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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Got the front end back together, great to have it back looking like an actual car again.
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Reattached the sway bar with new bushings and slipped in the strut tower reinforcement plates, will leave the rest of the suspension untouched for now.
Got onto swapping out the diff. Decided to put in the auto 330 diff (3.38) from the donor car for now rather than messing about swapping over the input flanges on the 325 auto diff (3.46). Want to give the manual 2.93 diff a fresh lick of paint and new fluids before putting it in for good with the rest of the refurbished subframe later down the track so left it out for now. Good chance to try out the different ratios as well. Was a bit of a mission wrestling it in and out but got there in the end.
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Then the exhaust gaskets arrived so got onto attaching the manifolds. Absolute PITA of a job, started early afternoon and finished around 1am.
Fitted new pre-car O2 sensors and blocked out the post-cat openings with generic M18 x 1.5 bolts.
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Then got onto the fun part... Honestly, not sure if it's even possible to fit them in without removing the exhaust side engine mount arm. Gave it a quick half-arsed effort but quickly resorted to slightly jacking the front of the engine up (having removed the engine mount nuts on both sides prior) and took the arm out. That opened up enough room to wrestle both the cats past the subframe but was still a balancing act holding them both in there and trying to thread on a few bolts, at the same time trying not to knock the gaskets off the studs. Got there in the end but then made a bit of a misstep. Got the Bank 2 manifold bolted and properly torqued up and jumped onto Bank 1. The right thing to do would have been to at least roughly throw the engine mount arm back in place and reattach the small bracket to the block that holds onto the Bank 1 manifold right after the cat. I only realised my mistake after fully torquing up both manifolds. Of course the engine mount would not fit back through with the manifolds in the way. No way I was going to remove them again so instead I unbolted the power steering hoses (luckily I hadn't filled the system up with fluids yet) and LCA bushing that allowed me to swing the control arm out of the way enough to manoeuver the arm into place. Then I discovered there's not enough room between the block and the manifold to fit in the top bolt for the little bracket (seen in the photo below). Not sure if it serves much of a purpose but wanted to attach it regardless so I ended up cutting the top bolt about 8mm short that gave just enough room to thread it on. So far I think that's the first (and hopefully only) shortcut that I've had to resort to so won't be losing any sleep over it.
Reattached the steering linkage and that should be that in the engine bay, short of fitting the beauty covers and cabin filter housing. Had to rotate the plastic guiding tab thingy on the steering rack input shaft so that the steering wheel and the wheels themselves are pointing (seemingly) straight.
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Prior to that also replaced the top section of the steering linkage with one I stumbled upon at Pick-A-Part. Wouldn't have bothered with the effort but someone had done all the work of removing the thing so it was just laying there looking pretty in the engine bay of one of the cars so I couldn't walk past. I knew the old one had been subjected to some serious abuse in its past life so just another small thing to tidy up.
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Things to do still:
  • Sort out the driveshaft
  • Fit exhaust
  • Fluids - bleed brakes & clutch, cooling system, power steering
  • Coding - have never done it before but with some awesome guides out there, hoping it won't be too messy an affair.
Not sure if the order matters but will first update the DME to the latest EU2 330i software following this guide from @Bali. That should code out the post-cat O2's so two birds with one stone. Then, code out the EGS module following this one and that should be that. Hopefully. Famous last words.
If I was a bite-my-nails type of person, I probably wouldn't have any left at this point. Exciting times.
 

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2003 325i Touring
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Further to the previous post, finally got this in the mail earlier this week. Awesome stuff, owe you guys one. Feel like a bit of a dick for ending up with two of these but both will go to good use as I previously mentioned.
View attachment 969434
Really grateful for this community and all the folk eager to help on here, would never have had the courage to tackle any of this stuff without all the resources and advice provided. Thanks guys!
If I ever make back to NZ (was there summer of '98) I'll give you shout and you can buy me a pint!
 

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325i Touring
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
If I ever make back to NZ (was there summer of '98) I'll give you shout and you can buy me a pint!
Absolutely! Thanks again.

@Bali
Could I just confirm I'm doing this right, does the order of the coding matter?
I'm assuming it's best to first code the DME to the latest 330i EU2 software (7545562), and then code out the EGS? I figure because the latter goes over all the modules at the end, it may be best to have the DME sorted before doing that, so that it's fully synchronised? Otherwise the guides look really comprehensive and easy to follow so hoping it all goes smoothly.
Thanks!
 

