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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 330Ci vert with 193,000 miles (310,603KM) with a rough idle and over all sluggish performance. This mimicked the behavior of my DISA failure but unlike the DISA failure clearing codes doesn't even give a moment of clean idle/running.

The issues began today when I went to start my car after it had sat in the cold untouched for 4 or 5 days. The battery was dead as a door knob...to be expected. Got a jump and it started just fine. the idle was rough, I usually have a rough idle upon start as I have a minor vacuum leak somewhere but after five minutes the car idles so smooth I feel the need to check my tachometer. Knowing my car was running bad I had it down a gear and when making a turn I
1) found out my traction control isn't working, due to a speed sensor and 2) got the tach up to 5,000 twice in a quick burst before letting off the gas and then shifting into second. I'm not sure if the car was running normally at that point or not looking back on it. But now it runs like crap

The car has a noticeable loss of power, sounds different, sounds like a car with 1 or 2 misfiring cylinders, on a short test drive I stopped at a gas station and it idled smoothly upon pressing the gas it got rough and any idle afterward was rough.

When driving I feel the misfire when accelerating but when lightly pressing the gas enough to maintain speed I don't feel a thing and when coasting (I assume most cars shut off the injectors when coasting) it is also smooth but when I give it enough gas to cause acceleration I feel the tell tale shake.

Codes: P1349 - Cylinder 4 misfire with fuel cut off

P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire detected (I assume this is because more than one cylinder has a fault code or means the car knows there are multiple misfires but can't determine the cylinder)

P1351 - Cylinder 5 misfire with fuel cut off

I have rebuilt the DISA with the kit from G.A.S. months ago without issue.
So unless that somehow failed despite having all metal parts I fear I may have two burnt exhaust valves

Would it be worth my time to move around the coil packs and plugs? They are less than 1.5 years old. but from what I've read they are very unlikely.
Also my oil level sensor doesn't work, I check the oil religiously as I do have an oil pan leak, is it possible the cold weather would allow for the dipstick to read full when it's low? I tend to lose much less oil when letting the car sit for a week compared to driving 100 miles round trip to my internship every day.

Thanks in advance for reading this, all help is appreciated!
 

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You had 3 things that really contributed to your overall problem.

1. Very cold temperatures
2. The car sat in very cold temperatures for 4-5 days (typically for these engines to misfire when sitting for more than a few days in very cold temperatures)
3. The battery was dead and you had to jump start the car

So once you shut the engine off and restarted it, did the Misfire with Fuel Cut Off and misfiring stop??

Once the misfire counter hits a specific value, the DME shuts of the fuel injector to the offending cylinder(s) and this is why the engine runs rough and lacks power. Usually shutting the engine off and restarting it will clear the Fuel Cut Off, but it could return if the misfire counter increases too quickly.

Doubtful it is an ignition coil problem, especially if the problem has gone away since the battery is charged/replaced and the engine has been warmed up.

Suggest you read this thread - Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
After restarting a few times and four more test drives it's still running horribly.

I've looked at most of the attached thread, thanks for the input, and thanks for diagnosing my DISA valve a few months ago. I appreciate you being so active in the forums!
 

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E46 hates low battery voltage. Sounds like a typical low battery voltage problem combined with a vacuum leak. . In the car turn the key to position 2, hold the trip reset button on your cluster (the left one) until you see "test 1". When "test 1" pops up, keep clicking until 19. When you reach test 19, stop clicking until you see "test 19.0". Now click once and it'll go back to test 1. Keep clicking until test 9 - that'll be your battery voltage. Report back with what it is
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, I'll do that tomorrow, My car has been starting up perfectly and the volt meter on the jumper box showed it was well into the charging range about 13.5V-14.2V if I recall correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I honestly don't have a clue, I purchased the car at 153,000 miles two years ago. Everything but the DISA, plugs, and coils could be original for all I know.
 

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Need Freeze Frame data along with warm idle Fuel Trim values to get a better idea about what may be going on.

If the CCV and hoses and intake boots are original, they are probably way over due for replacement.

Smoke test will find vacuum/air leaks in seconds except for a bad power brake booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I started the car up today, didn't start as smoothly as normal...as if my battery wasn't at 100%, not surprising after the cold weather. Drove her home (About 2 miles) Still had a rough idle but it's always had a rough idle when warming up. I had no acceleration but if I only lightly touched the gas it drove just like normal. I get home and sit for a minute, the RPMs fluctuated a little then smooth as glass, revved it up to 3K, still smooth. I start reading about fuel filter symptoms and I think that's my issue, it's likely the original or at least due for a new one.

Would you guys agree?
 

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Car is 15 years old, basic maintenance like spark plugs and a fuel filter should have been replaced a long time ago.

Car probably needs Pre-cat O2 sensors replaced as well by now.

But the battery performance may be a bigger player in this than you realize. You need to get the battery properly charged, tested and replaced as needed.

You should read these threads for more ideas of very common problem areas:

Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501
 

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The battery is only a year old so I highly doubt it.
Thanks for the other info!
You clearly stated the battery was not 100%, but you do not know exactly how charged the battery is and if it has the proper capacity without it being properly tested.

You cannot base a battery state of charge or the battery capacity on the age of the battery. A new battery can be bad and/or low on charge. Temperature directly impacts a batteries performance and a constant draw on the battery can drain a perfectly good, fully charged new battery. Even a cell phone charger can be a problem after a while since the lighter sockets are not switched on these cars.

The ONLY quick way to verify a batteries state of charge is with a Voltmeter and even a properly and fully charged battery is not necessarily a good battery, a battery capacity test then needs to be performed.
 
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