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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
My buddy asked me to go, but I'm actually in Southern VT currently. Next year it is something I definitely want to try to do. Maybe we can get @RobE30 to go, too, and have a little touring cruise.

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For sure! I was talking to him on Instagram and we were talking about setting something up in the future and get all the wagon owners together.
 

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2001 325i Touring. 5-speed manual. Formerly automatic.
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My SAP readiness issues traced back to the pre-cat O2 sensors as well as the SAP tube going to the kombi valve.

No codes at the time. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #283 ·
My SAP readiness issues traced back to the pre-cat O2 sensors as well as the SAP tube going to the kombi valve.

No codes at the time. Good luck.
Thank you, I did use ISTA to test the O2's and they were fine? But it wouldn't be a bad idea changing the O2's they are most likely original from 2001! I will definetly look at the SAP tube going to the kombi valve! much appreciated!
 

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Thank you, I did use ISTA to test the O2's and they were fine? But it wouldn't be a bad idea changing the O2's they are most likely original from 2001! I will definetly look at the SAP tube going to the kombi valve! much appreciated!
I’m my case it seems that I had a pair of lazy upstream sensors. I would have changed tthe SAP hose first if I were to do it again as the first in my plan of attack. I had no records from previous owner so i did both.
 

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For sure! I was talking to him on Instagram and we were talking about setting something up in the future and get all the wagon owners together.
I tried a few years ago for the Carlisle Import show and it fell short. But I'm still game to try and put something together for that or MPact. Or for Cult Classic in Coopersburg. Met up with Rob there and swapped some parts earlier this year. Invade the "VW/Audi" show with some volume!

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Discussion Starter · #286 ·
I’m my case it seems that I had a pair of lazy upstream sensors. I would have changed tthe SAP hose first if I were to do it again as the first in my plan of attack. I had no records from previous owner so i did both.
I did confirm the SAP functions though with ISTA, ran for 15 seconds with the test. At-least I was able to confirm the secondary air pump isn't dead. Just digging into it, and seeing why the readiness isn't setting. But the O2's are probably original as the hoses lol!
 

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@CornerGorillaPit is spot on with the O2 sensor issue causing SAP issues. The O2 sensors monitor the function of the SAP system and report seeing change in the mixture to the DME. If the O2 sensors aren't reporting to the DME that they are seeing that change, then the readiness won't set. If you are using ISTA you should be able to find a test plan (ABL) for the SAP that will monitor the O2s. Lazy O2s won't react properly in the short time the SAP runs.

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2001 325i Touring. 5-speed manual. Formerly automatic.
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@CornerGorillaPit is spot on with the O2 sensor issue causing SAP issues. The O2 sensors monitor the function of the SAP system and report seeing change in the mixture to the DME. If the O2 sensors aren't reporting to the DME that they are seeing that change, then the readiness won't set. If you are using ISTA you should be able to find a test plan (ABL) for the SAP that will monitor the O2s. Lazy O2s won't react properly in the short time the SAP runs.

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It drove me crazy for a couple weeks until I caved and got the upstream O2 sensors. First drive and boom SAP monitor completed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
@CornerGorillaPit is spot on with the O2 sensor issue causing SAP issues. The O2 sensors monitor the function of the SAP system and report seeing change in the mixture to the DME. If the O2 sensors aren't reporting to the DME that they are seeing that change, then the readiness won't set. If you are using ISTA you should be able to find a test plan (ABL) for the SAP that will monitor the O2s. Lazy O2s won't react properly in the short time the SAP runs.

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It drove me crazy for a couple weeks until I caved and got the upstream O2 sensors. First drive and boom SAP monitor completed.

Much appreciated! Thank you.
 

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Looks good, but a couple of quick notes off the top of my head:
25111434194 comes with 25117580281

61318363710 - You should be able to reuse your original

21521163910 - CDV - most people are deleting these

34111153198 - Should come with your slave cylinder

25111220439 - You may only need (2) of these or possibly none.

I'd add in 21521165819 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
Looks good, but a couple of quick notes off the top of my head:
25111434194 comes with 25117580281

61318363710 - You should be able to reuse your original


21521163910 - CDV - most people are deleting these

34111153198 - Should come with your slave cylinder

25111220439 - You may only need (2) of these or possibly none.

I'd add in 21521165819 as well.
Thank you, much appreciated! On the note of clutch pedal switch, my wagon is currently auto and the pedal assembly my friend found at a Pick n Pull didn't have the switch. So I'll have to get a new one.


Good luck with the swap. I’m still looking for a ZF transmission and matching driveshaft to complete my parts lists. Looking forward to your update on the process.
Thank you! Pretty fortunate my close friend had a spare ZF laying around, Haha.
 

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Thank you, much appreciated! On the note of clutch pedal switch, my wagon is currently auto and the pedal assembly my friend found at a Pick n Pull didn't have the switch. So I'll have to get a new one.
The early cars used a plunger style switch, one for when the pedal was at rest and a second for when it was pressed. That was changed around mid 2000 production IIRC and the new system uses the single clutch switch mounted on the clutch master cylinder (the 9231129 part you have listed) so the 8363710 is likely redundant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #295 ·
The early cars used a plunger style switch, one for when the pedal was at rest and a second for when it was pressed. That was changed around mid 2000 production IIRC and the new system uses the single clutch switch mounted on the clutch master cylinder (the 9231129 part you have listed) so the 8363710 is likely redundant.
Interesting, I was not aware. Thank you George, I'll remove that off the list.

Here is the excel sheet if anyone is interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #296 · (Edited)
Can't catch a break, ha! Voltage seems perfectly fine after drive home, and even before start up. Checked all grounds, and seemed fine.

Did some digging on the forums and stumbled upon this;

My car was doing this, but my voltage was fine. I got the alternator tested, and apparently it was rippling too much (not sure if the E46 charging system could detect this, but I couldn't think of anything else). I swapped in a refurbished alternator, and so far everything seems to be okay. I know autozone alternators have a reputation for being crappy... but I figure they can't all be terrible if they offer a lifetime warranty. I can't see how they'd make money on that.
Thankfully, my girlfriend has a spare alternator from her other E46 so ill throw that on and see if that fixes it. Might as-well try it. My alternator is 21 years old as-well, so it definitely had a good life.


933782


--

On other news:
Sound clip with my current setup Borla Catback + Racing Dynamic Headers. Quite a tasteful setup, and great to daily tbh.

 

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I had one at work recently that was charging fine, wiring was good, just had a bad circuit in the regulator for the warning light, or an uneven field, like TerraPhantm. Unplugged it and the light would go out, ended up replacing the alternator and all is well.

Sounds good, but we need a video under load!

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Ironman
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Must be something in the air. Perhaps in reality. Wonder if there was a small CME recently because suddenly a lot of alternators are going bad at the same time. I just had mine replaced this week.
 
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The one I did had a store brand reman in it and had been sitting for over a year.

I think I did both my battery and my alternator last year.

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