[Spannerhead]

Thanks guys. All good info. Will bear all of it in mind when the time comes to take the next step. :thumbup:

 

[lllRazorlll]

The D2S 4.0 is the go-to projector now verses the fxr

Is that the Morimoto Mini?

Looks to be about 1cm shorter in length compared to the FX-R so maybe it could fit in the housing with no cutting. Still doubt it though. Regardless, it's bound to have insane light output

 

[Vas]

Is that the Morimoto Mini?

Looks to be about 1cm shorter in length compared to the FX-R so maybe it could fit in the housing with no cutting. Still doubt it though. Regardless, it's bound to have insane light output

Correct. It is the Mini d2s 4.0

 

[YoitsTmac]

This thing still running?

 

[Solidjake]

This thing got some projectors installed?

 

[Spannerhead]

This thing still running?

Yes.

This thing got some projectors installed?

No.

We have a rental property on the market; once that sells there will hopefully some more interesting updates.

 

[Spannerhead]

Gave the E46 a little love this past weekend:

- My driver's rear tire is nearly bald on the inside shoulder. Passenger side wear is even. Somewhat odd, but I swapped them side-to-side and will be ordering new rears in the near future.
- I think I need new rear shocks. I suspect they're original---there's rust around the top of the shaft and the bumpstops are falling apart. Additionally, the trunk liner that cover the shock towers is completely intact; no sign of removal to replace. And I'm getting a faint rattling noise from the right rear corner. RTABs seem OK; no movement or clunking from either.
- This nut worked its way just a bit loose again:

I had to disconnect the swaybar mounts to be able to get a wrench on the nut to torque it. Awful location. Tightened it as much as I possibly could. There's still a very minor amount of play, but complete tightness will have to wait for a full control arm replacement, most likely.

 

[shoman24v]

Gave the E46 a little love this past weekend:

- My driver's rear tire is nearly bald on the inside shoulder. Passenger side wear is even. Somewhat odd, but I swapped them side-to-side and will be ordering new rears in the near future.
- I think I need new rear shocks. I suspect they're original---there's rust around the top of the shaft and the bumpstops are falling apart. Additionally, the trunk liner that cover the shock towers is completely intact; no sign of removal to replace. And I'm getting a faint rattling noise from the right rear corner. RTABs seem OK; no movement or clunking from either.
- This nut worked its way just a bit loose again:

I had to disconnect the swaybar mounts to be able to get a wrench on the nut to torque it. Awful location. Tightened it as much as I possibly could. There's still a very minor amount of play, but complete tightness will have to wait for a full control arm replacement, most likely.

I'm guessing you have bad rear shocks, that's why your tire is so worn. I would replace the shocks, new shock mounts, and install reinforcement plates before buying new tires. If your bump stop is toast it could be from the blown shock.

If you haven't replaced the rear trailing arm bushings, they are bad. Replace those with RTAB limiters if you decide to install original bushings.

Are your control arms original?

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[Spannerhead]

I'm guessing you have bad rear shocks, that's why your tire is so worn. I would replace the shocks, new shock mounts, and install reinforcement plates before buying new tires. If your bump stop is toast it could be from the blown shock.

How would a bad shock cause the tire wear? The shocks don't control wheel position; they just dampen its up-and-down movement.

The bump stop just looks old and crumbly from time; doesn't look like it's been impacted by the top of the shock.

I'd like to replace all 4 shocks at the same time. Looks like Sachs is OEM...

If you haven't replaced the rear trailing arm bushings, they are bad.

How do you figure? No play back there; no clunking.

Replace those with RTAB limiters if you decide to install original bushings.

10-4.

Are your control arms original?

Doubt it. The balljoint boots look too good to have traveled 165K. One of the first things I did after I bought the car was to replace the FCABs (but not the arms).

 

[shoman24v]

How would a bad shock cause the tire wear? The shocks don't control wheel position; they just dampen its up-and-down movement.

A worn shock would not provide dampening to keep the wheel on the ground. Ever notice cars sometimes driving down the freeway with a wheel bouncing like crazy? Yours could be in this realm... or you did a crazy one wheel burnout. lol.

The bump stop just looks old and crumbly from time; doesn't look like it's been impacted by the top of the shock.

Okay, that's good. I'd also consider replacing these parts when you install new shocks.

How do you figure? No play back there; no clunking.

