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2005 330xi Auto, 2006 330ci Vert Auto
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Did the smoke test earlier today and found smoke coming from the bottom of the intake manifold. I'm going to take off the intake manifold, and recheck all the vacuum lines.
You mentioned that you replaced the CCV so make sure you check that too. I find it helpful to use an inspection mirror to identify the source of the leak(s) from the smoke test before taking things apart. This way you can narrow down the areas to inspect. Keep in mind you may have multiple leaks. Good luck.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
You mentioned that you replaced the CCV so make sure you check that too. I find it helpful to use an inspection mirror to identify the source of the leak(s) from the smoke test before taking things apart. This way you can narrow down the areas to inspect. Keep in mind you may have multiple leaks. Good luck.
Yeah the CCV wasn't fully connected to the oil dipstick tube so it was leaking. Also the bottom my of intake boot wasn't fully connected either. However, once I took off the intake manifold I found out I lost 2 pieces that are inserted at the top right of where the gasket goes. I have one but no clue where the other one went. It looks like this:here what is it and would it cause my car not to start? Also, there is a lot of build up within the intake manifold, how should I clean it?
 

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Yeah the CCV wasn't fully connected to the oil dipstick tube so it was leaking. Also the bottom my of intake boot wasn't fully connected either. However, once I took off the intake manifold I found out I lost 2 pieces that are inserted at the top right of where the gasket goes
A negative maintenance. 2 pieces dropped off and didn't even know.
Those pieces with holes for creating a whirl turbulent in the combustion as the air jet entering only one valve -- not equal symmetrical flow if both valves having the same air flow in. This helps to mix the fuel/air better. You have a large air leak with the missing pieces.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A negative maintenance. 2 pieces dropped off and didn't even know.
Those pieces with holes for creating a whirl turbulent in the combustion as the air jet entering only one valve -- not equal symmetrical flow if both valves having the same air flow in. This helps to mix the fuel/air better. You have a large air leak with the missing pieces.
That makes sense, I double checked most things I guess those pieces got passed me.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That makes sense, I double checked most things I guess those pieces got passed me.
Couldn't find the pieces on realoem or any retailer so I got some from the junk yard and almost done putting everything back in. I also believe the check valve was in the wrong direction, black being towards the intake boot side. I'm hoping I can get it started tomorrow! Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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2005 330xi Auto, 2006 330ci Vert Auto
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This is what the check valve on the back of the intake manifold should look like. Ignore the numbers and the red lines. I'm simply reusing an old image that I used for another purpose......

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bicycle part Rim Motorcycle accessories
 

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325i Touring
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I had the same codes occasionally pop up for a while before the car eventually started misfiring one day, then would die a second after it started.
Not saying with 100% certainty that's what's causing your issues, but in my case it was a bad coil... If the coils and spark plugs are still original/overdue a replacement, that could actually be what's causing it instead.
 

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Great! I had it on the right way. What problems would switching the direction cause?
Short answer - your secondary air pump (SAP) would not be able to pump air into the exhaust manifold likely popping a code.

Long answer - the one-way valve (black/white), the solenoid that is connected to the one-way valve, and associated vacuum hoses are used to actuate the SAP injection control valve. It looks something like this and it's mounted to the exhaust manifold. (Note there are two different versions of this control valve so yours may or may not look like this picture.)

Bicycle part Rim Auto part Nickel Metal


If you connect the black/white one-way valve the wrong way, this control valve would not get the necessary vacuum signal to open, therefore even if your SAP does run, it wouldn't be able to inject air into the exhaust manifold.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I had the same codes occasionally pop up for a while before the car eventually started misfiring one day, then would die a second after it started.
Not saying with 100% certainty that's what's causing your issues, but in my case it was a bad coil... If the coils and spark plugs are still original/overdue a replacement, that could actually be what's causing it instead.
I got a brand new valve cover, coils, and spark plugs thinking it would solve my problems. Bad idea! Fixed nothing.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Short answer - your secondary air pump (SAP) would not be able to pump air into the exhaust manifold likely popping a code.

Long answer - the one-way valve (black/white), the solenoid that is connected to the one-way valve, and associated vacuum hoses are used to actuate the SAP injection control valve. It looks something like this and it's mounted to the exhaust manifold. (Note there are two different versions of this control valve so yours may or may not look like this picture.)

