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Check the link to the thread in post #314. I ran into the same thing and documented it. Our prefacelift's are a bit different back there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Ahh ok cool thank you. I some how missed that post.
 

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I can not thank you enough for this write up! I just bought my daughter and 04 325i and the passenger rear indicator was on when I bought it, I figured it was a bulb. Replaced the bulbs and still on.....WTF. I saw your write up and went and looked, sure enough....I pulled the plug and the brown wire was loose and burnt. Added your fix and bam.....all good now. Now off to figure out the xenon headlights being dim issue........
 

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Go see your dealership, there is a bullitin about this situation. It is your ground on your wiring harness that will need to get fixed.
Pardon me if this IS actually addressed somewhere, but I've been chasing this around for awhile, with multiple forks and sidetracks, for a headlight flicker thing, and now there's an intermittent right front turn signal warning light on the dash - so -

I am really interested in looking at this wider sweeping WIRING HARNESS ground issue FIRST - if I knew what/where to check, y'know?? Is there a service bulletin NUMBER, by any chance?

Thanks?:)
 

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Pardon me if this IS actually addressed somewhere, but I've been chasing this around for awhile, with multiple forks and sidetracks, for a headlight flicker thing, and now there's an intermittent right front turn signal warning light on the dash - so -

I am really interested in looking at this wider sweeping WIRING HARNESS ground issue FIRST - if I knew what/where to check, y'know?? Is there a service bulletin NUMBER, by any chance?

Thanks?:)
As this is a taillight thread, you'll probably get more responses by either starting your own thread with "headlight/turn signal wiring issue" in the title, or finding a similar thread and posting there.
 

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Hi All,
I would add before verify ground problem, Test the bulb with a multimeter !
Perhaps it is a bulb problem. Some bulbs are defective and you can only see it with a multimeter. I read 5 ohms instead 0.5 ohms measuring a bulb resistance, and the bulb was new !! (it is a known brand : Phillips) ! Test the bulb before use it !
If the car is a phase one before 2001, it doesn't seem affect by this issue. My rear connector has one line, and the ground number is 3.
Have Fun !
 

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Thanks for the compliment.

I did the right taillight before since it was the one giving me the problem. I saw your post so I did the left one today -- this time with pics.

All photos are for the left taillight. Process is the same for the right.

The only materials and tools you need are:
- a 0.25" blade receptacle (available in Radio Shack, Home Depot or any electronics shop)
- a 5" strip of size #18 or larger wire
- rubber or vinyl electrical tape
- utility knife
- pliers

1) Release the taillight housing and lay it on the trunk.

2) Release the connector by pressing on the sides then pulling. Take note of the circled tab. That's the point we'll connect to later.


3) Cut a 5" piece of wire and strip one end about a quarter of an inch.


4) Insert the stripped end into the blade receptacle and crimp using any pair of pliers. Try pulling out the wire afterwards to make sure it's tight.


5) At the connector, the ground wire is the brown one. It's noticably thicker than the other wires.


6) Using a utility knife, carefully strip half an inch of insulation on the brown/ground wire 2"-3" from the connector.


7) Strip half an inch of the other end of the new piece of wire and wrap neatly (mine wasn't too neat in the pic) around the exposed ground wire.


8) Wrap tightly with electrical tape.


9) Plug in the connector again and insert the blade receptacle into the tab.


10) YOU'RE DONE!! If you've been having that annoying intermittent bulb-out problems and all bulbs seem to be ok, this is I think a more permanent solution. Replacing just the connector like what's done at the dealer will just bring back that problem after a few years. The problem is that the connector pin for the ground is too thin to carry all that current to the bulbs reliably. So eventually the pin builds up electrical resistance and will melt in some cases. Running a parallel connection using a thicker connector will solve it. (I'm an electronics engineer by education btw)
Hi everyone. My tail light is a bit different from the photos above although I know the same principles apply to my car as well. I have already disconnected the brown wire and attached another wire and stuff - all good. However, my problem is with the other connection from the metal as I don't have the small tab as shown in the above photo #2 (circled with yellow). Should I solder/drill it? I have attached an image below. In fact, I'm not sure if I pointed out in the right direction?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Hi everyone. My tail light is a bit different from the photos above although I know the same principles apply to my car as well. I have already disconnected the brown wire and attached another wire and stuff - all good. However, my problem is with the other connection from the metal as I don't have the small tab as shown on the above photo #2 (circled with yellow). Should I solder it? I have attached an image below. In fact, I'm not sure if pointed out on the right direction?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Early e46s did not have the spade connection. I have a '99 build '00 model. I drilled and tapped a screw into the large metal pad near your thumb in the photo and attached a splice to my ground wire there. It's worked like a charm. There are other threads on this board that show that fix. Since you have a 330i it's got to be an '01 or newer model. The '01 models may be like my '00.
 

