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Hi, just want to tell you guys that I also had this problem.

I replaced part 2, but the cluncking was still there. :(

After trying to find the problem, I replaced part # 1 and the cluncking was gone :excited:

I would strongly recommend to check part # 1, if you already replaced part # 2 and still have "cluncking" sounds.

 

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Could a worn coupler cause steering wheel jerk when braking?

I have had a problem with a moderate steering wheel twitch or jerk when a first apply the brakes, firmly, at just about any speed. There's no continued wheel movement after the first application of brakes, so I don't think it is warped rotors. In any case, my car is still under warranty and the dealership first replaced the control arm bushings, which helped a little at first, but the problem continued. They most recently replaced the steering rack and again, the wheel twitching seemed to be gone for a few days, but has now returned, though it is not as pronounced. I don't think there should be any jerking or twitching on my steering wheel when I brake, so I'm going to take it back yet again. Could this steering column coupler be the culprit? My car has just over 30K on it, btw.

Thanks,
Scott
 

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for those who dont know where this coupler is, here are some photos. These are taken from the front-left jack point, looking up towards the engine.




closer
 

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Ok I'm in the same boat.

  • steering wheel play
  • slight knocking noise when "shaking" the steering wheel left to right with the car off
  • Car shimmys when at the point where I first apply the brakes (shimmy goes away for the remainder of the braking process)
My main concern is my third issue as this is the most noticable. I've replaced just about everything but the steering rack and steering column parts. When the car is on a lift, and you grab and shake one of the front wheels, you can see there is quiet a bit of play in the steering rack. However, if the lower coupling and or steering column is worn, this could also cause the play that I saw in the steering rack looking from below up, right?

After reading this thread, I'm pretty sure my part#1 or #2 is worn. I think I'll just replace both of them since I'm down there. I really don't want to replace the steering rack.

Does anyone know if I replace #1 and #2, if this will eliminate the brake shimmy I am experiencing?
 

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The cap below part #2 has a little indicator mark scribed on it, and the top scribe-line MUST line up with the bottom scribe-line (on the part below the cap). Another way to say the same thing, is that the bottom bolt on part #2 (the guibo) MUST be pointing east when you look up at it. Otherwise the guibo won't slide on to the steering rack. However, when the bottom bolt points due East, a 3/8" drive external torx socket will not fit because it is too long and conflicts with the oil pan, but you can use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket, carefully, so as to not round off the bolt.

This repair took out about 80% of the minor play in the steering wheel on my 112,000 mile 325i.
 

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Been meaning to post in this thread for a while - I changed the same part, and now my steering feels like brand new. When I took my old one off, I wasn't sure if the new one would help, as I couldn't feel any play or see any excessive wear on the old part. But as soon as I fitted the new one and took the car out it was like driving a different car. Thanks very much OP, saved me a fortune :thumbsup:
 

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I don't have any noises or play in the steering wheel, but a twitch/jerk of the steering wheel over bumps and uneven surfaces. I just replaced the flexible coupler and it made things significantly better but didn't eliminate it entirely. Previously I did the CA bushings, sway bar links and bracket bushings, tie rod ends and had a 4-wheel alignment, and the struts were replaced 8k ago, car has 101K. Two separate, competent indy mechanics have told me the ball joints are good. Any thoughts about what else it might be?
 

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Hi,
I have something similar :- Need your advice<---
Ok, I am referring to my previous post on which I got some suggestions from folks here...
This is what was going on:-

I have a 1999 323i with 93K miles done and babied well!!. Recently I got the tie rods and bushes changed followed by new tires and alignment etc.
Off late, whenever I apply sudden brakes (not gradual), the steering wheel gets a jerk. The same thing happens whenever the car gets into one of the famous bumpy NJ roads. The steering wheel gets a jerk as if someone shaked the steering wheel (not necessarily in any particular direction)

After getting feedback on the above, I did the following:-
Took the car to my mechanic and he raised the car, checked the tie rods--looked fine, bushings---fine.
Per him, the TIS mentioned (installing a restrictor Valve on my NON DSC car) might cause troubles later on and is not even guaranteed if that would do the magic, however , we did find one of the calipers a little lose, but would that explain the jerk on the steering when the car goes over a pot hole, is of question..
So, at this point, I am totally clueless and desperately need help as its a bad feeling I am currently having while driving my car..
 

