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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
I have never been able to get anything but a BMW sensor to work. All OEM's I have tried never worked, never got a good connection in the socket. None of them seated like the BMW one If you have state safety inspections and/or do you own work, best thing to do is to cut the sensor off and join the ends. Not a great loss since the system doesn't provide any wear information.
This is the first I have ever read that you MUST use BMW genuine wear sensors.
Can someone verify this?

I am getting sick and tired of chasing this.
Where exactly do I cut the sensor.

One of your brake pad sensors must be bad. It could be front or back. Are you sure the warning light that is on is the brake sensor light and not another brake warning light. Good luck!
It's this light

Sounds like you have destroyed the rear sensor. Buy a new one and get done of the copper U shapes clips as extras.
Installing it does require a lot of force. It should slide easily into the brake pad. And make sure it pointing the right way
This is already the 2nd sensor.
I installed it correctly into the brake pad.

You could chase this for days......
Go to the dealer or online. Buy two (front & rear) GENUINE sensors. Install and listen for the click and w/o depressing the tab try to see if they pull apart? If not the connector is solid.
Let us know if this puts to rest your issue?
Already have. I prefer not to buy sensors for the third time. F that.
When people cut the sensor and tie it together, it still needs to have a perfect connection at the junction, right?
If the connection at the junction box is bad, cutting off the sensor and tying the wires will not fix this, right?

I'd start by confirming that the wear sensors are good. Just disconnect the sensor and put an ohmmeter or test light on the leads to the sensor. You should get close to zero ohms if it's good. It's also a good idea to wiggle the wire while the meter is connected to see if there's a break somewhere.... those wires are a pretty small diameter and can break easily.
The sensor is brand new out of the box.
I am testing the sensor and not the cable connected to the car, right?
The sensor has female leads in a deep cavity, so I have no idea how I could connect a MM to it.
Have you ever actually done this?

You screwed up now! Strickland is one of the few members here who can be considered an expert.
He posted such blatantly wrong information and I had to clear it up.
The test is done in POS 2, like I Said all along.
Please get lost with your idiot trolling.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Maybe scanning the cluster for error codes using INPA / BMW scanner can tell you which circuit is fault (rear or front).
I connected BMW Scanner / PA Soft to the car and did not see anything related to brake wear sensors.
So, that was a dead end.
 

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He posted such blatantly wrong information and I had to clear it up.
The test is done in POS 2, like I Said all along.
Please get lost with your idiot trolling.
You're a load your mama shoulda swallowed.

I hope you never figure this out, and no one helps you. You have a sh*t attitude and don't deserve to be helped.
 

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Last sensor I used was a PEX from BAvauto when they were still open, haven't bought another as I have reused each until I couldn't get to one on time and got worn down to trigger- that I cut about 3 inches from the worn tip, look for the 2 wires ,solder them together, zip tied and tucked them away from the brake pads.
Did the reset procedure and pad sensor warning light gone.
Do what I did with the your old sensor since it's already worn....see if that clears your problem...
 

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Front brakes were replaced last year, so that's not the issue.

Light came on, saw the rear pads were very low.
I replaced rear brake pads, rotors, and wear sensor.

Warning light will not go off.
What could be the issue?
Worn brake pad sensor light reset procedure

If you replace the front or rear sensor as part of servicing your brakes, the WORN BRAKE PADS light will not reset by itself. To reset the light, just turn the key ON for 30 seconds. The light will go out - you're done, you can now start the car or just shut it off .


Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I know you stated that you replaced the front pads, but did you confirm the front sensors are still ok?
As I recall, the brake pad wear sensor didn't trigger a code for my scanner (an Autel tablet; don't recall the model number at the moment) to pick up. Anyway, if your confident of the sensor you replaced, please check the front sensor. It's possible that it could have come loose. That happened to me in a hard braking situation. I wish you luck in resolving your car's problem.
A few weeks ago, I ordered a new rear sensor and replaced it.
No luck, light still on,

Been very busy, but finally made some time to look at this brake light issue today.
Today, I went to just verify I had pressed the connector closed firmly.
Connector 100% seated. Light still on.

Then, like the posts above suggested, I decided to check the FRONT wear sensor.
I knew there was 0% chance it was worn down, since I replaced the front pads/rotors last year.
(Just checked, actually it was 2.5 years ago, and 30k miles ago. The front pads are still THICK today)

Lo and behold, the front sensor was detached, but appeared intact.
Does simply getting detached but not broken trigger the warning light?
Regardless, I cut off the sensor, and spliced the 2 wires together.
I used a utility knife to strip the sheath, since the wires are too thin for traditional wire strippers.
Warning light is now off.

So, what a total head fake.
Front brakes are still like new, but the detached FRONT sensor triggered the light,
so I of course checked and saw the very low REAR pads, but the rear never actually triggered the wear sensor in the first place.

 

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Wow, I have been watching this episode and wondering if OP having the same issue as I do. Yours is an easy one.

my pad warning light has been On for the last 5 years even the sensors wires had been cut and soldered together. I’m an electronic engineer but gave up. I finally just taped up the dash light.
 

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A few weeks ago, I ordered a new rear sensor and replaced it.
No luck, light still on,

Been very busy, but finally made some time to look at this brake light issue today.
Today, I went to just verify I had pressed the connector closed firmly.
Connector 100% seated. Light still on.

Then, like the posts above suggested, I decided to check the FRONT wear sensor.
I knew there was 0% chance it was worn down, since I replaced the front pads/rotors last year.
(Just checked, actually it was 2.5 years ago, and 30k miles ago. The front pads are still THICK today)

Lo and behold, the front sensor was detached, but appeared intact.
Does simply getting detached but not broken trigger the warning light?
Regardless, I cut off the sensor, and spliced the 2 wires together.
I used a utility knife to strip the sheath, since the wires are too thin for traditional wire strippers.
Warning light is now off.

So, what a total head fake.
Front brakes are still like new, but the detached FRONT sensor triggered the light,
so I of course checked and saw the very low REAR pads, but the rear never actually triggered the wear sensor in the first place.

Happened to me too. Front wire got destroyed and ended up doing all the brakes and rotors anyway. Decent amount of life left in them but it didnt matter to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Look at that photo. The sensor is totally intact. How could it have triggered the light ?
 

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Detached, tied up or under the hood (but still connected) will trip the warning light if the sensor is defective.
As I suggested many many posts ago, just get another sensor. They're cheap and made cheaply. It's NOT uncommon to have a bad one or even two.
Likely his issues were where the wires loop inside the rubbing block. Cutting and twisting the ends together bear that out.
 

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It's rare anymore that a brake sensor warning lamp has issues with the circuit. Back with the old cars the lamp could be erroneously displayed for one or more (all at the same time) for a bad inst. cluster mother or S.I. board, wires from under the hood/back seat down the arms and onto the connector for the sensor itself.

Nowadays when confronted with such, we replace the sensor(s) go into ISTA and query the sensor status itself. 99% of the time, it's a bad sensor.
 
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