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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gonna do rear brakes next week.

With front rotors, I just bash them off with 4lb. hammer.
How do you remove stuck rear rotors?
No opening for the hammer.

Here is a photo from the internet

 

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2005 e46 330xi 6spd
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Maybe the dust guard on mine is smaller? I took mine off last weekend and remember hitting them from the back with a small sledge. Maybe whack the edges on the front and that'll loosen it up?
 

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I just did this on my car for the rear rotors ... they were stuck on like crazy because of the rust but you just have to keep banging the front with a hammer and try to loosen it. I ended up banging the back a little bit too and then fixed the bent rotor guard but it really took a lot of banging to get out.

Keep banging! Lol it’ll eventually come off.

Just be careful because the rotor will pops off and fall onto your foot if it’s placed over there while banging with a hammer.


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Here's what I do for BMW 3-series rear rotors. First make sure the parking brake is off.

- Use a penetrating oil around the inner circumference of the rotor where it sits on the wheel hub concentric ring (i.e. the hub flange). Let the oil soak a few hours then reapply.
- Remove the brake caliper and caliper holder (cage).
- Use a piece of large-diameter wood dowel like 1-1/4 inch wood dowel that is used for clothes closet rod.
- Cut the dowel about 16 inches long.
- Place the dowel on the rotor where the cut-out is on the dust shield for the caliper.
- Use a 3-pound sledge hammer along with the wood dowel and smack the rotor a few times.
- Then rotate the rotor 60 degrees and smack it again.
- Rotate and repeat until the rotor pops off.
 

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hit the rotors with a hammer where they sit on the hub, or above them on the edge, doesn't matter. Just hit them from the front, not from behind. It will break loose from the shocks. Hit them hard, and they will come off.
 

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Heating around the hub, hitting the rotor as others have stated should also work. Failing that, if you don't have a hub puller you can make one from a piece of flat stock or angle iron. Soak the hub with penetrating oil. Cut the angle iron piece 1 inch longer then the width of the rotor hub. Drill two holes on opposing sides. Place in position on top of rotor hub, Insert 2 of the wheel lugs and tighten down to pull the rotor from the hub. Keep tightening and hitting the center of the angle iron until it breaks free.
 

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Front brake rotors stick because of oxidation/buildup between the hub and the inside face of the rotor.
Rears have the additional feature of the possibility of the parking brake shoes holding onto them also.

If the parking shoes are holding, repeated bashing from the inside (caliper & carrier removed) it sometimes can give rise to pulling out the 1/4 turn retainer pins off of the backing plate. No bueno.
If you damage the backing plate enough, you'll need to remove the hub/wheel bearing to install new ones!

The best way we've found is to remove the caliper/carrier. Spray your favorite penetrant in around the hub so that it gets between the rotor/hub. Avoiding getting any onto the parking shoes.
Grab one of the lug bolts and screw in about 3 turns. Bash the inner part of the rotor and/or the friction face until it breaks free. On the OUTSIDE face. Remove lug bolt (gives you freedom to bash away w/o worrying about your feet) and slide, wiggle, rotate until it's off.

If the parking brake shoes are the impediment to removal, place the rotor back on all the way. Go inside the car and exercise the parking brake up/down a few times. (Gets any repositioned shoes back in the right place) Then lift up the parking brake boot and loosen the two 10mm headed nuts about 5 turns anticlockwise.
Taking care NOT to remove.

Release brake handle and forcefully push the two cables down and towards the rear.
Repeat the removal procedure.

If the shoes/adjusters/cable pawls are really bad and/or shoes separated you will need to reinstall the rotor and working through the lug bolt hole and with a flashlight (torch for our British brethren) locate the star adjuster wheel and collapse it fully with a long thin screwdriver.

If you come across the last scenario, likely all the shoes/hardware need replacement. IMO only ATE parts should be used for that stuff.

Got a stripped head of the 6mm allen screw? No problem. Get a new one (comes with Brembo rotors) and just bash the rotor off. The head will break off and the leftover almost always spins out easily. Replace the screw.

It doesn't need to be that tight dammit. All it does is locate the rotor.

Clean the hubs thoroughly with a wire brush before installing any rotor. Grease the centering hubs with anti-seize. Also clean the corresponding center of the wheel when it's off.
 

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Loosen the lug bolts a bit (wheels on the car) and fire on the gas, then slam on the brakes. Keep doing that until the rotors break free of the hubs. Do this in your driveway, NOT on the road. Or just beat the hell out of the rotors with a hammer. Either will work eventually. Also, make sure to turn the ebrake star wheel so that the shoes are pulled in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
- Place the dowel on the rotor where the cut-out is on the dust shield for the caliper.
- Use a 3-pound sledge hammer along with the wood dowel and smack the rotor a few times.
- Then rotate the rotor 60 degrees and smack it again.
- Rotate and repeat until the rotor pops off.
So, you're basically tapping a pencil against the rotor?
What is the logic for the dowel?
 

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Loosen the lug bolts a bit (wheels on the car) and fire on the gas, then slam on the brakes. Keep doing that until the rotors break free of the hubs.
I was going to suggest this, but with the rear of the car in the air (and securely on jackstands) and the wheels removed. Quick and easy way to break them free.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will try to hit it from the backside.
And I will just bash the rotor directly, since I am replacing it.

I will also use Kroil on the hub edge.
I will also hit the front inner face of the rotor

Parking brake and rotor set screw won't be a problem.
I always loosen/lube the hex head set screw when the tires are off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was going to suggest this, but with the rear of the car in the air (and securely on jackstands) and the wheels removed. Quick and easy way to break them free.
You mean "drive" the car with the wheels jacked? (like a dyno) Then slam the brakes? Feels dangerous. I would only do this as a last resort if hammer blows fail.
 

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You mean "drive" the car with the wheels jacked? (like a dyno) Then slam the brakes? Feels dangerous. I would only do this as a last resort if hammer blows fail.
Yeah it's a Plan B type solution.

Hammer should work. I removed a stuck rear drum from my project 240Z that way a month or so ago, and it has a lot less area to pound on (the 1/2" or so of cooling fins that protruded from the backing plate were my target).
 

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Hammer to the rotor, alternating strike points (e.g. left, right, top, down) after a few blows.

That drive & brake method to pop off a rotor while up in the air sets off too many common sense red flags for me to ever attempt. :rofl:
 

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