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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I just bought a used 2000 323Ci with 165kmiles a few month ago, and since I like the car I plan to do quite a bit of maintenance on it.
Basically I want to replace every gasket, hose, rubber or common failing part that I can, and that does not cost too much.

So here is the big question: While I have the car on stands and everything apart, what other part would you guys recommend me to replace and/or loot at?

What I plan to replace + part number:
DISA O-ring 11617504543
fuel filter 13321740985
fuel pump 16146766942
front wheel cover (near belly pan) broken 51718224986
intake manifold profile gasket 11611436631
Valve cover gasket 11129070990
VANOS seal and orings 11361433817
VANOS line +copper gaskets 11361705532
fan switch oring 13621743299
ICV Rubber grommet 11611437453
clean the ICV
voltage regulator 12311713491 (edit: Bosh, $400)
final stage resistor 64116923204
drive belt 11287636379
serpentine belt 11287636379
differential fluid
transmission fluid
coolant fluid
brake fluid

Eventually:
coolant system hoses? (not cheap for just tubes)
water pump? The one on the car is aftermarket, so it has been changed at some point, I just don't know when.
fuel injector cleaning (witch hunter)

Also, here is what I already replaced :
CCV and its 5 hoses (Frozen)
oil dipstick O-ring
filter housing gasket
battery
spark plugs + boots
camshaft sensor (triggered CEL)
MAF sensor (trigger CEL)
oil level sensor
throttle body gasket

Keep in mind that I am not that rich ATM, so anything not really worth it should not be included. Depending on the price, I might not even replace some of the above parts too.
Though, I would hate to take everything apart, put it back and realize I forgot to change that $3 O-ring/hose that can fail and is a PITA to change on its own.
Thank you for your input.

EDIT: Added cooling system overhaul (thanks markusmarkus)
 

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2018 M240i
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The first thing to change is the cooling system in toto! Unless you have maintenance records that show that this system has been refreshed in the last ~75000 miles you are running on borrowed time. Several sponsors sell kits that include the major components. Yes, you need to replace the coolant hoses, also.

There are numerous websites that sell BMW OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts for a lot less than the dealer. DO NOT BUY cooling system parts from eBay or your local parts store. You will regret it. Stick with OEM.

Also, find a reliable local independent ("indy") repair shop. Check the local chapter if the BMWCCA for recommendations. All chapters have a website.

Welcome!


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!

Well, about the indy, I am gonna do the work myself. It is a good learning experience, and I like to know what happens under the hood. But mostly, it is way cheaper!

Alright for the complete cooling system overhaul. It is still $300 though :/

Question: There is a thermostat in the cooling system. Is that the same thermostat that causes the engine to run cold and rich, as described by jfoj here http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491?
Because I might have a soft failure on that:
  • engine is running cold (coolant is 180F even after 40min highway)
  • engine running rich (-6 to -8% LTFT)
more information on the matter there http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15992444#post15992444
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)

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Should I replace all the hoses for the cooling system? The kit is $240 on ecs tuning http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-323Ci-M52_2.5L/Maintenance/Engine/ES2597228/
The rest of the cooling system is also $330 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-323Ci-M52_2.5L/Maintenance/Engine/ES2063862/

Edit: Do the valve cover seal washers ( http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-323Ci-M52_2.5L/Engine/Gaskets_-and-_Seals/ES2581843/ ) typically need to be replaced when changing VCG?
Yes, change the VGC grommets as well.

You want the 2nd link on the coolant system overhaul. The one with the ET, T-Stat, water pump, upper/lower hoses, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
agreed if you're down there you might as well do all of the cooling system. FCABs perhaps? and it sounds weird but you might as well replace your gas cap, thats just as important as everything else fuel related
FCABs seems like a real PITA ( http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=140066). I am still quite new to working on the car, and never dealt with the suspension/control arm/axles parts so far. Is it a good idea for me to get into it?
Good tip on the gas gap.

Yes, change the VGC grommets as well.
You want the 2nd link on the coolant system overhaul. The one with the ET, T-Stat, water pump, upper/lower hoses, etc.
Yep, I'' buy the 2nd link pack for sure. I was wondering if I needed to change all those extra hoses (not just the upper&lower radiator hoses) that are in the first link? I can't really visually inspect them, since they go everywhere around the engine.

