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***I know it is not an E46 M3, or even a S54, but I am just trying to get as much input/help as possible***

I put a S50B32 into my US spec 1995 M3 and as of Sunday I have been having a very bad misfire/timing issue with it. I began driving the car for the first time last Friday. I drove it perfectly fine all day Friday, Saturday, and Sunday with no issues. The car ran superb, it even was a 1/2 length in front of my friends 2011 G37S from a 2nd gear dig through 4th.

Sunday night I was driving and I redlined it through 2nd, and let off at maybe 6.5k in 3rd. After letting off, the car began to misfire horribly. I had what felt like maybe 30% power. It wouldn't sound very bad at idle at all, but once you gave it throttle it would sound like a Subaru.

It would be even worse under load while driving. Stutters, felt like it's running on 2 cylinders, wanted to stall (never has stalled to this day yet). I have NO CEL at all. I think my bulb may be burned out however, because I don't even see the CEL when the car first turns on and all the lights are displayed.

I put 6 brand new NGK PK7RA plugs in there hoping that would help. I switched around all the coil packs and unplugged them all while the car was running. Every time I unplugged a pack, the "misfire" would get way worse. I have deemed that the coil packs "should" be fine.

I smell a TON of gas everywhere I go. The car is running very rich. I took it to the dealership the next day and they scanned it. I had misfire codes on all the cylinders, as well as (162) A2 Camshaft synchronization. We deleted all the codes, and I took it back the next day after driving it for 24 hours. All the misfire codes were GONE (they were only there because I unplugged the packs while the car was running) but the (162) A2 Camshaft Synchronization was still there. We again deleted the codes, and later that night I stopped by Alex Lipowich's house to use his code reader. Again with the cam synchronization code and nothing else.

Today I changed the exhaust cam position sensor as well as the intake cam position sensor. Changing both of those did not help at all. Both the sensors I put on there were USED however. A brand new intake cam position sensor is coming tomorrow, and the exhaust one I have to wait 2 weeks to get from Germany.

Summary:
1995 US spec E36 M3 coupe with S50B32 Euro motor. 236k on the chassis, 100k on the S50B32. EWS re-aligned to my factory US key. Stock Euro DME and tune. Ran VERY strong for the first 3 days of driving it. Walbro 255 fuel pump. All I have replaced so far are the 6 spark plugs with brand new units, as well as the intake and exhaust cam position sensors (used). I am still only getting that one and only (162) A2 Camshaft Synchronization code with no CEL (bulb is likely burnt out). It wants to stall out (never stalls however), feels like it's running on 2 cylinders, way worse under load, seems decent at idle, running very rich.

Please feel free to ask about anything else on the car or my current setup. I greatly appreciate any help. I need to get this thing running ASAP as now I only have the bike to get to work every day.
 

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SES and Fault Codes - Diagnosed and Cured!
Hey all,

I was finally able to find a good BMW service shop and diagnose and repair my VANOS/CPS issues. In the end, VANOS wasn't faulty...at all. It was in fact the Bank 2 Exhaust CPS acting up, which on it's own was throwing multiple faults associated with itself.

I'll list them below in case anyone encounters a similar problem. All I did was replace the one sensor and vuala! FIXED. SES light is gone, and the beast runs like new.

Thank you to everyone who helped me with initial diagnosis and suggestions. Here are the details...


(011) 0B Camshaft position sensor, exhaust, bank 2, signal

(FAULT IS SPORADIC)

(162) A2 Camshaft sensor, bank 2: synchronization to crankshaft

(Currently not present. Fault is sporadic)

(196) C4 Misfire, cylinder 1, with cylinder cut-out

(197) C5 Misfire, cylinder 2, with cylinder cut-out

(198) C6 Misfire, cylinder 3, with cylinder cut-out

(199) C7 Misfire, cylinder 4, with cylinder cut-out

(200) C8 Misfire, cylinder 5, with cylinder cut-out


(ALL MISFIRES WERE ASSOCIATED WITH THE B2 EXHAUST SENSOR)


Hopefully this might help someone with similar problems. Symptoms were as follows:

-Intermittent SES light (pro-longed periods)
-Sporadic change in exhaust tone (very low, blatty rumble)
-Minor decrease of power (very infrequent)


Again, replacing the single B2 Exhaust CPS fixed all of these problems.


