What speakers can I put in my 323 coupe to replace the stock speakers. I am keeping the headunit and amps stock. How would the new componets be installed (crossovers etc...?) Does the stock BMW amp have it own built in crossover?
if you change the stock speakers, you should change the amps too. The stock speakers can actually handle more power than the stock amp provides, I ran them for a week or two off an alpine f540 and they sounded better than stock.
If you change the stock speakers, you may not have to change the amp, but you do run into a few issues. I have a 2000 328Ci so we probably have a similar setup. I am just getting started and have put Boston Accoustic Pros in the doors..... but I am not done yet.
1. The none HK BMW system has three separates, woofer, mid and tweeter, most after markets contain two separater a driver and a tweet.
2. Three to Two wouldn't be an issue if.... you could get a full signal to tap the new crossovers into. But, the crossovers are internal to the amp, thus NYCM3's comment, and for a little more money probably the easiest thing to do.
3. Supposedly the mid has no upper crossover point and uses natural roll off of the mid, so you can use this to drive the tweeter, and leave the factory feed to the tweeter disconnected. If this is true, then you have a full spectrum sound going to the new seperates and you are all set. I have yet to confirm this as the factory cross over point may be too low and therefore damage the new tweeter. I am trying to find the crossover points to the factory system, but as of yet no avail.
4. The factory system uses 8 ohm for the mid and tweet, and 2 ohm for the driver. As far as I know, and my knowledge is limited, most aftermarket separates are 4 ohm. The problem with this is your new tweeters will be louder, possibly much louder, than the driver. The way to fix this is to add resistors in series or parallel as necessary to change the impedence back to what the amp is used to seeing. I have been told by some that this will require the amp to work a little harder for the same volume, but others, such as an electrical engineer tell me no. I have the resistors on order and hope to install them this weekend and prove out the system.
Uuugggghhh, the frustration, oh, maybe it is the fun, of figuring this stuff out.
As far as replacement speakers, Boston Accoustic, MB Quart, Focal, A/D/S and JL are all good, and many say that any one of them, because of cost cutting, corporate philosophy, or new parent companies aren't what they used to be and are junk. I believe there is one hard and fast rule to buying speakers. Buy what sounds good to you. Take a couple of cd's, one with a good bass line, another with good vocals both male and female, another with horns, and another with strings.... and go listen, buy the ones you like.
for your mid/bass, i meant to say that you *can* add a 4ohmer in parallel to sort of match get a resulting 2 ohms but it won't do anything for you but use up power. your volume won't change. so there's no point to adding one. ... unless someone will care to correct me. :dunno:
I installed a set of Rodek RC164RP today, it's a 6,5" component set. High is actually LESS harsh and lows got much more bass.
Soundwise it even sounds better than the BMW options of speakers. I only swapped speakers!!!
The tweeters in the E46 stock system get full power and are very hard on the ears when you listen to music giving that hollow tones. With the composet (huge passive crossover distributing sounds over the mid woofer and tweeter) it sounds warm, crisp.
In the rear I put 6,5" coaxials.
To fit 6,5" in the front doors, you need to dremel the plastic ridge of the doorcard, otherwise the speaker won't fit. Just do it, your ears will thank you for it.
To replace the rear shelf speakers, do you guys need to fabricate something to make the speakers fit so that you can screw it down? The MB Quarts that I have (6.5") is smaller than the hole and the stock speakers have protruding plastic piece that you screw into. How do you guys fit regular speakers back there?
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