Sounds like you bent/warped the rotor.

 

No chance. The screwdriver would be ripped apart before the rotor gets warped by it. What else did you take apart?

Out of curiosity, why didn't you pop the center cap out of the wheel, mount the wheel, drop the car back on the ground then tighten the axle nut?

 

What brand axle? (Can't set strike through text using my phone??)

Nevermind, you just replaced a boot ...

Get the wheel off and inspect the rotor for any issues or runout.

Also check your tires for any nails or screws lodged in the threads. I've had that throw off balance before, although usually it doesnt.

 

What brand axle?

It's the oem axle I just changed the inner boot.

 

I don’t think it’s the screwdriver maneuver to be honest. I did the same when I replaced my rear wheel bearings and it was fine. The screwdriver was between the rotor vanes and the caliper bracket, both very sturdy platforms.

 

I figured it was the brakes because of the way the brakes were malfunctioning. Could be the axle I guess I just can't fathom what.

 

I'm trying to think if you could have hit part of the parking brake assembly. You adjust it by sticking a screwdriver in through a lug hole. You may have broken it, adjusted it, mildly damaged it (my guess).

If you haven't removed the rotor and looked yet, I would.

 

Disassemble the brakes on the side with the "screwdriver" . Carefully inspect the brake carrier. If need be also yank the other side and compare the two.
This is assuming (as someone else eluded to) you performed no other brake work?

Is the noise you hear possibly the ABS/DSC activating for whatever reason?
Master cylinders really don't make much noise, other than the plunger going in/out and the faint sound of fluid being displaced.

 

Hi all, after more researching and staring at my car I think I've found the culprit, or at least it seems very likely. Yes it is the braking system, but no it wasn't the screwdriver move that did it. When hammering the axle into the hub I briefly used a pry bar against the back of the outer CV joint. I only hit it there a couple times because I saw it was driving a groove into it so I stopped. What i didn't realize is that there is a ring around the joint that the abs system uses. This ring came loose and appears to be damaged now. There was a lot of corrosion too so it didn't take much to dislodge and damage it. I dont know much about the abs system but I think this may be it. Check out this photo, you can see how the ring got nudged forward. Moving it back doesn't work, it's too loose.

 

If it's not moving at a corresponding speed with the other 3 +/- 1.2% the ABS/DSC system will intervene.

 

You're going to need another axle.
Also check the sensor for having been rubbed on by that reluctor wheel.

 

Ah dam really? Just because of the ring? Is it because it is so precisely made?

 

Damn that sucks ... unforunately there is no notch or other area on the outer joint to hammer on with a pry bar like many other cars have. I don't know if there is another safe way to do it, but I picked up a drive axle puller tool off of ebay to deal with stubborn axle splines like this:

7Pc Drive Shaft Pulling Puller Extractor Tool Kit Set Drive Axle Pull-out tool | eBay

This is a brand new drive axle pull-out tool, equipped with six different sizes of adapters (M16-M30), can be applied to different models. Specification: Material: carbon steel Applicable vehicle type:It is suitable for Subaru,Volkswagen Beetle, Touareg ,Porsche Cayenne, BMW(E30 E32 E34 E36 E38...

www.ebay.com

 

How's the sensor? The one section of the reluctor wheel (~4-5 O: Clock) looks lifted. Did it rub against the sensor?

 

 

I've seen worse, you'll likely get away with it. ...;>))
If it throws a code, might...need a new one.

 

Ok I'll plug it back in and see what happens. Hopefully the new ring works.

 

The ring either out of position relative to the pickup sensor or the ring is not round and the pick up to ring's tooth have varying air gap causing distorted signals. Try to round the ring again and align it as before.

 

If that's doable.
Most of the time we witness rust buildup form under the reluctor ring. The accumulation forces the ring outwards, and over time it gets worse and higher. Then it eats the sensor.

On some of my customers cars we actually spray wd or penetrating oil when on the lift to try and fend off mother nature.

It's a lousy design. I prefer the ring when it's installed inside the bearing, as in later cars.

 

Threads like this, where random things go wrong when trying to fix stuff, and a new secret about the E46 half shafts is revealed to me, is why I keep coming back here to read more! I had always thought that metal slotted ring was just some sort of clamp for the half shaft boot, period. I had zero idea that it was actually used with the ABS sensor in tandem! Very cool info here, could save more people if something like this ever happens especially as these cars age and rust is everywhere.

 

That's what I thought, that it was just a cable tie of sorts. Who knew disturbing it could make your car completely undriveable. Thankfully disconnecting the sensor returns the car to normal driveability.

 

Had this happen to my ZHP (didn't use a screwdriver but took the rotor off to do some maintenance on the hardware), make sure you clean behind the rotor and it fits flush, sounds like either your disc is not flush or the torque on the wheel nuts are not even.

After three or four times taking it off, scrubbing it, putting it back together, etc, etc, etc. smooth as a baby's butt.

 

UPDATE: RELUCTOR RING REPLACEMENT

Hello again to respondents to this thread. I have finally recieved and installed a new reluctor ring from reluctorrings.com onto my rear axle and it appears to have worked. The installation took me about 2 1/2 hours including removing and installing the axle. The cost, including shipping, is about $85 USD depending on GBP conversion rate. Fitting instructions are included but you can also view them on the website:

ABS Reluctor Rings - Fitting Slotted Rings

Replacement ABS Reluctor Rings for many makes of car

reluctorrings.com

Here's some photos and tips for the procedure as I did it:

Important! Be sure to measure the diameter of your reluctor ring before you order one from reluctorings.com. I originally went by the fitment for my 330xi listed on the website and it turned out to be incorrect and I had to send it back and order the correct one. There are two options: 93.9 mm inside diameter and 78.9 ID. Mine was 78.9 but yours could be the other.

1. Remove axle And remove ABS sensor from hub carrier.

2. Remove old reluctor ring. Mine came loose with brief jabs at the base of it with a dull prybar.

3. Using a stiff wire brush and a strip of sandpaper, clean the area where the ring sits:

4. I used a section of 3 inch PVC pipe to hammer the ring into place but if you have the 93.9mm ring you will need something with a larger diameter. Or you can use a solid block of some sort and evenly hammer it into place. The instructions recommend using threadlocker on it but I did not, it was a really snug fit. You may want to opt for it though. If it seems like it really wont fit, sand off a little material if you need but keep in mind that you want it to be nice and snug so it wont come loose.

Evenly hammer the ring into place until the top of the ring is flush with the outside face of the joint. I ran my finger over it as a reference:

5. Re-install axle and ABS sensor, clear the codes and go for a test drive.