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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

First of all, i wanted to say that i have searched this forum for something similar but i failed to find anything so i decided to ask a question hoping that somebody can help me.

I am trying to convert my manual rear windows to electrical power windows.

I have ordered the following parts:

1 x Rear left side motor - 67628362066
1 x Rear right side motor - 67628362065
1 x Electric window lifter rear LEFT - 51358212099
1 x Electric window lifter rear RIGHT - 51358212100
1 x Central Console Trim with rear controls - 51167052062
1 x Window Lifter Switch - Driver Side - 61318381518
1 x Window Lifter Switch - Passenger Side - 61318381514
2 x Rear Lifter Switch - 61316902174

I haven't ordered a GM5 module as i don't know if it's high or low (most probably low) but i figured i'd leave that the last.

Last Sunday i wanted to put all the parts inside so i unmounted the rear left door panel and before doing anything i searched for the cable that would go to the electric motor but i couldn't find it.

I did a little digging on the internet and using my VIN number on realoem.com i got this part number of the rear door cable harness: 6112691308.

Apparently it appears to be just of for both manual and electric power windows but my true question is: Should this be just one cable or are there different harnesses ?
I need to mention that i also have an airbag fitted so i don't know if i should search better for that cable in the car or if i have the correct cable, as on realoem there is no distinction of cables between manual and power windows.


Also, another question would be, if there truly are different harnesses, do i also need to change the cable that goes from the door pillar to to GM5 (or atleast i think it goes to the GM5)?

Has anyone attempted a retrofit like this, or are you aware of any tutorials out there that i could follow?

If i'm successful, i'll also post a retrofit tutorial here to help the future dudes that may have this question as well.

Thank you and looking forward in hearing from you guys.
 

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Most of the rest of the world had no idea that you could even GET an E46 with manual windows!

If it's like the previous models, there is a separate window harness that populates into the
door connector. It'd be separately bundled wires, with loose pins on it.
Body side, you're likely to need the same thing...

... it seems to me, at this point in the model's life, that you'd be far better
off to find a wrecked one at the junkyard. These parts are eye- wateringly expensive
to order new, given that they are usually thrown out with a scrap car.

Good luck!

t
 

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OP does not reside in the US. For E46’s outside the US it is common to have no rear power windows so they can sell for a cheaper price. 4-cyl engines were also offered in other parts of the world.

As far as I know the wiring for rear power windows is not present in your car. You will need to add wires from the window switches to the general module. Add wire from fuse 71 to the general module. Add wires from each door connector to the general module and add wires from the motors to the door. connector. Then editing the VO and then coding the new/used general module to the car per the VO. Your current general module I can almost guarantee is not built to control rear power windows. It might be easier to sell this car and buy another with power windows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi everyone,
Thanks for the replies!
I ordered from some scrap junkyard some rear cables harnesses and i will start installing them car(probably this weekend) because where would the fun in retrofitting be if i would just sell the car and buy a new one with power windows?

I hope to have some time to post either a video or some pictures of the process if anyone would be interested in the future.

Regards
Adrian
 

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Hi everyone,
Thanks for the replies!
I ordered from some scrap junkyard some rear cables harnesses and i will start installing them car(probably this weekend) because where would the fun in retrofitting be if i would just sell the car and buy a new one with power windows?

I hope to have some time to post either a video or some pictures of the process if anyone would be interested in the future.

Regards
Adrian
Hi do you have a video or fotos of the retrofitting? Iwant to do the same thing and i dont know where to start.


