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Great write up. Now just to clarify when you say you drove 2500 miles thus far on this mod without the oil light, what was your driving habits like? Sometimes people will drive how they want the mod to react (like slower, lower rpms, lower speeds than normal) and thus affect the results.

I wonder what the pressure readings would read in terms of vacuum under different loads compared to stock? Like when does this mod make the biggest difference (under partial throttle, full throttle) idling, driving on the highway at a constant speed, or accelerating?

I wonder what would happen to those who say their cars burn no oil if they did this mod?

What if those who burn oil, did this mod, and got improved results went back to stock and did a piston ring job instead--would they get the same or better results? In other words, is this a band-aid for worn piston rings? (If it is and it provides good results across the board, why not? Sounds good to me) Trying to understand the oil mystery on some BMWs.

Some cars burn oil, some burn none.

Edit:
This does look cool--good idea from this guy: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1066308

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome thread man :thumbsup:
Always great to see a detailed DIY, especially in more novel areas. Nicely done, lingon. :thumbup:
Thanks, guys!

Great write up. Now just to clarify when you say you drove 2500 miles thus far on this mod without the oil light, what was your driving habits like? Sometimes people will drive how they want the mod to react (like slower, lower rpms, lower speeds than normal) and thus affect the results.

I wonder what the pressure readings would read in terms of vacuum under different loads compared to stock? Like when does this mod make the biggest difference (under partial throttle, full throttle) idling, driving on the highway at a constant speed, or accelerating?
Honestly, one of the biggest reasons I went with this over the OCC is the simplicity and cost because I was so skeptical of either of these methods working. When the oil level actually stayed up, and the light stayed off, it seemed like magic. I was going all over the place around the time I did this, so if anything, I drove the car harder. I didn't really believe it was going to work, so I didn't modify my driving habits at all. Mostly, it was a shot at helping the consumption problem while I was already in there to clean the throttle body and IAC valve.

02Pilot answered some of the questions you asked in the link toward the top of my write up. Specifically, he gave some vacuum readings, and talked about when he thinks it's working best.
 

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I'm liking this aluminum valve cover idea. Is it workable with a catch can? A metal reinforced VCG coupled with a Viton OFHG from BavAuto would be great countermeasures to the accelerated wear from the extra vacuum generated by a catch can.
 

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I wonder what the pressure readings would read in terms of vacuum under different loads compared to stock? Like when does this mod make the biggest difference (under partial throttle, full throttle) idling, driving on the highway at a constant speed, or accelerating?
I only tested crankcase vacuum at idle. I got 7 inches of mercury with the O2Pilot mod. Before I had about 1/2 an inch. That's quite an increase but not near the 20 inches some get with the Catch can mod.
 

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It looks like the baffling in the M56 cover leaves nothing for a catch can to catch. Any oil that is pulled into the large baffle drops back into the engine and never reaches the second smaller baffle where the vacuum is applied. The M56 cover mod seem costly but probably the most effective mod available in my humble opinion. My oil consumption problem started all at once and stopped after I replaced the entire CCV system. I suspected it had to be something with the CCV and as it is I was right. From the beginning my 01/02 build 330i never used any oil until a vcg change. After the vcg change it was using 1 liter per 800 miles. Changed the CCV and it's back to it's old self. After 2500 miles it hasn't used a drop. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones?
 

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I only tested crankcase vacuum at idle. I got 7 inches of mercury with the O2Pilot mod. Before I had about 1/2 an inch. That's quite an increase but not near the 20 inches some get with the Catch can mod.
Anyone know what the negative pressure should be with a new engine with all factory parts working properly?
 

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Wouldn't the increased crank case pressure wear the cylinder walls more rapidly as the rings are being pushed more so to the cylinder walls than before?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Wouldn't the increased crank case pressure wear the cylinder walls more rapidly as the rings are being pushed more so to the cylinder walls than before?
This makes sense in theory, but I'm not sure if the amount of vacuum we're talking about would have any effect in that sense. Especially on a modern engine with low tension rings.
 

