140.

Wheels and Tires
The factory 19"s are a great set of wheels but I wanted something to make this stand out as a modified M. Wheels are one of the easiest ways enthusiasts identify each other and I felt wheels were a must. I've been a huge fan of VMR wheels ever since getting one of the first sets of CLS style rims from them for my E46 330i almost 10 years ago.

VMR V710s

I ordered up a set of VMR V710s in 19x8.5" for the front and 19x9.5" for the rear finished in gun metal. Another place where I was willing to spend money, this was cosmetic but wheels make such a difference in appearance.

The VMRs are wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1s 245/35/19 in the front and 275/30/19 in the back.

BMW Toyo proxes T1s

Alignment and Service
After the entire suspension has been taken apart and put back together the alignment specs are going to be way off. The car will be professionally aligned at all four corners once there is a suspension to align. While in for the alignment I will also have the S54 valves adjusted.

Project Ongoing
Writing this out has me worried about just how much I have taken on with this project. None of these are on their own monumental DIYs but together this has become many nights and weekends of work. Many of my friends ask why I didn't have a shop do the work but to me as an enthusiasts this is the ultimate connection with my car. I know that when this is all done my M3 will be in the best shape it's been since leaving the factory and I can't wait to get behind the wheel again.

I am getting parts in constantly and will be updating this as I go. Subscribe to get updates as they happen.

Big, huge, this couldn't be done with out them, thanks to BimmerWorld, VMR and getBMWParts.com!
 
#2 ·
Re: Ultimate E46 restoration thread

Looks good Tim! Take care of your cars. What do you park in the garage?

[bimmerapp]
 
#3 ·
Good thread with lots of info and pics. This will be fun to follow.

One note... the rear dust shields are a pain to replace, as you mention, because the wheel bearings and hubs need to be removed to replace them. In case you are wondering why the front shields didn't rust, it's because of BMW's weight savings plan for the E46 (vs E36). BMW uses aluminum for the front brake shields! Awesome!

Those wheels look great. Perfect color.
 
#6 ·
Nice. Hope you have the harbor freight wheel bearing tool kit on standby (as I've advised WDE) as well as very heavy duty snap ring pliers for those snap rings. Harbor freight ones won't work =( I used two screwdrivers in a pinch after destroying the harbor freight snapring pliers...
 
#10 ·
+1 on that kit.
First bearing job done by shop, he hammered the crap out of the bearing. Destroyed in 2500 miles.
Second bearing, I jigged up the tool and installed. Crapped out in 6000 miles.
Third one, I used that HF tool. Took me 4 hours, but it was because the exhaust had to be dropped.
So, yah I went through 3 bearings in a year.
All F.A.G. bearings from BMA. BMA was really good on the replacements though.

Good luck man.
 
#11 ·
ahhh Tim, you should have popped this up in the New England section! I already have that HF front wheel bearing kit and am in Mass!

Subscribing to this baby so I can see where else the rust pops up.

No rust on the body panels at all? That is the thorn in the side of my existence now.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Ultimate E46 restoration thread



Another parts delivery thanks to Evan and Jason at www.getBMWparts.com! Lots of replacement bolts for the brakes and other odds and ends.

Sadly there is some rust on the body as well. That will be addressed. Not sure if that will happen before the winter or if I will wait until the spring. The way this project budget it growing I'll probably wait and do a couple more things in the spring while it is in the shop.


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#13 ·
Ahhh, nothing like a $100 bag of bolts! I had one of those when I tackled my wife's oil pan gasket. And boy was I glad I got so many new nuts and bolts! what is that piece in the lower left corner?
 
#14 ·
Yep and I have another box of bolts and bits coming that will be at least $150. I'm getting nutted and bolted to death on this project! I could reuse some of the nuts/bolts but at $1 or so each the peace of mind is worth it.

Lower left is brake line brackets. They're not as rusty as I thought but they were ~ $5 so I figured while I'm at it, might as well replace them.

Tim
 
#20 ·


Rear shock mounts and reinforcement plates. Another E46 common maintenance item that will be replaced. I got these parts from getBMWparts.com a couple years back and general maintenance. Finally getting to install them.

Tim


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#22 ·
View attachment 531658

Rear shock mounts and reinforcement plates. Another E46 common maintenance item that will be replaced. I got these parts from getBMWparts.com a couple years back and general maintenance. Finally getting to install them.

Tim


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
I'd highly advise against using stock mount designs on aftermarket dampers. I blew three stock design sets in 30k miles and finally went Rogue by installing Rogue Engineering mounts.
 
#21 ·
Hey Tim, check my signature and look at my rear wheel bearing post. In there you'll find the wrench sizes you need to operate the Harbor Freight bearing tool and a technique to press out the rear axle (similar to BMW special tool). Have fun, and get hydrated before your tackle the bearings, or you'll cramp up. I think I'd recommend replacing the HF bolt/nut/washers with some high grade stuff from McMasterCarr. Harder washers will at least make turning things easier.
 
#34 ·
I didn't feel the need to replace the HF bolt/nut/washers, especially based on the amount of time that set will be used. I did make sure to lube the bolt thoroughly while I was removing and installing the bearings and it never got super tight or hot from the friction... one MAJOR good suggestion for the rears is to use a hammer slide rather than crush the brake backing plate by trying to use the other puller method..

You should ban yourself for being the owner of this website and letting your car get that bad...

With that being said, you can always count on me to drive the car from time to time if you don't want it to sit there, rotting away, breaking many hearts.
You do that, and Imma take the Imolaovulationrot right behind you.

I think that is LoJack. Any thoughts on this being the source of the parasitic battery draw?

Tim
I had LoJack installed on my 330i when I bought it and I did not think it was tapped into the battery somehow. From what i understand, it was battery supplied only (like it had it's own battery) and after 6-8 years they recommend that in order for LoJack to keep working and protecting your car, you need to bring it to them for an inspection and the battery might need replacing. Inspection is $99 and I think you might even need to pay for a new battery too! So much for thinking that it's $600 out the door when you buy it and you're protected for life. BS. I've never found mine, so I can't comment on what it looks like, but I wouldn't think it was tapped into the power somehow..

Looks like that shock mount or the gasket below it failed in some way allowing dirt and water to enter inside causing it to rust the nuts. ouch. New shock mount nuts?

And I think you can tilt the diff downward to clear the bolts. at least you can on the non-M diff
The passenger side mount on my wife's wagon looked like that when I changed them earlier this year. It was due to the thin gasket being shot which then let in water and started to rust the nuts/bolts of the mount. It did not look nice and scared me.
 
#44 ·
You should ban yourself for being the owner of this website and letting your car get that bad...
:spit:




Keep it going Tim. If you get stuck with anything Mango will happily fly himself over to your place.
 
#26 ·


Anyone have a guess on what this thing is? It is taped and ziptied behind the trunk liner. The previous owner had LoJack installed. Is that what this is? The install is sort of ghetto. I have a parasitic batt drain, could it be from this? I wouldn't think LoJack would pull much power.

Tim


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