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Hey friends,
First post! Ive been stalking these forums for years now, and only now did I need to make a thread of my own for a problem. Goes to show how much intelligence there is in this community. Hopefully you guys can help me out.


So here goes, this is a bit of a long one, so buckle up. I bought my 325Ci back in August (about 7 months ago). When I bought it, everything was perfect, obviously. About a month later my idles would dip a bit when I started the car up after it being parked for 12+ hours (a cold start). BTW, for reference, I live in Australia, outside temp averages about 17-30 C (~62 - 86F). I didn't worry about the dip in idles until one day (about a month later again) my car actually stalled at a light. I had been noticing upon taking off (so when first applying pressure to the gas pedal) that my RPM would dip to about 600 RPM then go up to 1000+ and continue normally. However sometimes, even when the engine was at temp, as soon as I apply gas the car would stall. I have an SMG transmission, so it's quite embarrassing the my 'automatic' car, stalls. That's when I got my OBD II device out and found a MAF code. I forget the actual code, sorry.


But MAF sensor problem? No drama, easy fix. So I went out (on ebay, stupidly) and bought a MAF sensor. I know, I should have gotten a OEM or Genuine part, but I'm still learning. But the ebay MAF did fix the issue. I have never stalled at a light since.


However the story doesn't end there, as you might expect. Soon after I installed the MAF sensor, same day in fact, I got an ICV valve error code. Again, I don't remember the actual code, but three lights came up on the dash and my car felt sluggish, as if it was running on 2 or 4 cylinders, instead of 6. Simply turning the car off and on again would fix that problem, but it would occasionally pop up on trips.


At this point my car still struggled to keep idle on a cold start, sometimes even stalling. So I went out and got a ICV valve. Genuine part this time guys, from the wreckers! So that fixed my ICV valve engine code error, and my car no longer goes into that 'Safe mode.'


Ive also had a service on the car around this time, who cleared and recalibrate the car and the codes. So that could have contributed to some of those fixes.


BUTTT my car still really hates waking up from a deep slumber, and I'm starting to run out of ideas why. I get a CEL for a vacuum leak. I'm not surprised, as I've been pulling out the intake hose so often to clean and replace the ICV and MAF. It was to be expected. A BMW certified mechanic recommended that I replace the DISA Valve. So I take the car apart to inspect the part. DISA valve is in great shape, it holds a vacuum, the butterfly hinge is sturdy; I don't think it needs replacing. But it does need a new O ring, as it has worn from all the playing around I've done with it in the past few months.


So now we are up to this week on the timescale. I installed the new Oring for the DISA valve a couple of days ago, cleared the vacuum leak codes, and let the car sit for almost 24 hours. Started her up, andddd she struggles. The RPM gauge is bouncing up and down between 500RPM and 1000 and you can here the car almost gurgle. :ben:


On the bright side, vacuum leak error hasn't come back, but that code usually showed up on highway drives, which I have not done since the O ring install. I will update the thread as I'm going for a 2 hour drive this weekend. Hopefully the O ring solved at least one of my problems.


But this is where I am stuck. I've pretty much gone through what I know could be causing such a bad startup. I gave you the whole story here, hoping that every details counts, but I probably flooded you with too much. Anyway, what else could be causing this?

Thanks for you time :)
 

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Thanks for your responce jfoj! In that post, you mentioned that if it is a soft failure of the pump, I wouldn't have any drama starting up the car, but would experience a hesitant throttle (I do experience this actually). Also, I don't run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I actually ran it very low yesterday, without any dramas. Could this still be a sign of a bad fuel pump?

I also planned to do a Fuel filter replacement as I don't know if it was done by previous owner. I guess that could also be contributing to this problem.
 

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I replace most of the fuel pumps by year 8 on my cars, I do not like to walk and they start to get soft and do stupid things. Fuel pumps are consumable and do not last forever, so you might as well consider replacing it on YOUR schedule, not the CARS schedule.

This may or may not be your problem, plenty of other things to check and follow up on.

Fuel Trim values and other engine data can also give some clues as to what may be going on.
 
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