Since when were BMWs sports cars?? Start looking at BMWs for what they are. Not what you want them to be.Funny that you say they've never been better. With the amount of money you spend maintaining your car you'd be well on your way to having one.
Having said that, BMW's new cars are fvcked. BMW used to have the best mix of luxury/quality and sporty qualities, now they may as well be badged Lexus. Lexus isn't a bad brand if that's what you're looking for- but its not what I'm looking for. The F30 is shiit. The F10 looks like a Buick. both of them have steering lifted from something more akin to a Ford Fusion than sports car. They are incredibly imprecise and frustrating. Why did they delete both the fill and drain plugs on their new diffs? To make the cars disposable, not to keep them running. You are starting to seem less intelligent than I thought. :facepalm:
E46 is a sports car, well to all of those who are fanatics out there. Because we most certainly drive them that way.
Since the E30 M3 and E46 M3 CSl, Z4M and 1M Coupe; these are all practical sports cars.
How inspiring! Sign me up. I drove one just before I finalized my decision for my second E46. I could have one if I wanted. Guess what, I don't. It seems you are the one wasting your time on the wrong forum, and with the wrong car. I hear the F30s aren't selling too well, I'm sure a local BMW dealer would be more than helpful in assisting you with your newest mistake... err purchase.So you***8217;ve got the engine north of 3k and head into that curve. Can the Luxury Line 3er handle it? The car***8217;s initial reactions set off alarm bells. The body heels over and, if the pavement gets wavy, the nose also bobs considerably. Body motions are more tightly controlled in a Buick. But, what do you know, despite all the swaying and bobbing there***8217;s no weaving. The 3er adheres faithfully to your specified line.
I'll rent a minivan and run it hard on the nurburgring. Because sports car. :facepalm:E46 is a sports car, well to all of those who are fanatics out there. Because we most certainly drive them that way.
If I took basketball shoes and ran around a track, they would become running shoes.
I may be late in my response but don't let the preloading thing put you off one bit. I overthought it for a couple years and when I actually went to do the job I realized it was largely paranoia. Just realign the carrier in the general angle it came out (mine in particular lined up PERFECTLY with a line on the trailing arm.) You'll have to rotate the bracket on the trailing arm slightly before applying final torque otherwise once you torque it down, the bracket will rotate slightly causing the final angle to be off. You'll see what I mean when you actually do it. no biggy!Ok.I think I'm going attempt the RTAB . I'm reading about having to preload unless I get the powerflex.
Can someone tell me how the powerflex feels for normal day to day driving. I don't
want a hard feel every bump ride , will the powerflex give me this ride?
So preloading is pretty much tightening the center bolt while measuring from center hub
to top of fender which the DIY below explains. Doesn't seem like a big deal but if powerflex provides a good ride
I rather go with that. I was thinking of ordering the Meyle HD rears on BMA for like 18 bucks.
also the power flex below seem to not have that metal around the rubber bushing. I do see a slotted part.
where it be obvious where that slot needs to be lined up to the housing bracket?
Yes the red ones are the trailing arm bushings. The other bushings don't see the same forces/load/wear as the trailing arm does since the trailing arm bushing is at the end of a long arm. The other bushings are typically lifetime but is good to replace them anyways as you approach 200,000 miles. They require a special tool set and is best to do when the entire subframe is down. It's a big nasty job.I a little confused as to which bushings in the rear I need to change. Are these the lower and upper rear control bushings?
and then it seems I need to also install
Is the below statent referring to the blue parts? what's the red part called?
Replace these at 60,000+ miles. Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer. You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.
I'm trying to determine which bushings in the DIY the video below changed? did he just change the blue ones. Why would the red one not be changed at the same time?
Thanks for the nice words and recommendation. I think Jake would say "there's too many stickies." He's probably right.Can a mod please sticky this as with the cooling system guide? Things like this are great for quick reference for anyone who's looking to refresh their car or for their own knowledge. Granted, cooling system threads pop up every day irrespective of Mango's other sticky so... ehhh. Feels like I'm accomplishing nothing by posting this. *Shrug*