Could you have mixed up the connectors?

 

unless they were mixed up originally then no. I did them once at a time.

should I swap the connections and find out or would the screw something up badly?

 

also I came across this thread.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=445105

 

Do not swap the O2 sensor wiring if you think you did connect them correctly.

BUT, what brand O2 sensors did you purchase and did you purchase the O2 sensors that already had the connectors installed or did you need to splice the old connectors on the new sensors??

The old O2 sensors were likely working fine. What were the specific codes for the sensors? Heater circuit? This is the only O2 sensor code that is usually valid and usually you can skip replacement for some time if the heater circuit is out.

Chances you may have a Lean condition or broke or cracked a vacuum line while taking the car apart.

Do you have the ability to pull Freeze Frame and Fuel Trim data with your current tool? This would be helpful.

 

Do not swap the O2 sensor wiring if you think you did connect them correctly.

BUT, what brand O2 sensors did you purchase and did you purchase the O2 sensors that already had the connectors installed or did you need to splice the old connectors on the new sensors??

"ULTRA-POWER 2344672 UPSTREAM; Base Model"

The old O2 sensors were likely working fine. What were the specific codes for the sensors? Heater circuit? This is the only O2 sensor code that is usually valid and usually you can skip replacement for some time if the heater circuit is out.

I do believe the heater circuit code was up there once and awhile.
p1343
p1347

those were the two main codes that come up.

Chances you may have a Lean condition or broke or cracked a vacuum line while taking the car apart.

The car was running lean as far as I can tell. but I don't think I cracked a vacuum line. The pre cat 02 sensors are right there at the top easy access. I only had to move the bracket for the air pump. any lines going to that are still good.

Do you have the ability to pull Freeze Frame and Fuel Trim data with your current tool? This would be helpful.

I cant. I just have a peak tool.

 

I cant. I just have a peak tool.

:facepalm:

The Peake Reader is a boat anchor when it comes to driveability issues.

Sorry, but this is the truth. You have not ability to monitor Live/Realtime data, Fuel Trim values, Freeze Frame info. You have to get a decent tool that will do these things.

I can almost guarantee there is one or more vacuum leak. Everything to CCV and hoses, Intake Boots, DISA or brake booster.

Get an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less. These Apps are usually best for drivability issues and they support Emission Readiness Monitor Status, Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data. They are also great for Logging data for review after the car has been driven and can really help find unusual problems.

Android - Touch Scan for $5.00 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface.

iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.99 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface.

Some people prefer to have an extension cable to keep the interface away from their feet.

Something like these cables are often of interested:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...oduct/B00JKOSAVS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A13I33IUTGJ9BK

http://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Extensi...t-144201/dp/B000SBCHCA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1D2JWFQ9HPSGWZ2SB34Q

I usually suggest getting the OBDII interfaces from Amazon if you are located in the US/North America. Make sure you choose an interface that indicates that the order will be "Fulfilled by Amazon" otherwise you may be waiting for WEEKS for an interface to arrive from Asia. Ebay is another option, but pay attention where the interface will be shipped from, again weeks for an interface from Asia, so if you can wait and want to try to save some money, go for it, but if you need an interface soon, choose wisely.

 

Do not even bother to pull plugs at his point. It your are at 1/4 tank of fuel add another 1/4. Just warm it up and drive carefully.

 

why wouldnt i? its at a full tank

 

Ok replaced all plugs and cel went away asap. Until i started to drive it

 

Fuel pump or vacuum leak are the most likely things to be giving you problems at this age.

 

Any solid way to check without tearing the car apart? Im willing to put the money into fixing it but i dont want to throw money into fixing random things and hoping it works.

Will that obd2 adaptor help check for it someway?

 

Check the fuel pump by testing fuel pressure.

 

And how do you do that

 

Just a heads up these cars don't take aftermarket sensors that well. I know its your beater winter car but just putting it out there. For longevity 02 sensors go with Bosch.

