13% load at idle sounds high. Might want to head down that path. Dirty throttle body or something requiring it to be open so much to maintain the idle.

Green

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Set up Torque Pro to capture data, it can and will capture timing advance. Usually it is not the knock sensor pulling timing but a screwed up BMW DME programming. I have seen this many times before. This is part of the 2800 Stutter Thread that is on the forum here.

In general terms, once warmed up as long as the IAT temp is not too high, the ignition timing should be around +15 degrees at idle and in general terms as the engine RPM increases so should the ignition timing. Timing should peak around +30 degrees depending on conditions. As I recall when foot is off the throttle in fuel shut off/coast mode the ignition timing may jump back toward 0 degrees or even -5 degrees? Been a while since I really tracked ignition timing.

Loss of ignition timing is probably the quickest way to loose/reduce power as there are only about 4-5 things the DME can control, fuel volume, ignition timing and VANOS and then of course ICV and throttle on drive by wire cars.

Even 1-2 degrees loss in ignition timing can be felt.

Graphing the throttle angle, engine RPM, vehicle speed and ignition timing will tell you quite a bit.

 

I can't figure out how to log in torque for some reason, I set the PID to capture data and then email a csv file but the data doesn't look right, I'll play with it more tomorrow. I watched the timing under full throttle and only saw around 23 degrees advance and when coasting it works its way down to around 5-7. Not sure about the TB and its relation to engine load, thought the idle was controlled by IAC. I should also mention that I have no O2 sensors hooked up yet, still waiting for the exhaust to be done. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, I obviously have codes for the O2 sensors but I'm seeing a misfire on cyl 3 so I'm gonna swap the ignition coil tomorrow after work and see what that does. Another thing happened tonight, engine stalled on me, started right up and didn't do it again so I'll attribute that to gremlins for now until it happens again! Once again jfoj, I appreciate your time and expertise. I'll report back soon as I can.

 

Im curently having a similuar issuse with my car as well, my car just died on me while at a stop light and it started right up after. It feels like the torque is down and I checked my ign timing and I cant remember what the exact timing was but I believe I had +5 deg Adv @ idle but I'll double check and see where im at this weekend.

I checked the codes that poped up and I had 3, one for the maf circuit low input, one for the CKP sensor malfunction, and another about segment timing faulty, flywheel adaptations. So I found SIB 12 07 02 relating to 2 of the faults and it calls for a CKP replacement (12 14 1 709 616) and a DME reprograming. Im going to go ahead and replace the CKP and try to reprogram it and see if that fixes the issue.

If your getting EDK faults check out the SIB 12 10 02 and see if it applies to you, it calls for and engine harness replacement and EDK replacement if the current one instaleed is not above a certain date.

 

OK, checking in here I was able to check my idle and it is indeed +5 adv @ idle, and maxed out @+28 adv under full load. I have yet to find anything in writing with the ign adv spec for the M54B30 engine, so I'm not really sure if the my reading were in spec or not? I know adv depends on temperature but when I was checking my ign adv my temp sensor was reading 38 deg air temp so I should of been seeing max advance if everything was right. If anyone has some solid specs chime in please.

I'm still pending the ckp sensor replacement and reprogramming, will check back in when I do that and see if anything changes

 

I still can't get logging to work correctly but at normal operating temp and idle I have about 3-5 adv. Partial throttle was the highest I've seen at 29 and full throttle won't go above 20. Iat reading about 48degrees.

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I still can't get logging to work correctly but at normal operating temp and idle I have about 3-5 adv. Partial throttle was the highest I've seen at 29 and full throttle won't go above 20. Iat reading about 48degrees.

As I recall Torque may record every time it is connected.

Is IAT temp in F or C??

Also is this IAT temp after a long idle or after the engine was shut down for a while?

IAT temps should be about 20-30F higher than outside air temps due to some heat soak and influence from the engine compartment.

