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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally had some free time to do this used cheap USB port adapter from fasttech and put it instead of unused torch. The best thing about this is when you lock the car the power gets cut unlike the power socket in the console. Also it looks almost OEM

Some pictures from the making :)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8ZbEPd1E8zjbpasG7

Also if anyone is interested I used this adapter https://www.fasttech.com/p/6054400
 

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This is slick! Nice work sir. I was considering retrofitting the flashlight, but why do that when you can power your phone which has a much better flashlight! Are those just generic connectors you used? The adapters states 3.1A. It wasn't clear if this was 3.1A for both ports = ~1.5A each, or 3.1A each. Any idea?
 

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I converted a flashlight. It involved cracking open the case and cutting out internal plastic. It's more work than you expect to make it look nice.

I need to do it for a third time, with a modern higher power adapter.

Almost every adapter I've bought has exaggerated the power output. Many really only put out 500mA or 700mA despite claiming 2.1A (or 3.1 or 4.2 amp). The best ones I've bought have a voltage/current display. They legitimately put out 2.1 amps, using a chip that does synchronous rectification for higher efficiency. (That means that they use a driven MOSFET instead of a freewheel diode.) You don't care about a display for inside the glovebox, but the display and dual USB port board is separate from the voltage conversion board.

BTW, typically both ports are wired together, so you can't draw more with two devices plugged in. That doesn't keep the sellers from simply lying.
 

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I converted a flashlight. It involved cracking open the case and cutting out internal plastic. It's more work than you expect to make it look nice.

I need to do it for a third time, with a modern higher power adapter.

Almost every adapter I've bought has exaggerated the power output. Many really only put out 500mA or 700mA despite claiming 2.1A (or 3.1 or 4.2 amp). The best ones I've bought have a voltage/current display. They legitimately put out 2.1 amps, using a chip that does synchronous rectification for higher efficiency. (That means that they use a driven MOSFET instead of a freewheel diode.) You don't care about a display for inside the glovebox, but the display and dual USB port board is separate from the voltage conversion board.

BTW, typically both ports are wired together, so you can't draw more with two devices plugged in. That doesn't keep the sellers from simply lying.
Good info @DBecker. This current iteration seems simple enough and solid enough to charge at least one device at a decent rate.

Appreciate the input @DBecker1!

Thanks for the idea! This was meant for @sawier
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is slick! Nice work sir. I was considering retrofitting the flashlight, but why do that when you can power your phone which has a much better flashlight! Are those just generic connectors you used? The adapters states 3.1A. It wasn't clear if this was 3.1A for both ports = ~1.5A each, or 3.1A each. Any idea?
The connector I used came with the adapter I just un-crimped them from the cable a put them instead of the flashlight connector. From what I read online its supposed to output 2.1A from one of the usb and 1A from the other. Unfortunately I can't test it. I have to buy some usb tester i've always wanted to know what current usb ports provide.
 

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The connector I used came with the adapter I just un-crimped them from the cable a put them instead of the flashlight connector. From what I read online its supposed to output 2.1A from one of the usb and 1A from the other. Unfortunately I can't test it. I have to buy some usb tester i've always wanted to know what current usb ports provide.
Thanks for the details @sawier. I think I'll pick one of these up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I saw this, but having no access to 3D printer my way seemed like better and cheaper option for everybody. If I could find female connector for the flashlight connector then it would be 100% reversible just by replacing the hole cover :)
 

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I wouldn't go to the effort before checking that the USB adapter actually outputs the required current.

USB load modules with two power resistors are about $1. Combined with a "USB detector" voltage and current meter you can do a quick check at 0.5 amp and 1.0 amp (assuming that the output stays at 5V, which it won't). Make it quick before you burn your fingers.

I quickly upgraded to an "electronic load". These are modules with a fan on top that have dropped in price to about $4.

I see that there are now modules that have both the load and a meter for about $9.
 
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