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Discussion Starter #1
Front brakes were replaced last year, so that's not the issue.

Light came on, saw the rear pads were very low.
I replaced rear brake pads, rotors, and wear sensor.

Warning light will not go off.
I let the car sit with key in ACC/#2 for 5 mins. Light stays on.
I also tried the cruise control "+" button for 10 seconds with the key in ACC/#2. Light just stays on.
I tried driving around the block. Light just stays on.

The new wear sensor only attaches one way, and I squeezed it hard together.
What could be the issue?
 

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Front brakes were replaced last year, so that's not the issue.

Light came on, saw the rear pads were very low.
I replaced rear brake pads, rotors, and wear sensor.

Warning light will not go off.
I let the car sit with key in ACC/#2 for 5 mins. Light stays on.
I also tried the cruise control "+" button for 10 seconds with the key in ACC/#2. Light just stays on.
I tried driving around the block. Light just stays on.

The new wear sensor only attaches one way, and I squeezed it hard together.
What could be the issue?
I'd say if you've done every thing right go for a little drive...if they don't clear on their own...use the scanner to clear and see if codes come back.

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
 

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2001 330xi
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Front brakes were replaced last year, so that's not the issue.

Light came on, saw the rear pads were very low.
I replaced rear brake pads, rotors, and wear sensor.

Warning light will not go off.
I let the car sit with key in ACC/#2 for 5 mins. Light stays on.
I also tried the cruise control "+" button for 10 seconds with the key in ACC/#2. Light just stays on.
I tried driving around the block. Light just stays on.

The new wear sensor only attaches one way, and I squeezed it hard together.
What could be the issue?
At this point you don't know what the error is for, so yes, hook up a scanner and read the error code(s).
fana
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does clearing DTC codes clear the brake light warning ?
 

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2004 330i Individual 6-Speed
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I know you stated that you replaced the front pads, but did you confirm the front sensors are still ok?
 

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Front brakes were replaced last year, so that's not the issue.

Light came on, saw the rear pads were very low.
I replaced rear brake pads, rotors, and wear sensor.

Warning light will not go off.
I let the car sit with key in ACC/#2 for 5 mins. Light stays on.
I also tried the cruise control "+" button for 10 seconds with the key in ACC/#2. Light just stays on.
I tried driving around the block. Light just stays on.

The new wear sensor only attaches one way, and I squeezed it hard together.
What could be the issue?

POINT OF ORDER
OFF is Position 0, ACC is Position 1, Position 2 is RUN, START does not have a key position because the key returns by itself to Position 2.
 

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The key positions are
0, OFF
1, ON
2, RUN
START

On is also referred to as ACC, some of the electrical circuits are available, others are not. In RUN, all electrical systems are available.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I had the key all the way forward without cranking the engine. Position #2.
So, that is not my issue
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I plugged in my Creator 310+ and it said there are no fault codes.
So, this light is NOT a code that can be cleared.

Can the warning light be turned off using PA Soft / BMW Scanner?
If so, how so I do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know you stated that you replaced the front pads, but did you confirm the front sensors are still ok?
I am starting to think I was fooled by the light.

Maybe my rear brakes were low, but not low enough to trigger the light.
Maybe the system has malfunctioned, and I just saw low-ish rear brakes, assumed that caused the light, and changed the rear brakes for no reason.
Like maybe they did not even trigger the light. I don't remember if the rear sensor was destroyed when I removed it.

I guess I should check the front sensor. Maybe it got loose or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is there a way to turn off the light, so I can see if it comes back on?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At this point you don't know what the error is for, so yes, hook up a scanner and read the error code(s).
fana
There are no error codes.
Brake light is not an ECU fault code.
 

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2004 325i automagic
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Off hand I think the pad wear limit is around 3mm material remaining, so you could measure the old pads. Not sure if the sensor activates the warning light below that threshold or not, but I think if the sensor wiring has shorted to ground somewhere then the light might stay on regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Off hand I think the pad wear limit is around 3mm material remaining, so you could measure the old pads. Not sure if the sensor activates the warning light below that threshold or not, but I think if the sensor wiring has shorted to ground somewhere then the light might stay on regardless.
Yea, I have no idea how to troubleshoot that
 

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I think the cluster itself determines if the brake pad wear sensors are open or closed.
Maybe scanning the cluster for error codes using INPA / BMW scanner can tell you which circuit is fault (rear or front).
 

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Yea, I have no idea how to troubleshoot that
I replaced all mine, however it took probably 45 minutes driving to clear it.
It would be easier to just try driving it like Enrkgkid did to see if it clears up by itself after a spell.

Another possibility would be scanning the abs/dsc module itself for error codes and clearing it that way. Not sure about the creator 310 scanner, but PA Soft or INPA should be able to do it.
 

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You can't clear brake pad sensor indications. Not is it really a fault.

It's just a thin wire run into a piece of plastic. When it touches the brake rotors it breaks the wire. The light come on in the cluster. Information is shared with DSC as information only.
With some higher level scan tools, one can see the status of the pad sensor, good or broken only.

Install sensor, KOEO for 5 min. Drive car to test the brake work you've just performed, including one panic stop. (Gotta know, right?)
By the time you return and another key cycle, the light will be off.
If not you've either not connected the sensor fully (did you hear it click? Will it NOT pull apart?) or the sensor is bad.

Again status (Sensor worn or not) can be viewed in ABS/ASC/DSC. It's never really a fault to be set and then cleared per se.
 

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Ok, I had the key all the way forward without cranking the engine. Position #2.
So, that is not my issue

Why not? If the key position is supposed to be Position 1, (ON) then Position II (RUN) is not the one to reset the circuit. The car knows the difference in ON and RUN, and ON without advancing to RUN is not a valid condition so the computer knows this is a time to reset a fault that would not be reset in the RUN position.
 
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