EDIT: seems like the kit in link1 contains the 2 radiator hoses, and 6 extra hoses, but the cooling system only has 3 of those extra hoses : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BM33&mospid=47709&btnr=11_2200&hg=11&fg=35 . What are all those hoses for?

Yes the thermostat will do that. Mine just went and is throwing the same codes. Already ordered the part, hoses, and expansion tank to replace next weekend.
Great to hear. Did you have some power loss too? I am having some loss of power, but I don't know if it is caused by the thermostat or something else (fuel pump never changed in 14 years, fuel filter probably very old).

EDIT2: Just checked my Voltage regulator, and it's a Bosh, costs around $400 on ecs tuning. I guess I won't change that part :/

Also, while having my air box out, I saw that my left front fender liner was broken, and the ambiant temperature sensor was hanging on the ground. Anybody know where the temperature sensor usually attach?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Is it usefull to replace the Fuel pressure regulator (item 3 in link)?

PS: I intend to replace VANOS seals, but I only found the vanos seal 11361703713 on ecs tuning
This guy proposes a kit to also replace vanos piston oring and teflon ring. Do you know if it is possible to order those two seals on ecs tuning, or is that the only way to get those seals?
 

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Im currently on the FCA and FCABs--Easy to do. If your doing the other stuff, you will have no problem with the FCABs (provided that none of the bolts break!!)
I got mine as a kit from Bavauto for $380.00, includes everything you need. Part Number 31 12 1KIT

http://bavauto.com/shop.asp
 

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Another thing to consider is replacing all the belt components. Bav Auto also has a kit for this for 145.00 Contains: 1- Alternator/Power steering belt, 1 - A/C Belt, 1 - Alternator belt tensioner with pulley, 1 - A/C belt tensioner with pulley, 1 - Drive Belt Deflection Pulley. P/N is ADK0046p
 

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The first thing to change is the cooling system in toto! Unless you have maintenance records that show that this system has been refreshed in the last ~75000 miles you are running on borrowed time.
+1 on this. This should be your first Maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks for tip. If its not that complicated, I think I'll do FCA and FCABs when I am done with all this, they're not as critical as the rest.

As for the belts components, I am already replacing the belts themselves (they come with the cooling system pack). Do I need to change the pulleys ?

EDIT: There seems to be two different accessory belts depending if you have (or not?) a hydraulic belt tensioner. Do I have to worry about having the wrong belt in my kit?
 

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if the pullies spin easily with belts off then yes. they should not spin at all after your hand leaves them if they are good. The afore mentioned kit replaces the hydraluic belt tensioner which is sometimes recommended. Have you been using Realoem.com for your part numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I used realoem.com to find all the gaskets/washers/screws and whatnot tiny rubber parts. I browsed ecstuning.com with 323ci filter on, and each individual part number matched correctly with the realoem.com one. Couldn't check some parts number in the cooling system kit (which includes both belts), that's why I am wondering if its the good one, since the realoem diagram lists two.
Is there a way to know if the pullies are bad before taking the belt apart? I do not have a garage myself, I have to drive to my father in laws, and it would really be a hassle to have to wait for the delivery to keep working on the car.
 

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Is your car an AT or MT? If AT you would have to remove the fan to get to the Idler Pulley Tensioner. You can get to the A/C Tensioner Pulley from the bottom. You can release the tension on both with a breaker bar and check them that way. If you have a MT, the fan wont be an issue and you should be able to check from above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My car is MT. Will try with a breaker bar.
There is two diagram on realoem.com
1 - hydraulic- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BM33&mospid=47709&btnr=11_2190&hg=11&fg=18
2 - mechanical - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BM33&mospid=47709&btnr=11_2205&hg=11&fg=18

I have the 1st setup, so hydraulic. I know I found a random ball from an unknown ball bearing when changing my oil filter housing gasket. So for $20 I'll go ahead and change the both idle pulley and tensioner pulley.
For the A/C, is there a way to change the pulley without changing the whole tensioner?
 

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For the A/C, is there a way to change the pulley without changing the whole tensioner?
Yes, as long as the belt is off. The pulley is just held on with a single bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
With the proper tools anything is easy, especially FCABs. The arms don't even need to come off the car.
Seems easy indeed. Scheduled for when I have the money to spend it on. Thanks for the video link.

Yes, as long as the belt is off. The pulley is just held on with a single bolt.
Do you have the part number for the A/C pulley alone? Realoem diagram does not show it, and I could not find it on ecs tuning. Would it be the same as the accessory tensioner pulley?
 
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