Thanks!First off, lingon, excellent write-up. I wasn't expecting something so detailed when you said you were making a DIY. Additionally, thanks for your help and links the other day.
A few things worth mentioning in my experience with this so far (waiting for parts to ship):
1. It's not entirely necessary that you remove the throttle body when you go to do this job. While you're down there, of course, as you mentioned, it's wise to go ahead and clean it if it hasn't been cleaned. In my case, I was able to fit my hand by the CCV vacuum port and remove it, and put on the new hose. Kind of a tight fit, but I don't have small hands and it worked out fine. This time around, I ordered a TB gasket (Victor-Reinz from FCP) since I didn't replace that last time I cleaned my ICV and TB.
2. The CRP hose on FCP is great - especially if you're already ordering other parts, go ahead and add it to your order. However, if you're impatient like me, or in a cinch, you can go to your local auto parts store and pick up a 5/32" hose that fits equally as well. I do believe the metric for 5/32" is roughly ~3.9mm. Not too big of a difference in size, but again, I would opt for the 3.5 if it was viable for me.
3. Just thought it would be worth mentioning as well that an excellent alternative for throttle body cleaner is any fuel system cleaner. Particularly, I've used Lucas Fuel System Cleaner on the TB before and it cleaned it really well. Apparently lubricates the bushings on the valve of the TB as well. That being said, carburetor cleaner works well on the ICV too. Not that throttle body cleaner is anymore expensive than those two cleaners, but if you already have those then you can save yourself a few bucks.
I'll post back with any other notes I take from my install, and updates on my oil consumption. Currently, without the mod, I'm burning about a quart of oil every ~500 miles. Mobil 1 0W-40, if anyone's curious.
P.S - From the information I've gathered reading a majority of 02Pilot's original thread, the added crankcase vacuum is almost negligible. Especially in the context of cylinder wear.
I checked on RealOEM.com, and it looks like--for the XI, at least--the line goes directly to the vacuum canister, then out to the exhaust: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EU33-USA-11-2004-E46-BMW-325xi&diagId=18_0428Huh, I was under the impression that disconnecting that hose (since it leads to a vacuum canister, and then to the exhaust flap?) would create a small vacuum leak. I have the golf tee mod done on my car already, so I guess I didn't have to use the big port after all.
Sort of. The cold weather version looks like it doesn't have it, but it's under the insulation if you cut it open.Guys,
Is there a version of the CCV that doesn't have the unused port? I have an 03 330xi and I replaced the CCV a couple of years ago. I have the cold weather version and everything is encased in a rubber foam insulator.
I cannot locate any unused ports on mine.
Could you link us to one of your posts in his thread? I'd be really interested to see how you could access that port on the CCV from under the car. It seems like it'd be nearly impossible to get to.I have many posts in O2Pilot's thread where I detail how I did the mod. It took me a total of 15 minutes and used 3 feet of cheap auto parts store vacuum hose. There is no need to remove anything but the plastic belly pan and the cabin filter.
hodgkinsc330ci posted photos in another thread that made it look like this is a possibility. I'll link to this post and his post, when I find it, in the main post on this thread. The only reason to not remove the throttle body, in my opinion, is that it's already been cleaned recently. The lower intake boot is by far the most difficult part of this whole thing. The throttle body is possibly the easiest part. It's no more difficult than removing the cabin filter. Would you have been able to access the CCV without removing the lower intake boot?I was able to get to the port on my 330xi just now without removing the throttle body. I took the bolts out of the electrical connector box and moved it aside.
I did remove both boots but that showed me they needed replacing anyway. The plugged port is plenty far left of the TB so no need to take it off.
If I remember correctly, you did this on an e39, right? I very well might be confusing you with someone else, though.I have many posts in O2Pilot's thread where I detail how I did the mod. It took me a total of 15 minutes and used 3 feet of cheap auto parts store vacuum hose. There is no need to remove anything but the plastic belly pan and the cabin filter.
Here's my post from Spiffany's oil thread. As you can see in the first picture, there's room even with the TB still in place. However, it's a tight fit. I chose to later remove the TB so I could replace the gasket since I'm already down there.Below is an image of the capped port on the CCV - forgive the LQ cell phone pic. The cap is already removed in the picture.
I have an '06 ZHP and not only is it possible to do from the bottom on a standard E46 it's without a doubt the only way to go. Only takes two seconds to reach up and push it on the nipple and nothing is in the way.If I remember correctly, you did this on an e39, right? I very well might be confusing you with someone else, though.
It's impossible to go this route on the xi. There's no ambiguity about it whatsoever. Someone--it might have been you--mentioned this and it was the first thing I checked when considering this mod.
It might very well be possible with the regular E46. I don't know. Most people go from the top, though. Do you have any photos of the access method from below? I would be glad to link to them in the main post here. I added a note in the main post, linking to the places where you mention this as a possibility.
Assuming you manage to do this correctly, then how do you route the hose? Over the top of the engine? You still need to remove the panel covering the compartment where the master cylinder is, and you still need to remove the cabin filter and tray. It doesn't make any sense to save a few minutes by leaving the intake boots and wire harness box on. What if you snap the nipple on the CCV with your foot-long pliers?I use a very long set of needle nose pliers, to remove the cap on the CCV and then use the pliers again to install the vacuum hose . Just remove the air filter and maf,,simple and quick.
I am pretty sure I did it properly without removing the harness box and the throttle body, but I did remove the boots and the DISA valve. Long-nose pliers as mentioned come quite handy, but they have to be long. It was a bit more complicated for me since I had to deal with cold weather insulation covering the port on the side of the CCV. Had to cut a small hole in it to get access to the port.I'm all for shortcuts, but this can't be done properly, from the top, without detaching that wire harness box.
Well, I just run the hose out from where it comes and back around to the larger intake port, nothing incredibly hard about that , but ya know your probably right, you must study every side of that fly, before ya smash it,Assuming you manage to do this correctly, then how do you route the hose? Over the top of the engine? You still need to remove the panel covering the compartment where the master cylinder is, and you still need to remove the cabin filter and tray. It doesn't make any sense to save a few minutes by leaving the intake boots and wire harness box on. What if you snap the nipple on the CCV with your foot-long pliers?
I'm all for shortcuts, but this can't be done properly, from the top, without detaching that wire harness box. If you want a shortcut, you're probably better off attempting to do it from under the car like Dave1027 recommended. Just because you managed to do it, doesn't mean you should recommend it. It's a cowboy method through and through. (I wish there were a cowboy emoji.)
I still can't say anything with regard to going from below, because I have an XI and it isn't possible for me.
(Wait, are you even talking about an E46? You have your car listed as a 525.)