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Keep in mind the 330 diff also has bigger output flanges that match the 330 cv axles which match the 330 hubs and trailing arms at the outer end. So you may be getting into more rear suspension than you were initially anticipating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Keep in mind the 330 diff also has bigger output flanges that match the 330 cv axles which match the 330 hubs and trailing arms at the outer end. So you may be getting into more rear suspension than you were initially anticipating.
The output flanges looked the same between the diffs and bolted up to the 325 axles just fine. I am eventually switching over the whole 330 subframe but didn't want to upset the alignment just now. Want to get the car up and running to break in the engine properly and then get onto subframe reinforcement, refurb the subframe & suspension and switch over to 330 brakes and axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Took up some arts and crafts for a change. Stripped down the scruffy looking driveshaft and bottom brace plates to bare metal and gave them 3 coats of low gloss paint. Came out quite nice. Left the U-joint part of the driveshaft untouched as I didn't want to get any of the actual pivoting bits caked in paint. Bolted and torqued the driveshaft up with a new center support bearing and that's the driveline sorted.
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Didn't feel like bolting on any rusty bits to went full stupid on the exhaust. Post fact realised that most of it was likely an absolute waste of time but happy to have some shiny exhaust tips at least.
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Onto less trivial stuff, busted out the laptop and tackled the coding/flashing part of things. All went without a hitch. Threw in the fully charged battery and got the latest 330i EU2 software installed, EGS coded out and adaptations cleared. Got rid of the gear cog from the cluster so must have worked alright. Haven't tried starting it yet but nearly at that point now.
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At the end of the night, went to roll the windows up by holding down the lock button on the key fob and was met with a pleasant WTF moment - along with the windows going up, the mirrors also folded in. The same mirrors that had refused to work all throughout my ownership. Absolutely no idea what the issue was and what fixed it but not complaining!
Finishing touches now. Brakes and clutch fully bled through and feeling nice and firm. The old brake fluid had definitely seen some better days.
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Went through the underside and engine bay to double check that everything is bolted and connected up. Moment of truth tomorrow morning. Will see if she'll fire up, then hopefully go for a drive if all is looking well. Fingers crossed.
 

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Project is coming along nicely @Vass

From memory, I think my 325i and 330i diff output flanges were different. I might get a chance to verify that soon, as my son's car has to go on the lift to investigate a pulsing power or early driveline vibration of some sort...
 

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In my case they were different. 2003 325i 5 speed touring had axles with bolts approximately equal spaced.
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2005 330i 6 speed performance package / ZHP sedan has axles with unequal spaced bolts.
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Perhaps there is a difference with 330i auto or in other markets than mine...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
In my case they were different. 2003 325i 5 speed touring had axles with bolts approximately equal spaced.

2005 330i 6 speed performance package / ZHP sedan has axles with unequal spaced bolts.

Perhaps there is a difference with 330i auto or in other markets than mine...?
Interesting. All 3 of my diffs (325 auto, 330 auto, 330 manual) have exactly the same output flanges that look the same as your first photo. Must be a ZHP thing I guess?
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Well, sure enough, would have been a bit weird if it had been all plain sailing.
Charged the battery back up to full after doing the coding, disconnected the main relay and the fuel pump fuse to build up oil pressure, depressed the clutch, turned the key...

No crank.

