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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guy,

My auto transmission gear selector shaft seal is been leaking quite sometimes now. Today i am going to replace it, but it took me a few hours to carefully removed the hard brittle crumble seal out with minimum scratch on the seal housing. I had to used a mirror to see it. There is not much room to move around. I used small flat tip and all sort of picks. It was pretty much work by feel.
Well, I am having a difficult time trying to set the new seal in. I used that white plastic cone thing that came with the seal, but the seal only go in as far as half way and would not go in any farther. I used a couple washers and the same shaft nut to force it in, but it just bulging up. Is there something or trick that i need to know. Thanks in advance.
 

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Have you thought about lowering the rear of the transmission to get better access? This may drop the shift selector rod down so you can actually hammer on it.


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That is not the way to remove old seal. Now area is too scratched up and new seal won't seal. Parts of the old seal are probably still there preventing new seal to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you thought about lowering the rear of the transmission to get better access? This may drop the shift selector rod down so you can actually hammer on it.



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Thanks BMWCaptain, No i have not thought of that and i have no idea how to lower the transmission. I was wondering how do they do it at the dealership or an indy shop?.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
That is not the way to remove old seal. Now area is too scratched up and new seal won't seal. Parts of the old seal are probably still there preventing new seal to go in.
So, please tell me how would you do it ?. I was making sure all of the old seal was removed before i put a new seal on. It would not be wise to leave any old seal in there, don't you think ?.
 

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So, please tell me how would you do it ?. I was making sure all of the old seal was removed before i put a new seal on. It would not be wise to leave any old seal in there, don't you think ?.
Use a seal pick like this. punch it through from the inner side of the seal close to the shaft and turn it 90 degree from behind against the metal seal ring and it will rip out the old seal without damage anything.

Also you can use the old seal plus the a washer on top with the nut to push the new seal in.



 

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Hello Guy,

My auto transmission gear selector shaft seal is been leaking quite sometimes now. Today i am going to replace it, but it took me a few hours to carefully removed the hard brittle crumble seal out with minimum scratch on the seal housing. I had to used a mirror to see it. There is not much room to move around. I used small flat tip and all sort of picks. It was pretty much work by feel.
Well, I am having a difficult time trying to set the new seal in. I used that white plastic cone thing that came with the seal, but the seal only go in as far as half way and would not go in any farther. I used a couple washers and the same shaft nut to force it in, but it just bulging up. Is there something or trick that i need to know. Thanks in advance.
Are you sure you remove the old seal completely? Sounds like you only remove the top part of the old seal "rubber" the metal part still sitting in there.

also you can check out this link:

http://bmwfanatics.ru/forumvb/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=33636
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Are you sure you remove the old seal completely? Sounds like you only remove the top part of the old seal "rubber" the metal part still sitting in there.

also you can check out this link:

http://bmwfanatics.ru/forumvb/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=33636
Thanks Kent330i,

You probably right. I do not remember I had removed any metal part. My seal is badly hardened, brittle and crumble in little tiny pieces as soon as I touch it. So the inside of the outer wall of that seal is metal and incased with rubber ?. The metal sleeve still wrap around the shaft ?. That might explain why I could not set the new seal in. I wonder what tool to use to take it out ?. Thank you for the information. I hope you are right. I ordered a new seal from ECS Tuning because the one in it now probably ruin.
 

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You will not be able to remove the rest of the seal containing the metal casing without dropping the tranny. Trust me. I did the same thing trying to remove it with the tranny in place. I got about half of it out which was about 4 mm depth. My alternative was to use a Viton oring placed over the old seal. I think it was a 20 mm OD x 12 mm ID and it fit the gap perfectly. You need to use an appropriately sized washer held in place by the metal plate which fits over the shaft. The washer with the right thickness will apply enough pressure to the oring to seal the gap. This fix has held up for almost 8 months with not even a drip of fluid. If it starts to leak again I will merely replace the oring. I'm not screwing around trying to remove what's left of the old seal. A major PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You will not be able to remove the rest of the seal containing the metal casing without dropping the tranny. Trust me. I did the same thing trying to remove it with the tranny in place. I got about half of it out which was about 4 mm depth. My alternative was to use a Viton oring placed over the old seal. I think it was a 20 mm OD x 12 mm ID and it fit the gap perfectly. You need to use an appropriately sized washer held in place by the metal plate which fits over the shaft. The washer with the right thickness will apply enough pressure to the oring to seal the gap. This fix has held up for almost 8 months with not even a drip of fluid. If it starts to leak again I will merely replace the oring. I'm not screwing around trying to remove what's left of the old seal. A major PITA.
Thank you AWDBMW, would you please post some pictures of the Viton o ring, washers and metal plate that you used and where I can buy them ?. Yes it was a PITA working under there.
 

