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Discussion Starter #61
Its been a while since last update
So More parts had to be ordered.
1) Intercooler piping + intercooler ( 3 inch piping ) intercooler has 2,5 inch outlets so i gotta get adapters.
2) Bought silicone adapters from 2 inch to 3 inch , also from 3 inch to 3.5 for possible maf installation ( but i got a different piece which is 3 inch and i can put MAF there)
3) Oil pan gasket
4) Turbo blanket
5) Not sure If i should include this here, but i got 2 keys that gotta be cut and programmed because I only have 1))

So waiting for the feedback from a guy that owns a shop , so I know when i can come over to do the car. Hopefully soon
 

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Discussion Starter #62
More updates with PICTURES
Here is the video of the exhaust pop if anyone is intrested https://youtu.be/iKXzmlt16EM
Ight so here we go https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1076128149163648.1073741832.100002994188937&type=1&l=e55f20cb33 This is album with pictures
1) So what ive done there is - Increased the size of wastegate hole quite a lot , trimmed metal around the wastegate flap so it opens more
2) My exhaust manifold the flange on it was a lot larger than a turbo one , so because of the turbo housing it would create a huge step , so I trimmed exhaust housing to be slightly larger than manifold flange so the step is gone .
3) I didnt know that my exhaust manifold the flange was threaded so I went to Home depot and bought 4 bolts with nuts and when I got back home to try them I found out threads but luckily for me I GOT THE RIGHT SIZE BOLT , i jsut had to shorten the bolt so it would fit and everything bolts perfect
4) Took time to figure out how turbo had to be clocked so thats all sorted ( still have to install this on the engine and see how that fits there
5) JB welded extra MAF to 3 inch tubing no picture for that , but ill make sure ill show it later.
So now im on my way to a guy that will do my clutch and tranny change , because tranny i have syncs worn out and i can "race" normally ( i could daily drive this tranny , but when i gotta get aggressive with downshifting or upshifting it gets stuck and i cant shift, also im gonna talk about the build with that guy if he's will to install this for me or let me use his lift.
 

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Hi Cwarel,

Really impress by your job and all jobs done by Daniel about the wiki on MS43 (amazing !!!!!!) :clap:

i would like install the same on a 330ci E85 with forged rods and pistons soon but I have read since many weeks huge topics on many forums but I didn't find a concrete solution to increase MAF map on MS43, I don't want to use a piggyback or maf emulator.

I have calculate that the maximum pressure will be 10-12psi @ 1024kg/h (the factory airflow limit)

My goal is 350whp max, I don't think if bigger injector is required, so maybe just modifcation on ignition table (ignition timing for e85) and injection tables (enrich to correct AFR for E85) ?


I follow closely your thread, and hope you can finalize your project very soon :) and start mine soon

Thanks to all guys for this fantastic forum :bow:

Anthony.G
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Thank you for your support , but i got bad news read the update)
Also Im working on the map for my car , still fighting load increasement through the tables ( other wise car wont go past 350 without a proper tune)
But since you only aim for 350 ( you dont even have to switch to e85 (98 ron /93 octaine should do the job )
Im going for 450 on stock engine (completely stock internals) even headgasket was never changed and Im honestly careless if I blow this engine )) because I got 2 engines that have 30k miles in the back yard and one of the engines is like 2005 , the other is 2002 So i can choose which ignition coil pack I want to use)
 

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Discussion Starter #65
So more updates
1) New tranny and clutch is in now im trying to wear clutch in by going 500 miles in stop and go traffic without shenanigans highway miles dont count
My gears go in nice and smooth , no more griding on downshifts and i can race and not lose 2 seconds on shifting because of the tranny but gotta wear in the clutch
2)New rear main seal
3) New seal for the housing holding rear main seal lmao))

NOW to the sh*t part
1) While taking old tranny out I snapped 3 main bolts that hold the tranny 2 long ones on the side and 1 short one on top ( m14 bolts i think) So i managed to pull 2 out , but the top one completely stripped clean with the surface , so I tried to drill it and it drilled aluminum around the bolt , but not the bolt itself so I guess 1 less bolt to hold the tranny hopefully wont hurt
2) Old guibo was completely sheared in pieces , replaced with a new one
3) Throw out bearing was shot / new one came with a clutch kit
4) In stock dual mass flywheel was so much play that it was suicidal to drive the car
5) Oem clutch disk was almost work out to the rivets
6) If you look on the surfaces the clutch slipped few times for sure but its all good new clutch , new flywheel
7)My o2 wires and plug was melted against the headers and probably melting right now cuz i forgot about them))