View attachment 966427

If you connect the black/white one-way valve the wrong way, this control valve would not get the necessary vacuum signal to open, therefore even if your SAP does run, it wouldn't be able to inject air into the exhaust manifold.
Thank You! I don’t remember how it was positioned before I took it off but it’s now in the correct orientation. I now need to put the throttle body, ICV, disa, and intake boot and I’m good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thank You! I don’t remember how it was positioned before I took it off but it’s now in the correct orientation. I now need to put the throttle body, ICV, disa, and intake boot and I’m good.
I have great and bad news.I doubled checked all my work but it still wouldn't start, checked fuel pressure while cranking it was 30 PSI. I cranked it then revved to 2k rpm for 10-15 secs turned it off then turned it back on and now its about 45 psi and idles perfectly, is that good or bad(that i had to rev it)? Also, white smoke would come out of the exhaust when I start and rev the car, why would this be happening? Last thing, AC blower is now shot, I'd say 3/4 of the power lost. On full blast, barely anything come out and noise of the A/C blowing is very noticeable outside of the car, not sure if that was the way it was before, but im guessing a leak but no clue where to start. Thank you all for the help!
 

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2005 330xi Auto, 2006 330ci Vert Auto
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I have great and bad news.I doubled checked all my work but it still wouldn't start, checked fuel pressure while cranking it was 30 PSI. I cranked it then revved to 2k rpm for 10-15 secs turned it off then turned it back on and now its about 45 psi and idles perfectly, is that good or bad(that i had to rev it)? Also, white smoke would come out of the exhaust when I start and rev the car, why would this be happening? Last thing, AC blower is now shot, I'd say 3/4 of the power lost. On full blast, barely anything come out and noise of the A/C blowing is very noticeable outside of the car, not sure if that was the way it was before, but im guessing a leak but no clue where to start. Thank you all for the help!
Reread #9. Mileage on car? Pump?
Your fuel pressure should be 50 psi. From the info that you have provided, looks like you have a failing fuel pump.

As to the white smoke and AC blower, did you have these problems before you ripped apart the intake manifold? Are you losing coolant? Where are you located that it's warm enough for you to run the AC at full blast?
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Your fuel pressure should be 50 psi. From the info that you have provided, looks like you have a failing fuel pump.

As to the white smoke and AC blower, did you have these problems before you ripped apart the intake manifold? Are you losing coolant? Where are you located that it's warm enough for you to run the AC at full blast?
I did not have those problem prior to taking apart the IM. I think I’ve developed a leak but it seems very very small at the connection of a hose from the lower radiator, however, it felt like oil when I touched it. I worked on it in dark conditions so I’ll try to look more later today. I don’t need full blast however when I put it to 50% it’s nonexistent. Why would the AC lose power due to a coolant leak anyway?
 

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I did not have those problem prior to taking apart the IM. I think I’ve developed a leak but it seems very very small at the connection of a hose from the lower radiator, however, it felt like oil when I touched it. I worked on it in dark conditions so I’ll try to look more later today. I don’t need full blast however when I put it to 50% it’s nonexistent. Why would the AC lose power due to a coolant leak anyway?
When you say "nonexistent" are you talking about the fan blower or the AC compressor? Two different things.
 

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2001 325ci MT 250k
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Your fuel pressure should be 50 psi. From the info that you have provided, looks like you have a failing fuel pump.

As to the white smoke and AC blower, did you have these problems before you ripped apart the intake manifold? Are you losing coolant? Where are you located that it's warm enough for you to run the AC at full blast?
When you say "nonexistent" are you talking about the fan blower or the AC compressor? Two different things.
The air blowing from the interior A/C is very very weak so I’m guessing the fan blower. I was referring to such when I said nonexistent, I’m not yet familiar with the A/C system, my apologies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
So fan at 50% or temp at 50%. Do you get cold air with AC? Warm air with heat? I would deal with leak and fuel pump first.
Sorry for the confusion, temps are fine, I’m only taking about the power of the air coming through. At 50% I have to hover right over the vent to feel air. Fuel pump and possible leaks are my priority I just want to get y’all’s input on this. Thanks!
 
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