The lower control arms can be found with or without ball joints, but why would you want them without ball joints? I suppose that if you had your own press to take them out, and put new ones in, then it might make cents (see what I did there?) to buy ball joints only, but this seems like a false economy to me. Each arm has a bushing on it, plus the ball joint, plus the bushing that goes into the firewall (that can be purchased separately or as part of the control arm kit).

This diagram is for the E36, but the E46 is similar, Item 18 is the ball joint, Items 4 & 5 make up the lower control arm bushing, Item 3 is the Control Arm and includes the bushing that locates the arm on the frame. The bushing that locates the arm is not available separately, the other items are, but why would you want to get the ball joint separately? Item 18 is a wear itemm but if you have to take all of the other stuff off, why put it back on? (You can enter the last 7 digits of your VIN to get the actual parts for your car. I'm not suggesting you buy your parts at BMW, but knowing what the parts are helps get the right parts from whichever source you elect to use.)

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts 3' E36 325i Front axle support/wishbone

www.realoem.com

 

bushings are somewhat easy. balljoints are pressed in and other than Meyle HD that design them to be replaced if needed your current ones prob not worth that effort/danger of not fitting properly. besides labor involved to remove and press in prob more that just replacing units.
buy reputable replacement control arms and bushing and do by yourself. most novices can do this. only recall one inept member insisting on using a chisel unable to do over the almost two decades being on the forum.

 

most novices can do this. only recall one inept member insisting on using a chisel unable to do over the almost two decades being on the forum.

It was me the inept member.
The whole point I wanted to make is that don't use the fork for the outer joint as it could pull the ball out of the socket instead of the tapered pin out of the knuckle. My chisel is similar to the fork because the 2-prong fork actually only worked as one-prong: the lower arm is not perfect horizontal but the knuckle bottom face is horizontal, and so the fork cannot make contact on both prongs.

 

Is there any way to just replace the bushings?

yes

bushings are somewhat easy.

very easy when u have the control arm off the car

but unfortunately with OE...

balljoints are pressed in and other than Meyle HD that design them to be replaced

...which i change into to avoid buying the whole control arm just to replace balljoints in the future.

only recall one inept member insisting on using a chisel unable to do over the almost two decades being on the forum.

in before admin close the thread

 

As a former manager at Mavis….. they’ll rob you and use cheap parts like moog and worse! Waste of time lmao

Meyle HD arms are the only brand that allows for the ball joints to be replaced separately.
They the only brand i use for arms. Lemforders and many others (oem) joints aren’t made to come out outside the factory.
If you have a press you’ll be fine, just get a tube (metal) long enough to go over the inner ball joint as they’re long af. Coming out u can cut the stems, not going in. The outer joints you can use a 30-34mm deep socket to press them back in. Done them three times on 2/3 of my 46’s over 12 yrs. Meyle HD’s suspension parts last fairly longer over lemforder and in most cases are cheaper too. As long as you’re not lowered too much (below an inch you’ll be changing bushing and joints in a yr or two.


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As a former manager at Mavis….. they’ll rob you and use cheap parts like moog and worse! Waste of time lmao

Meyle HD arms are the only brand that allows for the ball joints to be replaced separately.
They the only brand i use for arms. Lemforders and many others (oem) joints aren’t made to come out outside the factory.
If you have a press you’ll be fine, just get a tube (metal) long enough to go over the inner ball joint as they’re long af. Coming out u can cut the stems, not going in. The outer joints you can use a 30-34mm deep socket to press them back in. Done them three times on 2/3 of my 46’s over 12 yrs. Meyle HD’s suspension parts last fairly longer over lemforder and in most cases are cheaper too. As long as you’re not lowered too much (below an inch you’ll be changing bushing and joints in a yr or two.


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Guys at Mavis were totally trying to screw me, we just put it on the lift and every ball joint was servicable except the removable bushing on the end which I can get new ones of for $25! They were trying to scam me those guys. I'm likely going to get some other rear trailing arm bushings as well while I'm at it, then go somewhere else to get it aligned since Mavis was trying to scam me for $800

EDIT: by serviceable I mean in good shape not replaceable my car didn't have Bougie arms on it or anything sadly

 

The bushings are easy even with the arms in the car. If it needs ball joints then replace the entire control arms, which isn't too hard but is more involved than just the bushings.

 

i would not cheap out on the control arm bushings (at end). stock are fluid filled and cheap ones rupture more easily. if you decide to go with stock again I suggest Lemforder which are who make them for BMW.

 

I'm getting meyle control arm bushings, they will press into the lollipop things which will be totally fine since I have access to a press.

 

Alright, I replaced the control arm bushings (and nothing else) then I brought the car in to get aligned. Looking like my ball joints are bad so I guess I'm shelling out $300 to Meyle for new control arms

Edit: If anyone has advice for other stuff that I should buy while I'm at it please let me know. I'm thinking about getting tie rod ends and sway bar links but they look fine to me. I did think that my ball joints were fine too though when they clearly are not so maybe I should just replace everything

 

so maybe I should just replace everything

if u need to, but should...

the car in to get aligned.

...last

 

^^^ I’m bad about while-I’m-in there…

Then again, I do all my own work, so by saving money on labor, I buy more parts.

 

suppose a case could be made for outer tie rods could be made.
me, I’d be at ease (unless you notice something is a bit off) doing just the CAs and CABs and be done.