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Discussion Starter #1
Hey fellas,

My car ('01 325ci) is sitting on an H&R cup kit. Recently I have been getting rubbing noises on the passenger side of the car (I'm in Ireland...so the left side) especially noticeable when there is a passenger in the car. However I have no such issues on the drivers side. This is leading me to believe something suspension related is causing some issue here. The car still feels fine, handling feels tight and no complaints when I'm tearing around!

As I said, the car sits on a H&R cup kit at present, and has done for ~50k miles without issue. I'm wondering if this could be a symptom of a failing shock?

The car sits fine when stationary, it is level and no issues that I can see there. After examining the spring/shock I can't notice anything obvious. The spring has a little corrosion on both sides, but nothing really to note. The shocks look fine, nothing obvious.

So my question, would I be right in assuming an issue with my shock? If this is a reasonable assumption, then what rear shocks should I replace with, and do I need to refresh the springs while I'm there?

I know this is one of those; very hard to answer with such vague descriptions...but even if you could give me a better idea on how to diagnose my problem it would be great!
 

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First things first; find out where exactly the rubbing is coming from. You should be able to spot a clean spot or a spot with transfer from the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First things first; find out where exactly the rubbing is coming from. You should be able to spot a clean spot or a spot with transfer from the tire.
Most of the rubbing can be seen up in the wheel well, on the wheel well liner. There is some, (very slight) rubbing on the arch too, but the wheels/tires are right on the limit in terms of width without rolling the arches.
 

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Measure from the wheel arch to the top lip of the wheel on both sides and see if there's a difference. Do this with somebody sitting in the car on the side you're measuring and without somebody in there also to see if how far the car goes down when loaded is different between sides as well. If there's no noticeable difference there, drive over a speed bump completely straight and see if you can tell a difference in how far each side goes down before rebounding. One of the company cars I drive had the right side shock blown out and you could definitely tell that side went down further and then rebounded further before settling down again. I suspect that'll be much harder to notice on a BMW with a Cup Kit vs the Chevy I noticed it on, but still...

If it still seems all even, check the fitment of the fender liner itself to make sure it hasn't come loose and is sagging closer to the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Measure from the wheel arch to the top lip of the wheel on both sides and see if there's a difference. Do this with somebody sitting in the car on the side you're measuring and without somebody in there also to see if how far the car goes down when loaded is different between sides as well. If there's no noticeable difference there, drive over a speed bump completely straight and see if you can tell a difference in how far each side goes down before rebounding. One of the company cars I drive had the right side shock blown out and you could definitely tell that side went down further and then rebounded further before settling down again. I suspect that'll be much harder to notice on a BMW with a Cup Kit vs the Chevy I noticed it on, but still...

If it still seems all even, check the fitment of the fender liner itself to make sure it hasn't come loose and is sagging closer to the wheel.
Cheers for the help man. I will take a look this evening and see if I can get more info! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys, so I at least have some more info for you. I took the right hand side wheel off to take a look again, and took some pictures while I was there. I forgot to take pictures of the top mounts, but they appear fine on both sides when I looked from the boot after removing the trim.

The gallery shows you the car with and without a relatively heavy person sitting in either side of the car to give you an idea of how it sits while stationary.

If you wouldn't mind taking a look at the pictures to see if you can think of anything else, I'd really appreciate it!

https://imgur.com/a/yihqH
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Well gents, I have a pair of Koni Sport (yellow) shocks now on the rear of the car and it seems to have fixed the problem. Once I had the old troublesome H&R shock out, I could hear a squelching noise when compressing it by hand, which points to a failed seal. I finished installing the koni's yesterday and only went for a short test drive, but thus far I have none of the symptoms I had before.

Cheers everyone! I'm chuffed! The DIY was easy enough too :thumbsup:
 

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Well gents, I have a pair of Koni Sport (yellow) shocks now on the rear of the car and it seems to have fixed the problem. Once I had the old troublesome H&R shock out, I could hear a squelching noise when compressing it by hand, which points to a failed seal. I finished installing the koni's yesterday and only went for a short test drive, but thus far I have none of the symptoms I had before.

Cheers everyone! I'm chuffed! The DIY was easy enough too :thumbsup:
I am having a similar issue and came across your thread. Did you replace the front and rear or just rear? I have been considering swapping just the shocks/ struts to koni yellow's as well. I would love some more input/ feedback.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am having a similar issue and came across your thread. Did you replace the front and rear or just rear? I have been considering swapping just the shocks/ struts to koni yellow's as well. I would love some more input/ feedback.

Thanks
Just replaced the rears, but I know the fronts will need replacing soon. Or at least I would assume that they can't be far behind the rears!

If you think one shock has failed, then it would be worthwhile taking out the shock an inspecting it yourself. Mine was very obviously bad on one side.

I presume you haven't made any changes to wheels/tires/suspension before this issue started, as although the shocks fixed my issue, it may not be your problem!
 

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Just replaced the rears, but I know the fronts will need replacing soon. Or at least I would assume that they can't be far behind the rears!

If you think one shock has failed, then it would be worthwhile taking out the shock an inspecting it yourself. Mine was very obviously bad on one side.

I presume you haven't made any changes to wheels/tires/suspension before this issue started, as although the shocks fixed my issue, it may not be your problem!
I have only 40k 4 years or so on my cup kit, though it has been very soft in the rear for maybe a year. I do have a clunking over hard bumps/dips. I have inspected it with just taking the tire off. I dont see any leaks or anything that suggests its bad except for the very soft rear end and clunking that i can not pin-point. It is a vert so there is additional weight over a coupe.

What are proper measures for inspecting other than the obvious leaks?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There were no leaks visible on my bad shock either. Even with it in my hand there were no visible signs that it was bad. However when I had it off and compressed by hand, I could very clearly hear it squelching which led me to believe it had failed. This was on the passenger side, but the drivers side, although not near as bad, was showing similar wear.

I inspected a lot before going ahead and removing the shock. And there really was little I could do with the shock still attached. It is not difficult to remove (I've read that people remove shocks without removing the wheel...I wouldn't recommend this!)

My cup kit was probably at 50k miles when it was replaced. Don't know for certain as I did not fit it!
 

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There were no leaks visible on my bad shock either. Even with it in my hand there were no visible signs that it was bad. However when I had it off and compressed by hand, I could very clearly hear it squelching which led me to believe it had failed. This was on the passenger side, but the drivers side, although not near as bad, was showing similar wear.

I inspected a lot before going ahead and removing the shock. And there really was little I could do with the shock still attached. It is not difficult to remove (I've read that people remove shocks without removing the wheel...I wouldn't recommend this!)

My cup kit was probably at 50k miles when it was replaced. Don't know for certain as I did not fit it!
Thanks for the response and feedback, I've been going back and forth for awhile waiting to pull the trigger. I think hearing your story was enough to convince me further they are bad and to just buy a new set..
 

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Me and you are very much alike, I waited until I had the parts before removing the old shock and inspecting. Which was fine, but had I discovered the shocks were good I would.have had a bit of a headache trying to return the new konis!

But either way I'm delighted. Car is a lot better since the upgrade. It has been soft in the rear, but now it is very sharp and stiff. :thumbup:
 
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