Maybe buy a thread spark plug repair kit?

 

There exists some Helicoil spark plug repair kits. I don't have experience with them, but be really careful if you decide to keep the head on the engine, since tapping a new thread can cause metal shavings to end up into the cilinders. So apply some grease onto the tap to try to let the shavings stick to the tap. Also make sure to blow out the cilinder as good as you can after tapping the new thread.

 

Just turn that cylinder to most top position. Any debries you can blow out with compressed air or very high powered suction.

 

I will probably be ridiculed and I have never done this before but I read one time that people actually fill up the cylinder with shaving cream before repairing the SP threads.

It is supposed catch any metal shavings and you can suck out all debris along with the foamy substance. Not sure if anyone here has any experience doing this.

 

I'm nowhere near my tools, I have a 14mmx1.25 repair kit, I have grease to catch debris, I have a 19mm socket and wrench, no extentions. Ignition coil is toast but if I can return compression I can limp for a new coil. This engine is basically fodder now.

I'm so angry, it appears the late cancer ridden prior owner did SOMETHING to keep that plug in while he sold it. Even made 12k miles with little issues.

 

Mate, I can understand you're angry, but please don't talk about that disease like that.

 

I know its inconvenient, but its hardly the end of the world. At least it's a straight six cyl, with decent access to the spark plug hole.. Be glad it's not a v6 or v8...

You live in Maine, right? Have it towed home if you don't want to fix it on the road.

We should all have some towing plan - AAA, Hagerty, etc. for situations like this.

 

I know its inconvenient, but its hardly the end of the world. At least it's a straight six cyl, with decent access to the spark plug hole.. Be glad it's not a v6 or v8...

You live in Maine, right? Have it towed home if you don't want to fix it on the road.

We should all have some towing plan - AAA, Hagerty, etc. for situations like this.

I don't want to bore you with the unnecessary details. I'm literally working with nothing for tools or resources. I spent what little I have left on the rethread kit and a new plug. The new plug just drops into the head. I had used some tape try and keep the plug in the cylinder to try and keep compression but failed. My 19mm socket I have with me won't fit far enough to turn the tap. I have a micro packet of grease to catch shavings if I do find a socket small enough to turn the tap. I have red rtv to adhere the new thread sleeve to the head. I'm literally stuck at turning the tap.

 

I did a Time Sert for this on my F250. It's tedious but possible. You will need one of the kits here:

+ TIME-SERT® SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIR KITS + spark plug stripped thread repair kits for spark plug problems, thread stripped spark plug repairs in damaged threads in spark plug hole stripped out approved thread repair, aluminum head spark plug repair

stripped out threads, damaged threads, blown out sparkplugs, stripped thread, stripped out theads, helicoils, ford sparkplug repair, repair ford sparkplugs blew out with time-sert, thread repair problems, spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out...

www.timesert.com

M14 X1.25 maybe?
Get a borescope too. Want to make sure that the piston is down and the valves are closed so you don't hit them with the tap. I put grease in the tap flutes and didn't have issues with metal shavings.

 

I had this happen a couple years ago on the highway about 40 miles from home. Car was not driveable. Coil was destroyed. It barely had enough power to drive up onto my trailer the following day.

I bought a timesert kit via Amazon. Used grease as suggested when tapping head. Blew compressed air in the cylinder. Vacuumed it out too. This was about 20k miles ago I think. The shaving cream idea is intriguing.

Reason for my blow out was incorrect spark plugs were installed when I bought it. When I removed the incorrect plug it pulled the threads out of the head, at least partially. I was able to torque the new plugs, but obviously there was material missing, hence the plug blow out.

Search the forum. There are some threads out there documenting the repair.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1003021030

if thats too expensive just look up stripped hexnut removal, also if you need anymore help I live in midcoast maine so I might be able to help you in person if the need arises 😊

 

I've got a kit with a tap and insert, I can't get a socket far enough down the spark well to turn it. The car runs but not well. I've got it limped somewhere safe but without breaking down the engine I do not have the tools.

On top of it all, I can't even consult the previous owner and how he bandaided it.

 

Ah shit yeah that is a drag, sorry to hear that man. I’m not exactly sure what else to do, are you saying that you can get a socket deep enough to fit over the spark plug?

 

I've found a 19mm Spark plug socket. Which is on the way, upon arrival we shall see if I can turn the tap. Just may have the beast back on the road again. If this fails I'm going to have to break the upper part of the valvetrain down to get better access. Hoping for the best, preparing for the worst.

 

It was the worst, still too large to fit down the last 25mm and get the tap to bite. Without breaking down the engine to the head, the clearances in the spark wells is way to thin for a 19mm tap. The soft aluminum head doesn't need alot of force to cut it, the larger hex makes more torque but engines which use the smaller plugs are rarely made of a metal hard enough to warrant such a large tap. Why not just use the same size as the spark plug socket?!

Anyways, continuing on my search to find a method that does not require breaking down the engine. Wish me luck.

 

Time-Sert® M14x1.25 Spark Plug Thread Repair kit p/n 4412E-111 https://a.co/d/5kALaqk

I know this fits. It is what I used for mine.

 

This has been mentioned a few times but this particular listing is unavailable and has no time frame in which it will be restocked. The timesert website lists it at just under 300 dollars and that's just not feasible being out of work.

 

I see it is no longer available. If you follow the link there appears to be a similar kit, but Holy hell on the price. When I bought mine in May 2021 it was $240. I bought an extra pack inserts also.

 

Heres anothing to loose trying suggestion.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804944844953.html

 

The head is tapped, insert and spark plug in place. Now we wait for the threadlocker to cure. T-24 Hours

Edit:
It's not perfect, but it seems tight and threaded smoothly. First time ever doing this, all the other vehicles I've had I have been meticulous about spark plugs and torque. Will check back in after initial testing.

 

I am happy to report my fix is holding and the car runs once again. Could not have done it without the information provided here, truly appreciate forums like this.

 

Thanks for the follow-up... Based on the research you did, I want to emphasize that this 5/8 drive kit worked in your M54 engine (while others did not):

OEMTools #25649 14mm re-thread tool

https://a.co/d/al1UYHe

Which length inserts did you use?
Did you need to grind down a 5/8 socket to fit in the cylinder bore?

 

I'm currently in the same boat except I'm somewhere with access to whatever tools I need. Currently have the OEMTools spark plug repair system kit 25647 M14 x 1.25 in my possession. but second guessing it and considering holding out a few days for the proper Time Sert kit.

Has the OEMTools solution been holding up so far?

 

I'm currently in the same boat except I'm somewhere with access to whatever tools I need. Currently have the OEMTools spark plug repair system kit 25647 M14 x 1.25 in my possession. but second guessing it and considering holding out a few days for the proper Time Sert kit.

Has the OEMTools solution been holding up so far?

I’ve put almost 7k miles on the OEM tools kit and it’s holding great. 14x1.25 is the right measurement and the plug has been tight and dry since.

I’ve had it at redline a couple times and had it on a few 40+ mile trips with no issues. I’ve read that you’re looking at the other kits, any kit that uses a larger size hex than a 5/8ths will not fit into the spark well with a socket on it. The OEM tools kit has a 5/8th head and clears the walls of the well with a standard 5/8ths socket.

 

Update: Checked the plug and threads to see their condition and to my surprise the fix is still holding nearly 2 years later and 30,000 miles.

yes it’s seen redline multiple times. Yes I drive this car like it’s supposed to.