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Early e46s did not have the spade connection. I have a '99 build '00 model. I drilled and tapped a screw into the large metal pad near your thumb in the photo and attached a splice to my ground wire there. It's worked like a charm. There are other threads on this board that show that fix. Since you have a 330i it's got to be an '01 or newer model. The '01 models may be like my '00.
Bim3 is correct on all counts, the prefacelift versions do not have the spade connectors. As he noted, the location by your thumbnail is a good spot and is noted in my prefacelift DIY http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1053348&highlight=tail+light.

ERL412, you can tell if it's the ground section because that part of the sheet metal is connected to all the bulbs.
The other metal parts contain the power to the bulbs and are individually connected, depending on what their function is.
You should put the year of your car in your signature. There are a couple of different issues that will come up with these cars that are Facelift or Prefacelift specific, it will help those attempting to assist you, if they know what model your referring to.
 

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Thanks for the compliment.

I did the right taillight before since it was the one giving me the problem. I saw your post so I did the left one today -- this time with pics.

All photos are for the left taillight. Process is the same for the right.

The only materials and tools you need are:
- a 0.25" blade receptacle (available in Radio Shack, Home Depot or any electronics shop)
- a 5" strip of size #18 or larger wire
- rubber or vinyl electrical tape
- utility knife
- pliers

1) Release the taillight housing and lay it on the trunk.

2) Release the connector by pressing on the sides then pulling. Take note of the circled tab. That's the point we'll connect to later.


3) Cut a 5" piece of wire and strip one end about a quarter of an inch.


4) Insert the stripped end into the blade receptacle and crimp using any pair of pliers. Try pulling out the wire afterwards to make sure it's tight.


5) At the connector, the ground wire is the brown one. It's noticably thicker than the other wires.


6) Using a utility knife, carefully strip half an inch of insulation on the brown/ground wire 2"-3" from the connector.


7) Strip half an inch of the other end of the new piece of wire and wrap neatly (mine wasn't too neat in the pic) around the exposed ground wire.


8) Wrap tightly with electrical tape.


9) Plug in the connector again and insert the blade receptacle into the tab.


10) YOU'RE DONE!! If you've been having that annoying intermittent bulb-out problems and all bulbs seem to be ok, this is I think a more permanent solution. Replacing just the connector like what's done at the dealer will just bring back that problem after a few years. The problem is that the connector pin for the ground is too thin to carry all that current to the bulbs reliably. So eventually the pin builds up electrical resistance and will melt in some cases. Running a parallel connection using a thicker connector will solve it. (I'm an electronics engineer by education btw)
Hi any ideas what the implications are of plugging in the new connector to the pint you marked as NOT HERE! in your diagram?
 

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works for F30 as well!

Thanks for the compliment.

I did the right taillight before since it was the one giving me the problem. I saw your post so I did the left one today -- this time with pics.

All photos are for the left taillight. Process is the same for the right.

The only materials and tools you need are:
- a 0.25" blade receptacle (available in Radio Shack, Home Depot or any electronics shop)
- a 5" strip of size #18 or larger wire
- rubber or vinyl electrical tape
- utility knife
- pliers

1) Release the taillight housing and lay it on the trunk.

2) Release the connector by pressing on the sides then pulling. Take note of the circled tab. That's the point we'll connect to later.


3) Cut a 5" piece of wire and strip one end about a quarter of an inch.


4) Insert the stripped end into the blade receptacle and crimp using any pair of pliers. Try pulling out the wire afterwards to make sure it's tight.


5) At the connector, the ground wire is the brown one. It's noticably thicker than the other wires.