Many relocate the IAT to outside the engine compartment to more reflect the proper IAT as it is entering the engine. So car with the 3 wire MAF's have the IAT sensor located in the intake between the #3 & #4 intake runner, these may seem to read higher temps that the 6 wire MAF's with the IAT integrated into the MAF.

 

Did some checks today while i was on a drive, I noticed that my alternator stops charging for a second and then turns on again, so it looke like my issue are due to the insuffient voltage, i noticed that on my drive at one point my voltage dropped to as low as 10.3 volts.

Defeintly need to get this new cranksensor and reprogram my DME, at it seems like due to the lose of the crank signal, the dme stops the alternator(not to sure on this) from charging and also cuts off the fuel(I know this is right). I'll be back with a report once I do the reprogramming which should be next weekend hopefully

 

There is no way your Voltage should drop to 10.3 Volts while driving.

How are you measuring this?

Charging Voltage should stay between 13.5-14.5 Volts. Even if the alternator quits charging, the Voltage should not drop below about 12.3 Volts while there is a load on the battery.

Either you have multiple problem, bad battery and/or bad connections for the Voltage to drop to 10.3 Volts while the engine/car is running.

First thing I would check would be the engine to body ground, on the lower passenger frame rail near the passenger side motor mount.

 

Here is a graph of my 330Ci at idle (mostly).
You should be able to see a data item for the Knock sensors, I believe my AutoEnginuity software shows a voltage of from 0 - 5 volts from the knock sensors.
It shows a range for the ignition timing of -23.60 - +71.60 whan I graph it, but it also shows the max rpms as 9000, so not a real BMW limit.

There is also a data item AutoEnguinity calls RON Factor that will indicate the approximate RON octane of the fuel used.

RON factor for determining fuel quality

Fuels with a low octane number may be the cause of the following problems.
- High fuel consumption
- Reduced tractive power
- Driving operation malfunctions
- Poor start-off characteristics
The RON factor serves the purpose of determining the fuel quality used. The reference values refer to the following:
RON factor
Refuelled fuel quality
0 to 0.2 RON 98
0.2 to 0.6 RON 95
0.5 to 1.0 RON 91
These reference values apply at outside temperatures higher than 25 °C. At lower temperatures, knocking occurs at a later point and results in lower RON factors.

Here is more from a 1/4 mile run at the dragstrip:

 

Ok big update, I put in the new ckp sensor and reprogrammed my car with istap, however I have no clue what version number I updated to, there was no info coming up for the factory, current and available integration level.

So after the longest 30 min of my life, I get the programming successful message and instantly go to start the car, and magic happened she's back. I went for a drive and set up my dmm and no more voltage problems. This could either be proframming( which I doubt but hey crazy stuff happens sometimes) or due to the fact that while I was under my car I disconnected and left unplugged my oil level sensor. Apperantly these can short out when they go bad and cause problems, my sensor had been dead for more than 3 years so maybe it was shorting out idk?

Anyway the car drives great but I have yet to see data(my ign adv) so I will get some data and return with the results.

 

Just checked out my timing and it's still 5 deg adv @ idle. I use premium fuel, the iat reading was around 60F, so I'm not sure what's going on with it, I've tested out my MAF before an it's good so I'm not sure what else? I guess I'll just keep searching because my car is starting to feels sluggish again.

 

I just replaced the vanos hose going to the intake side solenoid because I noticed a leak and while I was at it I cleaned up both the solenoids and made sure the the pistons were not binding, so after that I did a run and noticed that ign adv @ idle is the same but as soon as the rpm's reach 1k the timing adv goes to 15, and I even seen the timing go up to 30.8 @ 2k rpms, the low end torque seem right on now! Im happy with the feel of the car now and I still have yet to see in graphs the 15deg ign adv @ idle on the m54B30, I've looked everywhere and cannot find anything so I'm done messing with it.

 

I have a m54b30 and did a quick log. It seems to be running 2° at idle