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So, please tell me how would you do it ?. I was making sure all of the old seal was removed before i put a new seal on. It would not be wise to leave any old seal in there, don't you think ?.
There is a special tool to remove the seal but the tool can't be used if the transmission is installed. It is not possible to remove the seal with tranny installed, not enough space.

Search "GM shifter seal removal tool"
 

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^^you will not be able to use the "special" tool to remove the old seal if half of it has already been dug out with a pick since it has a threaded shaft that must wedge into the old seal. Also I have read about several cases where it will not fit over the shifter shaft properly so it is a waste of time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
^^you will not be able to use the "special" tool to remove the old seal if half of it has already been dug out with a pick since it has a threaded shaft that must wedge into the old seal. Also I have read about several cases where it will not fit over the shifter shaft properly so it is a waste of time and money.
I agreed with you because i had read the same thing about the special removal tool. I want to fix it like you do. I really need your help for information about the Viton Oring please.
 

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ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1438817064.206769.jpg
This is a photo of the oring and the supplier's info. I can't send you a photo of the washer without removing it and I'm not doing that unless the oring needs replaced again. I think you can figure it out by measuring clearances but it worked for me. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
View attachment 608799
This is a photo of the oring and the supplier's info. I can't send you a photo of the washer without removing it and I'm not doing that unless the oring needs replaced again. I think you can figure it out by measuring clearances but it worked for me. Good luck.
Thank you very much, I am really appreciate for your help. It will saves me a lot of time. I have some washers that I think they will fit. So you put this Viton o ring outside of the oem seal ( on top ) then washer (s) and nut? correct ?. Thanks again man.
 

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Yes oring then metal washer then existing metal plate then nut. I also put a thin Teflon washer on top of the metal washer to allow the metal backing plate to freely rotate with the selector shaft. The washers need to have the same OD as the oring and the ID must allow it to slip over the shaft. The washer thickness is determined by how much of your remaining seal is still in the bore and how far the oring seats in the bore. In my case it was about 4 mm. Don't worry about a few minor scratches inside the bore since there is a taper and the oring should seal it. At least it did for me.
 

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Thanks Kent330i,

You probably right. I do not remember I had removed any metal part. My seal is badly hardened, brittle and crumble in little tiny pieces as soon as I touch it. So the inside of the outer wall of that seal is metal and incased with rubber ?. The metal sleeve still wrap around the shaft ?. That might explain why I could not set the new seal in. I wonder what tool to use to take it out ?. Thank you for the information. I hope you are right. I ordered a new seal from ESC Tuning because the one in it now probably ruin.
You are correct, only the outer ring and the top were metal. The inner are all rubber so you start digging from the inner. The tool I used is the same tool I posted. If you take out the new seal you post put on you will have better idea what I am talking about.

Also I use the old seal that I remove plus a lager washer with the existing nut to help me press in the new seal. You don't have to drop down the transmission but you need to put the font of the car on 2 jack stands and get under.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are correct, only the outer ring and the top were metal. The inner are all rubber so you start digging from the inner. The tool I used is the same tool I posted. If you take out the new seal you post put on you will have better idea what I am talking about.

Also I use the old seal that I remove plus a lager washer with the existing nut to help me press in the new seal. You don't have to drop down the transmission but you need to put the font of the car on 2 jack stands and get under.
Thanks Kent330i, I hope it will come out and not bonded it there or I will do like what AWDBMW did.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yes oring then metal washer then existing metal plate then nut. I also put a thin Teflon washer on top of the metal washer to allow the metal backing plate to freely rotate with the selector shaft. The washers need to have the same OD as the oring and the ID must allow it to slip over the shaft. The washer thickness is determined by how much of your remaining seal is still in the bore and how far the oring seats in the bore. In my case it was about 4 mm. Don't worry about a few minor scratches inside the bore since there is a taper and the oring should seal it. At least it did for me.
Thanks, I will let you know if it works or not. I just phone ordered 4 each O-rings from Rocket Seals. I should get them sometimes next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello AWDBMW,

I finally have time to installed the Viton o-ring and a washer on top of that seal yesterday. So far No leak. I just have to keep my eyes on it for awhile. Thanks man for a quick solution.
 
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