You won't get play per say, but the metal inner part of the bushing separates from the rubber bushing. The real wheel will wander when bumps are hit or when you make turns. The limiters in this case keep the wheel from having unexpected changes in toe. As that bushing wears that toe tolerance becomes greater. I know in my experience you may not notice any issues in the rear end, but I guarantee if you replace the bushings you'll feel the difference.

In my photo you can see that while the rubber looks good on my old bushings, it is clearly separating.

Doubt it. The balljoint boots look too good to have traveled 165K. One of the first things I did after I bought the car was to replace the FCABs (but not the arms).

One way you can check the ball joints is to turn the wheel slightly out on each side. Put your foot on the wheel and push to move the wheel, it shouldn't move. If it does, that's a good indication you have bad ball joints.

 

[Spannerhead]

A worn shock would not provide dampening to keep the wheel on the ground. Ever notice cars sometimes driving down the freeway with a wheel bouncing like crazy? Yours could be in this realm... or you did a crazy one wheel burnout. lol.

No burnouts, haha. And the car drives perfectly smoothly---EXCEPT for a very minor rear end vibration that crops up from 50-60 mph (smooth above and below). That's what prompted me to check everything in the first place.

Okay, that's good. I'd also consider replacing these parts when you install new shocks.

That's the plan. Reinforcement plates front and back also.

You won't get play per say, but the metal inner part of the bushing separates from the rubber bushing. The real wheel will wander when bumps are hit or when you make turns. The limiters in this case keep the wheel from having unexpected changes in toe. As that bushing wears that toe tolerance becomes greater. I know in my experience you may not notice any issues in the rear end, but I guarantee if you replace the bushings you'll feel the difference.

In my photo you can see that while the rubber looks good on my old bushings, it is clearly separating.

[/QUOTE]

Good info. I'd like to replace those also, and from what I hear, with the proper tool it's a pretty painless job.

[QUOTE]One way you can check the ball joints is to turn the wheel slightly out on each side. Put your foot on the wheel and push to move the wheel, it shouldn't move. If it does, that's a good indication you have bad ball joints.[/QUOTE]

Which direction am I trying to move the wheel with my foot? About the turning axis?

 

[shoman24v]

Just kinda push it forward and backwards with your foot, like if you were going to move it left and right, I guess horizontal.

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[Spannerhead]

Some updates:

- Had a misfiring issue (P1343) a couple of months ago that was traced to a bad coil. Swapped in replacement and it runs like a champ. Good power everywhere and perfectly smooth at speed; no vibrations at all from the engine, drivetrain or suspension.
- Replaced the rear tires about a month ago. The fronts are about a year old but still fresh. Thick rubber on all 4 corners is very nice.
- Tinted the windows last week. 40% all around:

I really like it. It helps with the heat, protects the interior and gives the car a hint of a more aggressive look.

Also, just installed this yesterday:

Love it, although it makes my scratched-up ashtray and storage cubby lids look pretty janky... Need to replace those, or at least scrub off the rubber coating. Ugh.

I really want to upgrade the lighting now. Xenons, clear corners and side repeaters and LED tails would perfectly complete the "look" I'm going for.

 

[zander271]

I always think amber lights look better on blue and dark green cars. If it was me I would keep the amber


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[YoitsTmac]

can't believe you don't have xenons. I have some Mishimoto Mini's if you want them and if you can fab a bit. Otherwise I'll use them. Happy to pass them to someone who would love xenons. Enjoying the build, my favorite sedan on the forums.

 

[Spannerhead]

Yeah the original owner ticked (and left un-ticked) every option box I would have when he/she ordered the car in 2002---except Xenons. Thanks for the offer! How much fabbing is involved? My electronics-fu is not strong. And thanks for the compliment!

 

[YoitsTmac]

The wiring is easy, but I stupidly realized that although I have the projector (what I offered), you'd be missing the bulb, ballast, and all that jazz ($$). The kits aren't hard to put in, I did it in my moms car. If I were to do it again I'd make sure get get D2S bulbs in. I have spare bulbs I could let go for really cheap for you

 

[Spannerhead]

Understood. I think I'll pass---I really need something that's plug-and-play---but thanks though!

 

[shoman24v]

Car is looking great Spannerhead. ZHP nob give it a nice touch!

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[YoitsTmac]

Understood. I think I'll pass---I really need something that's plug-and-play---but thanks though!

Totally get it. When you're ready, PM me. I won't sell you my kit but I'll show you some sub $200 kits like the one I put in my moms car :thumbup: keep up with the good work