 

Smoke test is the quickest and best way to find vacuum leaks. OBDII App will not tell you where the problems are or what needs to be replaced, but will tell you how bad your problem is and if you are closer to resolving it.

Forget the fuel pump pressure test, it is misleading. You need to do a fuel pressure and volume test, but why bother, the pump is 12+ years old, it needs to be replaced. Why get stranded on the coldest day of the year. Ask me how I know, but i was lucky.

 

OK so I got to work this morning and let the car idle for 30 minutes (yea I know not the best thing for carbon build up) and I was able to drive it for 5 miles without misfires. I'll attempt to get it home tonight if I can do the same thing and then replace the fuel pump. the Valve cover gasket I did myself when I first bought the car and actually did it correctly so I'm hoping thats not an issue. I'll check for leaks today but my brief search came up with nothing.

 

10 minutes to warm up should be fine. If it starts to misfire and kills one or more cylinders, turn engine off and restart it.

 

Heres the data without the car misfiring



heres the data when the car is misfiring. Notice the 02 sensor voltage change?

 

Can't easily review the data until next week. Pay attention to the fuel trims above +3.0% and you should be looking for problems.

 

Not miss firing data - voltage is too low and air temp too high.
Miss firing data - same thing.
Check alternator and IAT, imho.

o2 voltage didn't change. Were freeze frames taken at same time?


But jfoj is the expert, so wait for his analysis.

 

Not sure I can make much out what is provided. What I can say is the Freeze Frame info shows misfiring while cruising which is most likely MAF or fuel pump.

Personnaly I would recommend a fuel pump for any E series BMW due to age.

Really need Log data. Read this info, it is not fully complete but may give you some ideas.

Also note fuel system status for Bank #1 is 8 which means there is a fault of some sort for this Bank.

Not sure I understand the low Voltage comment. 13.5 volts to 14.5 Volts is fine.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1080334

 

I commented in your other thread on Touch Scan.

You need to spend 20-30 minutes playing with it. The problem with ALL smart phone/tablet Apps is they only have 1 physical button, a few soft buttons and a LOT of hidden menus from pressing and holding on the screen.

Touch Scan is FAR more intuitive than other Apps.

First change the MAF reading from Pounds/Min to Grams/Sec, stupid EASY.

Settings, Units, Airflow, choose g/s.

Temp sometimes can be more useful in C vs F, but no so critical.

Settings, Log Setup then set the following:

Logging Enabled - checked

Logging Trigger - choose Trigger at a fixed sample time

Sample Time - choose 1000 msec

Log GPS Items - suggest you unselect it as to not advertise where you live

Select Items to Log - This varies a bit for each car. But here is a list I like to see:

Fuel - do not check any of these 3 items

SAE PID's:

Fuel system 1 status
Fuel system 2 status
Calculated load value
Engine coolant temperature
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2
Engine RPM
Vehicle speed
Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder
Intake air temperature
Mass air flow rate
O2 Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1) - not all cars have this
O2 Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) - not all cars have this
O2 Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
O2 Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
O2 sensor Voltage wide range (Bank 1, Sensor 1) - not all cars have this
O2 sensor Voltage wide range (Bank 2, Sensor 1) - not all cars have this
Input Voltage read by the scan tool

Before you clear codes, get the Freeze Frame data and email or save the screen shot if this is an option. Freeze Frame data saves about 20+ questions as to what is going on.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1080334

I copy and pasted that post into here so I can have quick access.

One of the screens the voltage goes from .75 to .25
but when I get home tonight I'll program the app like you mentioned in the thread and post results.

now that the car is home I have most of the tools, skills and money to repair most likely whatever is needed to be replaced I just don't want to spend a few hundred on a fuel pump without knowing thats the issue. If it turns out to be worse and not worth the time or effort (head needs a rebuild or something like that) then It'd just be a waste of money.

stupid question but is there a way to tell if the fuel filter is bad? I'm going to check it out tonight but is there a sure fire way to figure out if its bad?

