Is that the Morimoto Mini?The D2S 4.0 is the go-to projector now verses the fxr
Correct. It is the Mini d2s 4.0Is that the Morimoto Mini?
Looks to be about 1cm shorter in length compared to the FX-R so maybe it could fit in the housing with no cutting. Still doubt it though. Regardless, it's bound to have insane light output
Yes.This thing still running?![]()
No.This thing got some projectors installed?![]()
I'm guessing you have bad rear shocks, that's why your tire is so worn. I would replace the shocks, new shock mounts, and install reinforcement plates before buying new tires. If your bump stop is toast it could be from the blown shock.Gave the E46 a little love this past weekend:
- My driver's rear tire is nearly bald on the inside shoulder. Passenger side wear is even. Somewhat odd, but I swapped them side-to-side and will be ordering new rears in the near future.
- I think I need new rear shocks. I suspect they're original---there's rust around the top of the shaft and the bumpstops are falling apart. Additionally, the trunk liner that cover the shock towers is completely intact; no sign of removal to replace. And I'm getting a faint rattling noise from the right rear corner. RTABs seem OK; no movement or clunking from either.
- This nut worked its way just a bit loose again:
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I had to disconnect the swaybar mounts to be able to get a wrench on the nut to torque it. Awful location. Tightened it as much as I possibly could. There's still a very minor amount of play, but complete tightness will have to wait for a full control arm replacement, most likely.
How would a bad shock cause the tire wear? The shocks don't control wheel position; they just dampen its up-and-down movement.I'm guessing you have bad rear shocks, that's why your tire is so worn. I would replace the shocks, new shock mounts, and install reinforcement plates before buying new tires. If your bump stop is toast it could be from the blown shock.
How do you figure? No play back there; no clunking.If you haven't replaced the rear trailing arm bushings, they are bad.
10-4.Replace those with RTAB limiters if you decide to install original bushings.
Doubt it. The balljoint boots look too good to have traveled 165K. One of the first things I did after I bought the car was to replace the FCABs (but not the arms).Are your control arms original?
A worn shock would not provide dampening to keep the wheel on the ground. Ever notice cars sometimes driving down the freeway with a wheel bouncing like crazy? Yours could be in this realm... or you did a crazy one wheel burnout. lol.Spannerhead said:How would a bad shock cause the tire wear? The shocks don't control wheel position; they just dampen its up-and-down movement.
Okay, that's good. I'd also consider replacing these parts when you install new shocks.Spannerhead said:The bump stop just looks old and crumbly from time; doesn't look like it's been impacted by the top of the shock.
You won't get play per say, but the metal inner part of the bushing separates from the rubber bushing. The real wheel will wander when bumps are hit or when you make turns. The limiters in this case keep the wheel from having unexpected changes in toe. As that bushing wears that toe tolerance becomes greater. I know in my experience you may not notice any issues in the rear end, but I guarantee if you replace the bushings you'll feel the difference.Spannerhead said:How do you figure? No play back there; no clunking.
One way you can check the ball joints is to turn the wheel slightly out on each side. Put your foot on the wheel and push to move the wheel, it shouldn't move. If it does, that's a good indication you have bad ball joints.Spannerhead said:Doubt it. The balljoint boots look too good to have traveled 165K. One of the first things I did after I bought the car was to replace the FCABs (but not the arms).
No burnouts, haha. And the car drives perfectly smoothly---EXCEPT for a very minor rear end vibration that crops up from 50-60 mph (smooth above and below). That's what prompted me to check everything in the first place.A worn shock would not provide dampening to keep the wheel on the ground. Ever notice cars sometimes driving down the freeway with a wheel bouncing like crazy? Yours could be in this realm... or you did a crazy one wheel burnout. lol.
That's the plan. Reinforcement plates front and back also.Okay, that's good. I'd also consider replacing these parts when you install new shocks.
You won't get play per say, but the metal inner part of the bushing separates from the rubber bushing. The real wheel will wander when bumps are hit or when you make turns. The limiters in this case keep the wheel from having unexpected changes in toe. As that bushing wears that toe tolerance becomes greater. I know in my experience you may not notice any issues in the rear end, but I guarantee if you replace the bushings you'll feel the difference.
In my photo you can see that while the rubber looks good on my old bushings, it is clearly separating.
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Good info. I'd like to replace those also, and from what I hear, with the proper tool it's a pretty painless job.
[QUOTE]One way you can check the ball joints is to turn the wheel slightly out on each side. Put your foot on the wheel and push to move the wheel, it shouldn't move. If it does, that's a good indication you have bad ball joints.[/QUOTE]
Which direction am I trying to move the wheel with my foot? About the turning axis?
Totally get it. When you're ready, PM me. I won't sell you my kit but I'll show you some sub $200 kits like the one I put in my moms car :thumbup: keep up with the good workUnderstood. I think I'll pass---I really need something that's plug-and-play---but thanks though!