Lukas
 

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hi everyone,
i have a BMW E46 SEDAN 2003 and i live in The Netherlands,,,i have opened the rear door pannels and i used a nice diagram and i did this
parts needed. i used a beautifull diagram see the uploaded picture...and also a another picture i found on the internet...
front driver switch with front left window and rear switch and child lock
front passenger switch with front right and rear right switch
two rear switches it doesnt matter left or right are both the same
two window left and right rear mechanisme with motors and connectors, both side color is YELLOW/BLACK AND GREEN/BLUE maybe different color the pins are important..
i took all these parts from scrapyard from a car ( station and sedan) are all the same parts
i runned under the carpet the wires to the GM5 module to the back of the glovebox
you need from the GM5 module the left connector and the right connector the middle one not used
what i recommend is take pliers and cut the three coneector wires from the scrapyard from the GM5 connectors because you need the pins
the pins can easy been taken out by disconnecting them from the harness and then push on the opening hole of each pin,, they have some kind of a cap you pushed in and pull it out.
if u push the pins out you need to do it twise on every pin see the openning on the pin holes. so pull it gently on the pin with thin needle and easly you see they come out you do every pin twise after the first pull.
i used 2,5mm thickness wires for the motors and i used 1mm thickness wires for the switches
i used a 2,5mm thickness cable for the wire between fuse nr71 to the X332 connector pin 10 the fuse must be 30 ampere...
i used tir rib cable ties under the carpet and soldering iron and shrinking tubes and tape secures nice and good.
you need also to open the left and right gummy each one is tightened with a 8mm bolt on the top ,,the gummy cable connector between the doors and the car.
when i opened the gummy there were many free holes i just used solder iron to make big holes between the two gummys and runned the five wires through and then i tighned the screw back of the doors and car.
i removed glovebox disconnected the three connectors on the GM5 module and i soldered every cable on pins and pushed in the connectors.
then i runned the wire 2,5mm between the GM5 module X332 pin 10 to the fuse number 71..
i am well known how to open the hole fuse box i will upload pictures,,,

actully this is what you doing
so you run 2 wires from each switches to the gm5 to X254. THEY GO TO PINS 1-4-16-17,,,and the switches also have a ground wire witch is brown,this wires you can connected to a bolt under the carpet where is group browns.
so you run 4X2,5MM THICKNESS wires from the rear motors to GM5 module to connector X332. THEY GO TO PINS 4-5-11-12
you run 1 wire 2,5MM THICKNESS from connector X332 pin 10 to fuse 71 with 30 ams fuse..I WILL UPLOAD HOW TO OPEN FUSEBOX
WHEN YOU OPEN YOUR FUSEBOX WITH THE LEFT AND RIGHT WHITE TURN CLIPS LIFT IT SO IT WILL GET OUT OF HIS RAILS ,,
AND THE FUSE BOX MUST BE LIFTED AND PULL THRUWORDS U. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO BUY JUST A FUSEBOX FROM A SCRAPYARD OR SOMEONE TO OPEN IT SO U WILL UNDERSTAND HOW IT WORKS...THAT WAY U HAVE PINS CONNECTORS AND COLORED WIRES AND THE FUSES,,FUSE WIRES AND FUSES,,, THEY ARE LOCKED BY 4 LOCKING STICKS TWO BLUE AND 2 WHITE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FUSEBOX,THESE 4 LOCKERS MUST BE TAKEN OUT BEFORE U INSERT SOMETHING OF TAKE OUT SOMETHING.,,,,,AFTER THIS YOU NEED REMOVEL THE FUSES AND THEN UNDERNEATH THE FUSE BOX THE THREE SCREWS BENEATH THE FUSEBOX,,, THESE ARE TORX.AND THEN YOU NEED TO TAKE THE UPPER PART OFF,,,,, AND THEN YOU SEE THAT THE FUSE BOX IS READY TO BE ADDED CABLES,,,BE VERRY GENTLE WITH THESE PARTS,,,,, JUST BELIEVE ME BUY ONE FROM SCRAPYARD,,, OPEN IT,,, AND THEN ,,,YOU UNDERSTAND HOW THIS BOX WORKS,,,,
EVERY WIRE WHAT IS NEW INSERTED IN THE FUSEBOX MUST BE PUSHED TILL IT IS LOCKED,,,, AND DOESNT COME OUT AGAIN ,,,,AND YOU WILL SEE THAT THERE IS FUSE CLIP FOR UP AND DOWN CLIP TO HOLD A FUSE ON BOTH SIDES.,,,BY EXAMPLE FUSEN UMBER 71 IS NOT USED,,,, U SEE ONLY ONE FUSECLIP HOLDER,,,, AFTER YOU INSERT A WIRE FROM NEHIND,,, AND PUSHED TILL U SEE IN THE FRONT,,,, NOW THERE ARE TWO FUSEHOLDERS CLIPS,,,, THAT WAY U INSERTED A OEM WIRE IN THE FUSEBOX...GENTLY VERRY GENTLY THEY ARE ALL AMALL PARTS AND BREAKABLE..SEE MY PICTURES..
you run 5 wires 1mm THICKNESS from front center 3 for driver and 2 for passenger to GM5 X254,THEY GO TO PINS 2-3-14-15-21
SOLDER EVERYTHING SHRINK TUBE AND TAPE IT AND TIGHTEND WITH TIE RIP ZIP TIES.
BY THE WAY YOU ALSO NEED FROM EACH REAR DOORS ONE CABLE 1MM THICKNESS TO RUN IT TO THE GM5 MODULE,,,THESE GOES TO CONNECTOR X254 TO PINS 12 AND 26..THESE WIRES ARE JAM WIRE CHILD HAND PROTECTION SO THAT YOUR HANDS DON'T GET STUCK WHEN U PULL UP A WINDOW,,,THIS IS ALSO ON YOUR FRONT WINDOWS INSTALLED ALREADY TOO.