 

Fuel pump is like $127 on your doorstep.

 

Any brand you recommend? Anything else I need to do the job? Special tools, gaskets etc etc?

GMB 515-2020 Fuel Pump Module Assembly

 

http://www.filedropper.com/csvlog20150822200306

heres a data log for the misfire. misfire starts at line 374ish right after I left from a dead stop.

 

You have to be patient, I am working on about 3 1/2 sleep after driving 1100 miles in 15 hours, 45 minutes straight. Do the math on that one! I'm a bit off my Cannonball Run time.

Anyway, would like to see the Fuel Trim info, not sure why this is missing.

Looking at the O2 sensors, the Pre-Cats look pretty good. The Post-Cat Bank #1 looks lazy/bad. But the Post-Cat sensor is not factoring into the current problem.

Looking at the Bank #1 Pre & Post sensors they both react to what appears to the same event an go Lean at the same time.

My first guess would be possible fuel pump unless the sensor faulty.

If you did not want to spend money, you could remove both sensors and swap them for a test and see what happens.

 

the post cat 02 sensors haven't been replaced yet by me. If they're the same age as the pre cat ones, they need to be changed. I ordered both previously but haven't installed them yet.

I'm not sure why the Fuel Trim info is missing. I was swapping back and forth on my phone from this thread to the app to program it. I guess I missed that one.

Good luck on your drive pull over and get sleep if you need it. Also if you make your coffee using redbull it does wonders for keeping you awake!

my coworker takes his girlfriend's e46 to work sometimes, its a 325i coupe manual and its a few years newer, if I got a data log from that (since its running fine) do you think it would help to compare?

 

Double check what Fuel Trim items you are choosing to Log, you may have selected the wrong item. As I recall most of the Apps will show you Live data and/or have the reporting PID's highlighted or color coded.

I do not need to see a "good car", I have looked at enough data, I can usually figure something out, but sometimes it needs someone that can get hands on and do some more digging.

Don't worry, my 1100 mile leg was a one shot run and I am home now, I went to bed about 2:30 this morning, and was up at 6 am and I am still going, probably will not call it a night until midnight tonight.

My teenage son cannot keep up with the "old man"!

 

I'll be atleast replacing the fuel filter tomorrow first thing in the AM then will go from there. If that doesnt fix it I'll get some new logs.

 

OK fuel filter replaced. Pretty easy job except for stupid things. (hose clamps can only be loosened but cant be tightened, had to go buy new ones) Its still misfiring though.
Here is what the fuel looked like coming out of the inlet side of the fuel filter. but it only came out black from one of the ports I'm not sure if that means anything.

I hope this data log has the info you need. If it doesn't im not sure what to select. Im using that touchscan app.
http://www.filedropper.com/csvlog20150826120224

 

ok heres another log.
http://www.filedropper.com/4_5

i selected everything that the app said it can log from my vehicle. I dont know if every option is on the log though. I hope between all that I sent you can see something.

I didn't replace the fuel pump yet but I did check for vacuum leaks again using carb cleaner. I didn't see any. I'll try a smoke test but I'm fairly confident.

 

Not sure what is going on with your latest Log, lots of missing data points.

Double check and see what the Logging Trigger is set to, it should be set to a fixed sample rate.

Not 100% sure what is going on, I can see the Fuel Control system is going into Open Loop due to System Failure later in the log.

You may want to check just for fun the fuses in the DME box under the hood.

 

I'll check all fuses tonight. and recheck the data points. it took forever for it to connect to my phone yesterday so I have a feeling it just screwed up.

 

Restart your phone to clear out all the cached and swollen RAM as well.

 

I tried everything. Clearing the app data, restarting phone, trying to connect with the car running, with just the key to the on position etc etc. Finally after I tried to connect 5 times in a row it did.

 

I checked the fuses under the hood and they all look good but I don't know exactly what I'm looking for under there so theres that. Any ideas anyone? I'm about ready to throw in the towel.