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Great info but Ewwwwwww - what model has those two metal plates?

That is like bomb armour - I am soooo happy I just have one light dust cover made of plastic!
 

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My 2001 330Ci has the large aluminum plate. I don't think it's a good idea to remove it to replace the steering coupling. I bet the alignment could be out of spec. JMVHO :str8pimpi
 

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I'm still struggling to find the cause of my bump steer. Replaced the coupling, tie rods, CA bushings, sway links and bracket bushings, 4-wheel alignment and still get an aggravating twitch/jerk of the steering wheel over uneven surfaces. No noises, clunks or other symptoms of suspension problems, and car tracks straight. I'm still confounded and frustrated. :banghead:
 

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Great info but Ewwwwwww - what model has those two metal plates?

That is like bomb armour - I am soooo happy I just have one light dust cover made of plastic!
My car's an '04 325i sedan. I have the 2 metal plates -- one heavier steel plate installed right below the aluminum plate. Probably installed on Euro-version cars since the models here in my part of the world closely follow the Euro versions than the US versions (i.e. we have the additional compartment on the driver's side below the headlamp controls).

I like it that I have it since the aluminum one doesn't warp when I jack it up. Must some kind of added protection or added chassis rigidity.
 

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I'm still struggling to find the cause of my bump steer. Replaced the coupling, tie rods, CA bushings, sway links and bracket bushings, 4-wheel alignment and still get an aggravating twitch/jerk of the steering wheel over uneven surfaces. No noises, clunks or other symptoms of suspension problems, and car tracks straight. I'm still confounded and frustrated. :banghead:
First....you need to understand what causes bump steering....it took me a bit of time....but what happens is one side of the suspension travels too far up/down compared to the other side....which pulls on the tie rod and jerks the steering wheel.

To fix this problem...you need to tighten up your suspension...make it stiff...so it the difference between left and right suspension in travel is very min. I fixed it with my KW V1 coilovers. Keep in mind...a bit of bump steer is normal....but only if one wheel falls in a hole or goes over a bump and the other does not.

Your stock shocks are probably worn....or it could be your sway bars also.
 

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Does anyone's steering wheel squeek a little when turned slightly from side to side at slow speeds? Would this fix that problem? Also, how much play is too much play? I can wiggle mine some, but isn't that normal?

Weirdest thing for me is that ever since I got my CA bushings replaced, I sometimes get a shake in the steering wheel at certain speeds. However, I think it is tied to the type of road I am on, because at the same speed on different roads, no vibration. Wondering if maybe replacing this part will tighten all that up.

Thoughts?
 

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This did not fix my vibration, although my steering is slightly tighter. Despite what people on here say, this was a beast to put back together. Also, now my steering wheel sits slightly crooked. I have NO idea how this can even happen, since the steering coupling is designed to fit splined parts...it can only fit in one way.

So frustrated right now!

NicB.
 

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This did not fix my vibration, although my steering is slightly tighter. Despite what people on here say, this was a beast to put back together. Also, now my steering wheel sits slightly crooked. I have NO idea how this can even happen, since the steering coupling is designed to fit splined parts...it can only fit in one way.

So frustrated right now!

NicB.
Hey, don't be frustrated. I know what your talking about, as far as steering wheel being slightly crooked after replacement. I replaced mine and same issue. Just lossen the coupler and re-align. I found that the plastic alignment tab is really flimsy and allows varriation in mounting position. The coupling position must be exact --the slightest deviation can be expressed in crooked steering. Good luck.

Thank you to the originator of of this post. I found replacing the coupling to cure all ill effects listed. All this time I thought it was caused by suspension issues.:bow:
 

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I can try man...I had a really tough time getting that bastard back together. I had to wriggle both arms up there, spray with WD-40 and pull like hell to get the thing to snap into place. I'm a little nervous to take it apart again. I tried putting it together like 10 times...don't know how much variation there could be in that tab.
 
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