Cheers,

JC
Google Search, different engine, but same code. So in short, focus on the CPS
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Google Search, different engine, but same code. So in short, focus on the CPS
Good find, thank you. I guess the used sensors I received are probably faulty as well. I really hope this intake cam position sensor that comes tomorrow solves everything.
 

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How did you solve the problem and found out that it was the VANOS?
What do you mean by bad?
Was the problem not present when the engine was cold?
What is CPS?

I have issues with mine. But that runs like hell when cold. I have changed water temp sensor, TPS, air intake sensor, spark plugs, two new coils with hats that I switched around on the engine, have had diagnosis several times but there is nothing that is wrong on the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How did you solve the problem and found out that it was the VANOS?
What do you mean by bad?
Was the problem not present when the engine was cold?
What is CPS?

I have issues with mine. But that runs like hell when cold. I have changed water temp sensor, TPS, air intake sensor, spark plugs, two new coils with hats that I switched around on the engine, have had diagnosis several times but there is nothing that is wrong on the computer.
The problem was there at all times. I figured it out by pulling the valve cover and physically inspecting the cams only to find out that the exhaust cam was not in sync/time with the intake cam. CPS is cam position sensor or crank position sensor. It could mean either of those.

Try replacing the cam position sensors (intake and exhaust). Check your MAF as well.
 

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Ok! I think I have a powerloss of at least 30-40hp. When it is cold and I floor it the rear wheels spins, but when it is hot it is not even loose traction when it is wet in first gear....
 

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I have replaced a new overhauled VANOS from Dr.Vanos, three new knock sensors and crank sensor. Still misfiring.. I noticed when I opened the valve cover that the exhaust cam was not sync with the intake cam. But I figured out that it had been removed at some point and not put back together correctly. Because when I installed the overhauled VANOS the cams was sync.

It might be a idea to remove the valve cover now to check them again after the engine was started. I did turn the engine two times before start, but no change in cam timing from that.
 

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Ok! I think I have a powerloss of at least 30-40hp. When it is cold and I floor it the rear wheels spins, but when it is hot it is not even loose traction when it is wet in first gear....
Sorry to revive an old thread but i too have the same mysterious issue.
A while ago the car started to misfire a little when doing part throttle and bogs, exhaust note seems a little louder, when i first turn it on cold, if i punch it in 2nd gear it loses traction, after about 5mins or something it loses a lot of power and even when in a turn it's hard to keep the wheels spinning in 2nd.
I did a vanos test using DIS, it said the vanos was working, also i saw the values while driving, it jumps quickly to the 'nominal' value. I've changed the intake cam sensor earlier because it had a powerloss issue, it turned out to be the exhaust solenoid wires were loose, so i resoldered them. It seems very odd, i have no weird faults in the ECU showing up, spark plugs seem ok, if i remove coilpack the cylinder misfires, dunno what it could be. The odd part is how it runs perfectly fine for first 5-10mins after a cold start then power loss comes. Any help appreciated.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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We've worked on a couple of these.
One, there's no check engine light provision. There's no pin on the ECU. So a VG diagnostic tool that supports that engine such as INPA or the like is a must.
After the car gets hot redouble your efforts to see of the cam solenoids (wiring repair) are still working?
 

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The thing is, when the exhaust solenoid went bad, the exhaust note was really loud, and the torque below 5k was insanely flat/non existent, right now its not very loud, and the torque isn't as flat, it just feels like something is missing, I've put the INPA/DIS program on it while running hot, oddly it showed that when punched in 3rd/4th gear at 3k, the ignition timing will go jump down from around 20'kw to 14.5'kw and stay there, then after around 4k or so it'll go to 18'kw and the car's power improves and you can feel it pulling harder, then it climbs to 20'kw. There are no knock sensor codes though. Also could it still be the wiring is somewhat bad even if the DIS program shows the vanos states 'nominal' ? like it says nominal 20" and immediately the actual one is 19.8 or so. I might change the MAF sensor soon because sometimes it was showing a MAF sensor fault it said "intermittent", the code comes and goes sometimes.
 
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