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Is the smaller vacuum port on the back the back of the intake(#1 in the picture you linked to in step 5) used for the exhaust flap? If so could you just use it for this o2 pilot mod if the golf tee mod has been done? So in that case you end up with an unused hose running from where the exhaust flap is to the intake?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks for the question! I'm adding a link to this post to the main post at the top of the thread. (I've edited the main post too many times today. I'll add the link tomorrow.)

Is the smaller vacuum port on the back the back of the intake(#1 in the picture you linked to in step 5) used for the exhaust flap? If so could you just use it for this o2 pilot mod if the golf tee mod has been done? So in that case you end up with an unused hose running from where the exhaust flap is to the intake?
Yes. If you've removed and blocked the hose at the rear of the car, allowing the flap to always stay open, that hose is no longer in use and can be used for the CCV.

I tried this before I did the "02Pilot mod" to see if I would like the sound, and I hated it. It only added an obnoxious drone.

But if you've done the "golf tee mod," you definitely can use that port as it's no longer in use.

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***8226; To be clear, for anyone reading this, we're talking about #1 in this photo: http://imgur.com/GpQiol1

***8226; This is the "golf tee mod":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXksIV71auM
 

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First off, lingon, excellent write-up. I wasn't expecting something so detailed when you said you were making a DIY. Additionally, thanks for your help and links the other day.

A few things worth mentioning in my experience with this so far (waiting for parts to ship):

1. It's not entirely necessary that you remove the throttle body when you go to do this job. While you're down there, of course, as you mentioned, it's wise to go ahead and clean it if it hasn't been cleaned. In my case, I was able to fit my hand by the CCV vacuum port and remove it, and put on the new hose. Kind of a tight fit, but I don't have small hands and it worked out fine. This time around, I ordered a TB gasket (Victor-Reinz from FCP) since I didn't replace that last time I cleaned my ICV and TB.

2. The CRP hose on FCP is great - especially if you're already ordering other parts, go ahead and add it to your order. However, if you're impatient like me, or in a cinch, you can go to your local auto parts store and pick up a 5/32" hose that fits equally as well. I do believe the metric for 5/32" is roughly ~3.9mm. Not too big of a difference in size, but again, I would opt for the 3.5 if it was viable for me.

3. Just thought it would be worth mentioning as well that an excellent alternative for throttle body cleaner is any fuel system cleaner. Particularly, I've used Lucas Fuel System Cleaner on the TB before and it cleaned it really well. Apparently lubricates the bushings on the valve of the TB as well. That being said, carburetor cleaner works well on the ICV too. Not that throttle body cleaner is anymore expensive than those two cleaners, but if you already have those then you can save yourself a few bucks.

I'll post back with any other notes I take from my install, and updates on my oil consumption. Currently, without the mod, I'm burning about a quart of oil every ~500 miles. Mobil 1 0W-40, if anyone's curious.

P.S - From the information I've gathered reading a majority of 02Pilot's original thread, the added crankcase vacuum is almost negligible. Especially in the context of cylinder wear.
 

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Thanks for the question! I'm adding a link to this post to the main post at the top of the thread. (I've edited the main post too many times today. I'll add the link tomorrow.)



Yes. If you've removed and blocked the hose at the rear of the car, allowing the flap to always stay open, that hose is no longer in use and can be used for the CCV.

I tried this before I did the "02Pilot mod" to see if I would like the sound, and I hated it. It only added an obnoxious drone.

But if you've done the "golf tee mod," you definitely can use that port as it's no longer in use.

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To be clear, for anyone reading this, we're talking about #1 in this photo: http://imgur.com/GpQiol1

This is the "golf tee mod":
Huh, I was under the impression that disconnecting that hose (since it leads to a vacuum canister, and then to the exhaust flap?) would create a small vacuum leak. I have the golf tee mod done on my car already, so I guess I didn't have to use the big port after all.
 

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Guys,
Is there a version of the CCV that doesn't have the unused port? I have an 03 330xi and I replaced the CCV a couple of years ago. I have the cold weather version and everything is encased in a rubber foam insulator.
I cannot locate any unused ports on mine.

Thanks
 

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Guys,
Is there a version of the CCV that doesn't have the unused port? I have an 03 330xi and I replaced the CCV a couple of years ago. I have the cold weather version and everything is encased in a rubber foam insulator.
I cannot locate any unused ports on mine.

Thanks

The port is hidden under the insulation.
 
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