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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Recently my bimmer and beemer got in a fight (wind blew my motorcycle over onto my car :bawling: ) and I have been forced to repair, or replace my hood. So.. my question is this.

Those of you with CF hoods, as a general rule how do they look/fit? Fitment is a big concern of mine. I am looking at an ATR CF hood that someone has for sale in the classified section right now, but if that doesn't work out I will probably be waiting for the Vorstiener "power bulge" hood which is supposed to be released before this summer.

I was talking with my body shop and they really seemed to not like the idea of me getting a CF hood. From their experience they say that fitment is always an issue, and painting them is very difficult. I assume that they just haven't worked with any high quality aftermarket parts. They did say that most of the body kits that they have had to work with are eBay specials for Hondas and Toyotas.

My last concern is the hood pin issue. How many of you are actually using hood pins? The last thing I want is for my newly painted hood to fly up and smash my roof at 80+mph. But, on the other hand.. I really don't want hood pins sticking through the hood... kinda defeats the purpose.

So.. weigh in guys.. and thanks for the input.:hi:
 

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OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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I was in the same situation last week. Bodyshop guys didn't want to deal with a CF hood. It takes more prep work if you want to paint. But since you have a sedan you don't have much of an option to save weight and get better lines. Don't do hood pins that's just ugly on a street car. If you are really worried about it coming up, just add a underhood leash cable that allows it to go up so far and needs to be undone for the rest. That way it won't open enough to flip out. Besides the stock pin and latch should cross over, just the overly pressured hood shocks would be an issue because the lighter hood doesn't need so much force.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Vorstiener doesn't make a sedan power bulge hood... yet.

The GTR hood is way to extreme for my car..:eek:
 

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I cannot comment on the fitment of the ATR hood, sorry. I can say that the shop that did my hood had no problem painting it, I'm not sure what sort of problems there's supposed to be. :dunno: As for the hood pins, I would suggest using them or some sort of solution to keep the hood down. I never had my hood fly up at me, but at about 70-80 MPH the hood would start to "flutter" and look pretty scary. I always drove pretty nervously at high speed, 'cause it always seemed like the stupid thing was going to fly away. :eek:
 

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There is no difference in painting a C/F hood. It's clear coat on top of C/F cloth. A stock hood is clear coat on top of paint. They both need to be sanded. You just can't go nuts on the C/F and sand it to the cloth then it's gets a bit more complicated.

I just scuffed and shot mine with epoxy, then paint, it wasn't anything special.
 

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There is no difference in painting a C/F hood. It's clear coat on top of C/F cloth. A stock hood is clear coat on top of paint. They both need to be sanded. You just can't go nuts on the C/F and sand it to the cloth then it's gets a bit more complicated.

I just scuffed and shot mine with epoxy, then paint, it wasn't anything special.
I thought you had to worry about it absorbing more of the paint? Thats why a lot of the time you see ripples on CF parts
 

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I thought you had to worry about it absorbing more of the paint? Thats why a lot of the time you see ripples on CF parts

There are C/F parts that are basically bare and not clear coated. But these are generally race parts which don't require the shiny look and are for function only not appearance. Those would asorb some clear coat if you were to go that route.

But all the hoods I've seen and all street C/F parts have clear coat on them. The reason for clear coat on street parts besides looks is for UV protection. So if clear coat is over paint or over cloth it's still the substance that you will be painting over so no difference.

The ripples you see are just imperfections in the production process which happens in both C/F and fiberglass parts with large surface areas like hoods.

I'm only leaving the bulge clear and the rest is paint so I was able to block out most of the waves in my hood.
 
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