Was definitely dreading this. So many components have been tinkered with that it's hard to pinpoint a culprit. Here's what I have to work with so far.
All sorts of codes pop up with the main relay out but here's what's left after that hooked back up and everything cleared.
Weird amount of ABS codes that won't go away, and do hear a single click from the ABS unit area when turning on the ignition, but surely the ABS unit shouldn't be what's preventing it from cranking?
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Reading live data, the clutch switch is registering, whether the signal goes all the way through to the EWS though I'll need to check. I do get a chime when opening the door with the key in position 2 so the key shouldn't be the culprit. In the EWS live data, I wonder if the 'Selector lever / Clutch switch' is supposed to go green with the clutch depressed? Currently it doesn't make any difference.
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After a couple of tries another DME code popped up - 'Control unit self-test 3'. Not sure what that is.
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Suspect it's either an EWS signal issue or the starter not getting voltage. Have put the battery back on charge again. Will keep on digging and trying to diagnose, shall report back if I get anywhere. Feel free to chime in, might be missing something obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Update. Looks like EWS is the culprit. Followed the trick in this video at around 3 minutes in - unplugged the EWS, stuck a 30 Amp fuse into the first two slots and got her cranking! Will crack on and see if I can figure out a fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Went to EWS coding and switched the transmission coding to manual which essentially gets rid of the need for the clutch switch to turn on. Happily started cranking away.
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Weird thing is, even before I did that I could have sworn I saw the clutch switch work looking at the live data, but now it does nothing. But that might have been the live data view in INPA instead. The real test will be whether it'll suffer from rev hang and fails to disable cruise control. Will see. If so then either the clutch switch has gone bad or I've messed up the wiring somehow.
Anyway, cranked it for a good 10-15 seconds with the main relay and fuel pump fuse removed, then refitted them and... here we are. Didn't want to let it idle for long so shut it down after a steady 10 seconds or so. Plus the neighbours next door have barely a month old baby and this thing sounded like a bloody tractor with no exhaust on so didn't want to be a pest. Feels like the final mile of a long race. Didn't get as far as I hoped to today but touching distance now. Don't want to jinx it again so will just see how it goes.

Also, don't know what people do with heat shields when manual converting but this really doesn't sit well with me. Did a quick post in a FB group asking what others have done and the recommended solution seems to be not to worry about it. Thinking I might pop by Pick-A-Part again, cut off a front section of a similar heat shield and tidily jam it in there somehow to fill the gap. Or, you know, might just hakuna matata.
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Congrats!

As for the heat shield, if you are talking about the gap from the back of the trans cross member to the front of the large driveshaft heatshield, then that looks pretty close to my 330i that was originally a manual, so maybe the heat shields are the same... I reached in there yesterday to check for play in the driveline and there was close to a foot of exposed guibo and driveshaft at the front.

Edit: correction, the 6 speed is significantly longer than the 5 speed, so that gap might be because I swapped in the shorter one on the sedan. On my wagon I swapped the 5 speed for the 6 speed and when using the orginal heat shields that gap is closed up - so likely there was a gap before the swap - just not sure how much, but it is possible that the heat shields are all the same...
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
As for the heat shield, if you are talking about the gap from the back of the trans cross member to the front of the large driveshaft heatshield, then that looks pretty close to my 330i that was originally a manual, so maybe the heat shields are the same... I reached in there yesterday to check for play in the driveline and there was close to a foot of exposed guibo and driveshaft at the front.

Edit: correction, the 6 speed is significantly longer than the 5 speed, so that gap might be because I swapped in the shorter one on the sedan. On my wagon I swapped the 5 speed for the 6 speed and when using the orginal heat shields that gap is closed up - so likely there was a gap before the swap - just not sure how much, but it is possible that the heat shields are all the same...
Interesting. Guess it might be like that on both autos and manuals then. It wouldn't give me peace though, so first thing this morning I once again returned to Pick-A-Part and nabbed a front section of a similar heatshield and mashed together an extension. Quite pleased with myself with how it turned out.
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Bolted up the exhaust with new hangers and fresh braces, started her up again, bled the power steering and cooling system, topped up oil, then dropped her down, torqued up the sway bar brackets and wheel nuts, ready for its first run.
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Went for a quick run around the block. The clutch felt a bit weird and will take some getting used to. First time driving a manual BMW so not sure how it's supposed to feel. Probably down to it being a double mass flywheel and the clutch not bedded in yet. Lifters ticking away as was to be expected, otherwise ran really well. Was absolutely buzzing to have her up and running again. All the good vibes got wiped away though as I checked the underside.
FFS
Not a small leak either. Left a good trail all along the road as well. Absolutely pissing out engine oil. Gearbox out it is...
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I suspect it's the rear main seal. Thinking back now, I do remember being a bit unsure about it. I ran it in flush with the housing but originally I think it sat about 1-2mm proud. Thought it'd be fine, obviously mistakenly so. Remember seeing FCP Euro mention a special installation tool in one of their videos but then again others have just ran it in using the old seal with a block of wood so went with that approach. Must have messed it up somehow. Will hopefully see the issue once the box is out. Will just get this kit if that's the issue, don't want to trust myself with that again.
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Bit disheartening after spending my whole Christmas break on it but it is what it is, learning things the hard way. Not about to give up now.
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