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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided to start a new thread and tag it with as many tags as made sense for this procedure. One of my passenger side bolt holes was stripped. After consulting a bunch of folks here on the forum, I decided to go with a Timesert kit. I bought the Timesert M10x1.5 kit with the 14mm sleeves. It was just over $100 shipped from Mechanics Tools and Bits. That even got me five additional 17mm sleeves I hope I never need.

The kit includes a 13/32nds drill bit to clean out the old threads, a counterbore tool that you will not need, a tap for the Timesert sleeve and an insertion tool.

Drilling out the hole was a huge challenge for me. Others with better drills might find it easier. I used a 3/8 (12/32nds) bit first because I could not even get the supplied bit to work as it just grabbed every time. Pre-drilling with the 3/8th metal bit helped a lot. I went excruciatingly slowly because even after pre-drilling, the 13/32nds bit grabbed a lot. But it took about 45 minutes to get a clean hole for the tap.

You will not need the counterbore as it won't fit and you do not want to monkey with the alignment dowel other than cleaning it and doing a quick emery cloth pass the eliminate burrs.

The big challenges with this job are that the metal of the bolt hole is very hard and the Timesert sleeve has a seating flange that you will need to grind down just a bit. I used a Dremel and it took me 15 minutes to get it to fit. I just kept trying to insert the Timesert sleeve the wrong way (flange side first) until it just cleared and snugged up nicely inside the alignment dowel. I ground it down just enough to fit nicely inside the dowel.

I took a lot of time and care with the tap. The metal is very hard and you're essentially upside down so the cutting oil needs to be applied often. I removed the tool every turn to turn and a half to clean the tap of all the chips and relube the tap. I also took a round wire brush and gently cleaned inside the hole between turns. Took me about an hour but, as I said, I went very slowly so as not to screw this up.

Once I was deep enough to account for the alignment dowel height and the 14mm sleeve, I was done cutting threads. I did a final clean out and started the insertion of the Timesert sleeve. Lube the tool before inserting and screwing into the Timesert sleeve. It will stop about a millimeter before the bottom. This is where the internal threads are not fully formed and the tool pushes through an extra 6mm or so to push them out and "lock" the sleeve in place. Now you are ready to install the Timesert sleeve into your newly cut bolt hole. The turning will be a bit hard for a few revolutions as the insertion tool completes its job. The you feel it get easier and you know you've properly seated the Timesert sleeve.

I removed the insertion tool and installed the M10x35 1.5 bolt that came with the bushing. It torqued to 44 perfectly. I was very happy with the process and also that I was able to stay with the BMW spec'd bolt for this application.

The Timesert worked great. I hope others find this helpful if you get a stripped CAB lollipop bolt hole.

(I've edited this to make very clear the distinction between the Timesert sleeve and the alignment dowel, which, as @Effduration correctly pointed out might be confusing as the alignment dowel is also a sleeve of sorts.)
 
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I bought the Timesert M10x1.5 kit with the 14mm sleeves. It was just over $100 shipped from Mechanics Tools and Bits. That even got me five additional 17mm sleeves I hope I never need.
The bolts are around 30mm thread length, so why not use a longer Timesert than just 14mm long? Why not 17 or 25mm? 14mm seems a bit short for this.
Drilling out the hole was a huge challenge for me. Others with better drills might find it easier. I used a 3/8 (12/32nds) bit first because I could not even get the supplied bit to work as it just grabbed every time. Pre-drilling with the 3/8th metal bit helped a lot. I went excruciatingly slowly because even after pre-drilling, the 13/32nds bit grabbed a lot. But it took about 45 minutes to get a clean hole for the tap.
45 minutes per hole, imagine I did this for the 14 holes on the tilted engine block when my head bolts pulled the threads off the engine block when wife overheated the engine badly. But I saved it.

I removed the sleeve and installed the M10x35 1.5 bolt that came with the bushing.
You meant the Timesert insertion tool, not the sleeve (Timesert)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bolts are around 30mm thread length, so why not use a longer Timesert than just 14mm long? Why not 17 or 25mm? 14mm seems a bit short for this.

45 minutes per hole, imagine I did this for the 14 holes on the tilted engine block when my head bolts pulled the threads off the engine block when wife overheated the engine badly. But I saved it.


You meant the Timesert insertion tool, not the sleeve (Timesert)
I fixed that mistake at the end about the tool vs the sleeve. Thanks for catching that. You only really need the 14mm because if you take the actual 29 mm of threaded length (due to the 2mm washer), subtract the depth of the mount plate (15mm) you really don't need any more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I removed the tool every turn to turn and a half to clean the tap of all the chips and relube the tap.

This was key!
It really was. I was in no big hurry and even doing this, it snagged a lot. I used a syringe to inject oil and kept it all very slow and deliberate. But wiping away the chips is super critical, yes.
 

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Nice...and nice write-up...Congrats on a successful repair

I was confused with the word "sleeve" in your write-up..particularly so in this discussion with the dowel also being a central issue to the solution...The dowel is like a sleeve to me.

Can I suggest you edit your post to read "...sleeve (thread insert).... " or similar the first time you use the word sleeve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice...and nice write-up...Congrats on a successful repair

I was confused with the word "sleeve" in your write-up..particularly so in this discussion with the dowel also being a central issue to the solution...The dowel is like a sleeve to me.

Can I suggest you edit your post to read "...sleeve (thread insert).... " or similar the first time you use the word sleeve?
Excellent suggesting. Edited to be more clear about that distinction.
 

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Well done! I'm impressed you got a timesert to work.

And thanks for taking the time to write it up- that's really the right way to fix the thing once and for all.

t
 

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I stripped both of my passenger side FCAB bolt holes trying to force it in, I did the driver side with no problem by hand after learning my lesson. This is the first time I've done this type of work.


I found your thread and I have a few questions as Id essentially be doing this same exact thing, except twice.


What drill did you use to tap the initial 13/32 hole? I have a regular hammer drill from milwaukee, and the bits it takes are round. Did you just stick the bit in far enough that it grabbed the round part?

How did you turn the tap? Did you get a tap wrench? Or attach it to something else?


Did you have to remove material from the alignment dowel? I measured with a caliper just over 11.5mm ID on the dowel. The diameter for the TAP for the timesert says .474 inches or just over 12mm. Did the tap fit through the dowel just fine?

What did you use for lubrication? Cutting oil?


Appreciate any help 🙏
 

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Just as an FYI I ended up tapping the hole to an m12. The dowel did not need to be modified. Bolt fit in great. The only thing was that I had to bore out the hole for the lollipop/control arm bracket by about 1mm so that the m12 bolt would fit. Used a grade 8 m12 as thats just a bit stronger than a grade 10 m10, grade 10 m12 would be way overkill.
 
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