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'04 325i, '02 325iT
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If you are just replacing the brakes there is no need to remove that large hub nut. The small hex head screw is the only thing holding the rotor to the hub. Once that is removed you may have to smack the rotor with a mallet a few times, but it will come off. The parking brake shoes may drag on the inside of the rotor as well, so make sure the parking brake handle is all the way down.

That being said, that does look like some pretty serious corrosion on the one side. I would try and remove as much of the flaky rust as possible from the nut to inspect just how bad it is. If the nut is so far gone that it looks like it could break and come loose while driving then you may want to try and replace it with a new one. It's probably going to be a pain to remove given how much rust there is, but you wouldn't have to remove the axle, just install a new nut.

If you decide to replace the nut, before trying to remove it you need to use a flat screwdriver or small chisel to push back the locking flange on the nut where it has been punched into the axle grooves. When you install the new nut you'll have to re-punch the locking flange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know exactly how its supposed to look. I have had them apart plenty of times before. I was just hoping someone here has come across a hub that corroded
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't even clean the rust off. I did the brakes, and I'll leave that for another day. I just replaced the rear springs and shocks a few months ago. I'm surprised I didn't notice it then.
 

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The left side in the rust belt seems to get the brunt of it, as you're exposed to spray and slush
from oncoming traffic. This is far more true if you drive 2- lane roads a lot.

t
odd, but seems to be true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The left side in the rust belt seems to get the brunt of it, as you're exposed to spray and slush
from oncoming traffic. This is far more true if you drive 2- lane roads a lot.

t
odd, but seems to be true.
That actually makes alot of sense. I never would have thought of that.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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I've seen worse but not by a large margin.
I'd leave it alone until you needed to perform any work.

So this demonstrates just how close tolerance the hub centric fit can be on some BMWs. The above holding salt/brine treated snow in the cavity.

I might be tempted to take an acid brush and glob some wheel bearing grease in there to prevent further oxidation.
But if you started to clean it up, chances are you wouldn't stop until there was nothing left.
 

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I had this problem while trying to change the rear axle.
I ended up buying used rear axle and a use rear trailing arm, removed the trailing arm with the old axle still installed and voila.
My only 2 problems were wheel speed sensor and parking brake cable.
Both came out after some force were applied.
 
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