NOW COMES THE TRICKY PART,,, I WAS BUSY COUPLE OF DAYS WITH EVERYTHING,,,NOW I OPENED THE BMW SCANNER 1.4 TOOL AND CONNECTED THE OBD CONNECTOR..
i opned the bmw scanner tool 1,4 and i went to identifie the car and then i clicked scan i waited it shows three pages ..
on the first page u have the option central body electronic and you can choose errors and delete the errors if u have..
i did this because i also retrofit the car factory allarm i will also update pictures,,
then i went to close and in the menu left u see coding data click there and click recoding and u will get a list..
on the left side you can choose and click REAR POWER WINDOWS..make sure it is now vinked black line in the box..
click now under right side on WRITE and wait till it is written
close the bmw scanner tool and u will now have rear power windows..
ONE PROBLEM your GM5 is not coded and it is GM5LOW you need a GM5 high (sometimes written with stickers sometimes not.. if u have found one go to scott's website www.bmwgm5.com and compare numbers it must say that u have 6 relays that is the right one a GM5 build in 6 relays.if u see that your GM5 number has 4 relay is the wrong one.
because
2 relay front windows,
2 relays rear windows,
2 relay for central locking.
the ones with 4 relay cannot be programor coded so u need GM5 with 6 relay for sure if u wanna know your GM5 and u can open it u see..a car who already has rear power windows must have 6 relays HIGHLY RECOOMEND TO GET THE GM5 FROM THE DONER CAR..or second hand.. AND USE THE GM5 FROM THE DONOR CAR..AND REPROGRAMMED WITH INPA,BMW SCANNER 1,4,OR NCSS EXPRESS,,,
THANK U FOR YOUR TIME..
934388

934389

934390

934391

934392



934394


SQUEEZE THE TWO LOCKING PINS TOP COMES OFF
934396

934397

934398

934399

DOOR GUMMET BETWEEN THE CAR AND DOORS JUST MAKE HOLES TO RUN THE WIRES THROUGH,, AND RECONNECTED TOGETHER AGAIN EASY NICE AND GOOD JOB
I CANNOT UPLOAD MORE THAN 10 PICTURES
CONTACT ME FOR MORE
GOOD LUCK
 

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PART 3
JUST TO BE SURE
IF U WANT MORE INFO CONTACT ME I HAVE ALMOST ALL CONNECTION DIAGRAM OF BMW E46
THIS IS HOW I CONNECTED EVERYTHING TO MY CAR
I USED THE FUSE CABLES
I USED WIRES 1MM 2,5 MM AND 4 MM
I USED SOLDERING IRON AND SHRINK TUGBES CABLE ZIP TIES
I HAVE POSTED ANOTHER POST ABOUT REAR ELECTRIC SUN ROLLO,
HEATED ELECTRIC MEMORY SEATS
ANGEL EYES
INSIDE BUTTON RELEASE TRUNK
FOOTWELL LIGHTS
MAKE UP LIGHT
EXTRA USB CONNECTORS AT THE BACK
GEAR SHIFT M LOOK
ALARM
TRUNK 12 VOLT
AND TRUNK CLOTHES HANGER
CHEARS
 

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youre wellcome u can also go to scrapyard and take the hole door harness out verry easy and better but for me it was a challenge and later i also took the door harnesses out from a scrapyard car just to have them as extra hhh hhh thank u bro good luck...🤓🤓🤓🤓
 
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