NOW HERE IS THE MAIN PROBLEM
car has 40k miles on it AND I GOT HUGE CRACK IN THE REAR DRIVER REAR SUBFRAME MOUNT , ITS SO BIG ( pictures will be included soon, too lazy to post them up right now , cuz just finished the car today and was driving to wear in clutch ( 470 miles left)

So here im at the hands of you guys , I need an expert on that ( as far as I can tell I only got 1 crack , but who knows when i drop the subframe )

Its definitely have to be welded and reinforcement plates gotta get welded in , and i need a good solution for this
So this is where the build is at right now , im not turbocharging car untill I get crack sorted out , other wise with more torque it will definitely rip out
Also Im gonna weld my 2,93 diff cuz why not ( just in case i have spare one)

Since crack has to be fixed which means rear subframe will be out , I noticed that all of my bushings are shot so Im gonna reaplce all of the bushings in the back ( because front was done literary 2 days ago , because second lower control arm snapped on me pictures will be included)
I went on ecs tuning website and im planning to spend 400( everything will be poly no more regular crap rubber that brackes for me) bucks on subframe +_ diff + front and back swaybar bushings , which im probably gonna do the DIY ( How to fix/prevent tears in the back Fast , replace bushings , with quility and cheap , video will include how to low ball mechanics in the shop for the price)
 

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how did you come up with such an extensive plan, buy all the parts, update this thread for 4 pages, fix other stuff, have 364 posts, and just now realized that you're going to have to reinforce the subframe? that's about as basic as knowledge gets when it comes to the e46...I'm very surprised you didn't know about this and if you did, I'm even more surprised that you're just now realizing you should do something about it...

When it comes time to do it, use the Reddish Motorsports kit. it's the most engineered and worthwhile kit out there. Others may say to use Turner because it'll save a few bucks and is "good enough" but I'm the type of person that likes doing things right the first time and if I can get the best, why would I settle for "good enough"?
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Ofcourse i knew about this but i wasnt expecting it to happen on 40k miles car thats why I never checked plus im still not 100%if its the crack untill i clear the material around it and thanks for the advice
 

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Ofcourse i knew about this but i wasnt expecting it to happen on 40k miles car thats why I never checked plus im still not 100%if its the crack untill i clear the material around it and thanks for the advice
unfortunately it can happen on any e46, at any mileage, m3 or not. it was a poor design from the factory and gets worse with abuse because of the movement of the subframe bushings, causing stress on the mounts which then eventually cracks or rips the floor. it's happened on plenty of daily driven, stock vehicles as well so it's not always about aggressive driving/track use that makes it happen.

chances are, if one mount is cracked then others are as well. damage can be anywhere from the floor plan literally dragging on the ground to a tiny hairline crack. it doesn't matter how small the crack is, it needs to be fixed. Reddish has an instruction manual that comes with the kit that shows you how clean it should before you do anything, how the hairline cracks should be welded, etc...

if you clean it and see a hairline crack and don't fix it, that's going to be exactly where your next crack or tear happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I was actually looking at this kit, i thought there could be something better, because where my crack is that plate wont reinforce it .ill upload picture later
 

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I was going to say the Reddish kit as well for underneath the car. Up top (in the trunk area) look up the "vince bar" it's a really good solution that I picked up for my car. With the power you're planning on I'd say some sort of upper reinforcement is a good idea.

I haven't installed mine yet since my car is parked for winter and it's -30C (-22F) and my garage isn't heated :( .
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I was going to say the Reddish kit as well for underneath the car. Up top (in the trunk area) look up the "vince bar" it's a really good solution that I picked up for my car. With the power you're planning on I'd say some sort of upper reinforcement is a good idea.

