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Okay so for the past two months I've been struggling to find what is causing my secondary air pump codes. I have replaced the vacuum line that runs from the check valve to the plastic line. That did nothing. I have tried the sea foam trick where you pour sea foam into the hose off the secondary air pump. That seemed to help, but in the process sea foam somehow leaked onto the manifold. SO MUCH SMOKE. Anyone have any clue as to how sea foam got onto the manifold? Could it be another vacuum line? Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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There is another rubber vacuum line on the other end of the plastic line. It runs to a small control valve on the back side of the intake manifold. Have you replaced that rubber vacuum line? If not there is your next area of focus. There are other vacuum lines back there as well, so now is a good time to replace those as well.

There are plenty of threads here that deal with troubleshooting and replacing those vacuum lines so you are only a search away from your answer.
 

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Start over.

The secondary air pump ONLY runs on Cold Engine Start, if the engine is warm then the pump does not run. The pump has a connector near by with two wires. I forget the colors, but one of them is brown (BRN), this is ground. The other does not matter the color, it is 12v when the pump should be on, and 0 at all other times. You can use some test leads to connect the wire of the pump to ground -- look at the vehicle side of the connector and see which wire is BRN, use a jumper to connect the appropriate wire on the pump side of the connector to ground. With the connector disconnected, use a second jumper to the B Terminal (the terminal for jump starting the car from the engine bay). This should force the pump to turn on. If the pump fails to turn on, then it is bad.

While the engine is cold -- before engine start -- use the jumpers connected to your volt meter and start the car. The meter should read 12v when the engine is on and cold. If not, then you have to go behind the glove compartment (between the glove box and the firewall) to find the relay that turns the pump on. There is a fuse, F36 (50A) in the fuse box in the roof of the glove box, and the relay you are looking for is salmon colored in the relay panel behind the glove box.

If you do not have 12v at the connector of the SAP when the engine is cold, and running, then you have a blown fuse or a failed relay. The color of the relay is a clue to the load it can carry. There are other relays with same pin configuration, but the load they carry (the size of the contacts) is different -- lower -- and they can be used to test the circuit, but not to operate it.
 

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Start over.

The secondary air pump ONLY runs on Cold Engine Start, if the engine is warm then the pump does not run. The pump has a connector near by with two wires. I forget the colors, but one of them is brown (BRN), this is ground. The other does not matter the color, it is 12v when the pump should be on, and 0 at all other times. You can use some test leads to connect the wire of the pump to ground -- look at the vehicle side of the connector and see which wire is BRN, use a jumper to connect the appropriate wire on the pump side of the connector to ground. With the connector disconnected, use a second jumper to the B Terminal (the terminal for jump starting the car from the engine bay). This should force the pump to turn on. If the pump fails to turn on, then it is bad.

While the engine is cold -- before engine start -- use the jumpers connected to your volt meter and start the car. The meter should read 12v when the engine is on and cold. If not, then you have to go behind the glove compartment (between the glove box and the firewall) to find the relay that turns the pump on. There is a fuse, F36 (50A) in the fuse box in the roof of the glove box, and the relay you are looking for is salmon colored in the relay panel behind the glove box.

If you do not have 12v at the connector of the SAP when the engine is cold, and running, then you have a blown fuse or a failed relay. The color of the relay is a clue to the load it can carry. There are other relays with same pin configuration, but the load they carry (the size of the contacts) is different -- lower -- and they can be used to test the circuit, but not to operate it.
:thumbup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
if you don't hear the pump (its loud) its the relay, fuse or pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is another rubber vacuum line on the other end of the plastic line. It runs to a small control valve on the back side of the intake manifold. Have you replaced that rubber vacuum line? If not there is your next area of focus. There are other vacuum lines back there as well, so now is a good time to replace those as well.

There are plenty of threads here that deal with troubleshooting and replacing those vacuum lines so you are only a search away from your answer.
I think you might be right on that! I'm sure the other line is in worse shape than the one i already replaced. I'll look for that once the car cools down. Thank you very much.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Could i just replace the rubber part of the vacuum line on the back of the engine? or do i need to replace that whole line?
 

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Search my user name and SAP or look at the SAP section in my Cold Start Misfire thread. Assuming everything is working properly, original lazy O2 sensors are a big cause of SAP codes that cannot be sorted out. Every problem E46 I deal with has original O2 sensors at 150-200k miles still!!!

All vehicles need to be maintained, the E46 is no exception.
 

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Start over.

The secondary air pump ONLY runs on Cold Engine Start, if the engine is warm then the pump does not run. The pump has a connector near by with two wires. I forget the colors, but one of them is brown (BRN), this is ground. The other does not matter the color, it is 12v when the pump should be on, and 0 at all other times. You can use some test leads to connect the wire of the pump to ground -- look at the vehicle side of the connector and see which wire is BRN, use a jumper to connect the appropriate wire on the pump side of the connector to ground. With the connector disconnected, use a second jumper to the B Terminal (the terminal for jump starting the car from the engine bay). This should force the pump to turn on. If the pump fails to turn on, then it is bad.

While the engine is cold -- before engine start -- use the jumpers connected to your volt meter and start the car. The meter should read 12v when the engine is on and cold. If not, then you have to go behind the glove compartment (between the glove box and the firewall) to find the relay that turns the pump on. There is a fuse, F36 (50A) in the fuse box in the roof of the glove box, and the relay you are looking for is salmon colored in the relay panel behind the glove box.

If you do not have 12v at the connector of the SAP when the engine is cold, and running, then you have a blown fuse or a failed relay. The color of the relay is a clue to the load it can carry. There are other relays with same pin configuration, but the load they carry (the size of the contacts) is different -- lower -- and they can be used to test the circuit, but not to operate it.


Is t normal
To come on twice in one day ? I've read it should only happen on temperatures below 45.. I asked because on normal days it's start up and runs about 90-120 seconds then stops but let's say I drive to work and park about 5-6 hours it will
Come on again ..? I do have codes for vacuum I'm currently trying to check


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics mobile app
 

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The SAP will be commanded on only when the engine coolant temperature is below 104F/40C.

Then if the SAP does come on, it may or may not run for the full 90 seconds depending on the engine coolant temperature.

The pump may run multiple times a day depending on the engine coolant temperature. If you drive the car to work and it sits all day, the engine coolant temperature may still be above 104F/40C by the time you leave work so the pump may only run once as day.

A little light reading for everyone:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=17161645&postcount=154

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1041726

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1023149

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=965526

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1052605

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1074847

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1074573

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=106959

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1074847

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=106959

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1078986

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1096889

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1100895

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=17091432&postcount=28

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=17091517&postcount=29

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430048&highlight=secondary+air+system

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430048

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1125815
 
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