6) Using a utility knife, carefully strip half an inch of insulation on the brown/ground wire 2"-3" from the connector.


7) Strip half an inch of the other end of the new piece of wire and wrap neatly (mine wasn't too neat in the pic) around the exposed ground wire.


8) Wrap tightly with electrical tape.


9) Plug in the connector again and insert the blade receptacle into the tab.


10) YOU'RE DONE!! If you've been having that annoying intermittent bulb-out problems and all bulbs seem to be ok, this is I think a more permanent solution. Replacing just the connector like what's done at the dealer will just bring back that problem after a few years. The problem is that the connector pin for the ground is too thin to carry all that current to the bulbs reliably. So eventually the pin builds up electrical resistance and will melt in some cases. Running a parallel connection using a thicker connector will solve it. (I'm an electronics engineer by education btw)
I know this thread is super old, but just wanted to make an account and report back that after extensive searching, the above solution solved my problem for my 2013 F30 328i BMW!!!

Surprisingly, I did not find many other F30 owners with this dreaded rapid turn blinker problem nor a solution but somehow stumbled on this thread! So odd that even the newer models are having this issue. Mine was having erosion where the harness meets the housing unit, there was near complete erosion on the ground male prong that was on the housing unit. The connection was intermittent, causing both a brake light and turn signal malfunction warning on the dash.

My fix was basically the same as the one originally outlined, but I used an existing white-capped port on the housing to feed the ground wire, pulled up the eroded (but cut and cleaned off) ground metal from the housing connector and attached the ground to that.

See attachments. I hope this helps any other F30 ppl searching around for an answer via google haha.





Good as new! THANKS! :bow:
 

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With 18+ year old cars, pulling up old threads is no biggie IMO. The problems repeat.
Did you post your experience in the F30 forum?
You might want to use liquid tape or quality electric tape on that bit of exposed wire under the tab, don't want it to give you any issues in the future.
Congrats on saving yourself a few hundred bills.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

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After looking at this post and others.

I see there is a tail light ground fix that sometimes solves the headlight flickering problem. My question is why?
The headlight ground is up front near the headlight. Why does a ground that***8217;s all the way in the back....on the opposite side of the car. Fix this problem?
 

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After looking at this post and others.

I see there is a tail light ground fix that sometimes solves the headlight flickering problem. My question is why?
The headlight ground is up front near the headlight. Why does a ground that’s all the way in the back....on the opposite side of the car. Fix this problem?
 

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Still not been answered. Looking at the diagrams. To me, it***8217;s pointless to make diagrams like that. I like the old ones where you just trace the wires. When they add colors to them.....even better.

This click through a37-b12-h136 is kind of over,I***8217;ll and really makes no sense to do it that way. Sure...there are a lot of words....but there were a lot of wires in the older manuals done the traditional way and they still worked fine.

If I knew how the ground structure worked. I would manipulate it to be more workable for my own purposes. Adding ground wires did nothing for me and I don***8217;t really know why adding them at the tail light even matters. It seems to be a long travel for a small ground wire.....l

Cost savings....sure. When it c9mes to repairing things like this. Cost doesn***8217;t matter. I***8217;m not fixing 500,000 of them....

I***8217;m trying to repair just one. The manual for wiring are garbage and I have enough experience over the years to say that for me...this is so
 

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Thank you!

Thank you for this fix. It saved me a quoted $720+ from the dealer! I appreciate the time you spend to make this information available for others!!


I know this thread is super old, but just wanted to make an account and report back that after extensive searching, the above solution solved my problem for my 2013 F30 328i BMW!!!

Surprisingly, I did not find many other F30 owners with this dreaded rapid turn blinker problem nor a solution but somehow stumbled on this thread! So odd that even the newer models are having this issue. Mine was having erosion where the harness meets the housing unit, there was near complete erosion on the ground male prong that was on the housing unit. The connection was intermittent, causing both a brake light and turn signal malfunction warning on the dash.

My fix was basically the same as the one originally outlined, but I used an existing white-capped port on the housing to feed the ground wire, pulled up the eroded (but cut and cleaned off) ground metal from the housing connector and attached the ground to that.

See attachments. I hope this helps any other F30 ppl searching around for an answer via google haha.





Good as new! THANKS! :bow:
 
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