I haven't installed mine yet since my car is parked for winter and it's -30C (-22F) and my garage isn't heated :( .
Damn its brick where you at , but I used to live in Russia too and its was -56C ))
But yeah I was wondering for upper reinforcement also
 

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Discussion Starter #72
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Discussion Starter #73
This is the pictures I promised to post and on the last one you can see the reason I need to reinforcesubframe , once i get my kit and ill be ready to do this , ill post more pictures because im sure there is more cracks then this one . and this one also keeps on going it makes a 90 and keeps going fora while , so i think even Reddish kit wont fix that
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
So things that I gotta do ( this will not be included in the turbo build project since if I didnt have that crack I wouldnt do this )
So Some more updates
Things that I just ordered to do the job
Reddish Motorsports subframe reinforcement kit 150 bucks
Poly bushings for diff and subframe -370 bucks
Trailing arm bushing and balljoints ( bushing Poly ) bushings 75 bucks for 2 , balljoints 36 bucks
Sway Bar end links front and back 34 bucks
Rear control arm bushings - 14bucks
Spring insulator upper bushing - 70 bucks with shipping for 2 cuz I got squeaky noises in the back and i think that was the springs
So Total to rebuild back end of the car is 675 US dollars if ordered from ECS tuning - everything will arrive by the end of the month.
After I install this on the car , i will finally turbocharge it.

So far I spent on the car since i started this thread
675 for the rear rebuild ( im might buy some more stuff to reinforce on top like that vince bar ( but you cant buy it anywheres ( ive looked if someone could share a link with a delivery at the end of this month that be great )
480 for stage 3 clutch
40 For tranny fluid
500 for the shop to do tranny for me
Rear main seal changed also
Kit itself
160 intercooler piping
140 turbo
100 manifold
~100 all the fittings and hoses
And im sure around 300 for random stuff I put into it that i just wont remember
Everything came up to 2500 USA dollars for the car that only has 40k miles on it ( add vince bar thats another 500) and also exhaust shop i payed to do my exhaust 500 bucks ( that nyc prices )
So actually 3000 grand was spent or more im lost the count honestly

So I approximate to finish my car is gonna cost me another 400 for the crack fixes and 300 for turbo install ( I got a guy that will let me use his shop so I could install all of this myself )
 

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Many pics and regular update, I love this thread :excited:

I'm so excited to see the next update !!!

Thanks for your share cwaren :bow:
 

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Discussion Starter #76
So some updates. While I was waiting on parts , I decided to change how my car looks like , so I made a little DIY how to quickly reinforce m3 replica bumper because its bare plastic and pretty weak. Also I installed m3 mirrors which actually work they fold and I can adjust mirror using controls ( just had to rewire the plug) And at the end you could see my subframe reinforcement kit that I have no idea how to install cuz I didnt get instructions. Still waiting on few pieces to come , maybe next week the car will go back on the lift
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Discussion Starter #77
Small updates I used to be having 1 crack which was big , but then I found out that . this crack is even larger than i thought it would be , and then i found I have millions of these crack everywhere SAVE ME !!!!
Apparently I have 7 cracks , 4 in rear driver side mount , 1 in passenger rear , 2 passenger front
Subframe painted 1) rust reformer , 2) primer , enamel black paint infinite coats untill I ran out of 2 spray bottles LMAO )), bushings installed , huge valve cover oil leak fixed
My welder that supposed to be welding my car today , got into the accident yesterday and he didnt have time today so idk when somebody is gonna weld my car -_- (weld the reinforcing plates in etc)
 

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Small updates I used to be having 1 crack which was big , but then I found out that . this crack is even larger than i thought it would be , and then i found I have millions of these crack everywhere SAVE ME !!!!
Apparently I have 7 cracks , 4 in rear driver side mount , 1 in passenger rear , 2 passenger front
Subframe painted 1) rust reformer , 2) primer , enamel black paint infinite coats untill I ran out of 2 spray bottles LMAO )), bushings installed , huge valve cover oil leak fixed
My welder that supposed to be welding my car today , got into the accident yesterday and he didnt have time today so idk when somebody is gonna weld my car -_- (weld the reinforcing plates in etc)
Maybe consider doing full reinforcement if the damage is so severe and you plan to be sending serious power down the back.

 

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Discussion Starter #80
Here's one where you can keep the space in the trunk as well.


Yeah , maybe ill do tubular variant soon, because i tried to find Vince bar kit, and only way to buy is to make a group buy and the kit is 375 which is nothing for what its worth , but anyways Job is done , I fixed the cracks ,and welded the plates and then from the top I welded pcs that were in the kit and then i put some rust reformer , primer and black enamel , and then I took a gallon of fiberglass mix and dumped in there , but to the point where I can still add vince bar or other reinforcement components
 
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