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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, my 330ci started to randomly idle VERY rough, going from 500-1000 and when i try to accelerate, it is bogged and very slow, and is very jumpy as it is trying to move but can't. The car runs great for about 30 minutes and then randomly starts this issue where the car is almost incapable of driving :banghead: I have the catless European headers and a Dinan long tube cold air intake. I first cleaned the filter to the CAI and thought that some oil from the filter got on the MAF sensor causing it to run poorly, but after taking it out and cleaning it TWICE, i concluded that it can not be it. I removed all the boots (looking for any cracks) leading up to the idle air control valve and cleaned it. I put everything back together and it drove beautifully for about 45 minutes, then the rpms went crazy and accelerating was almost impossible. Do you think my MAF sensor is bad? I looked it up and can't find anything that will help. It is so unpredictable that i am afraid to drive on the freeway. One i turn my car off and back on, it seems to temporarily fix the problem for another 30 minutes. If anyone has any idea or suggestions, please let me know. I just want my car back
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's throwing a few codes due to the cat less headers. I'll check tomorrow and see if there's anything new but I normally check every forget day for new codes. The guy I bought the car from luckily gave me the oem exhaust manifold system and I'll swap that on soon. It drives perfectly for about 30 minutes and then completely useless and almost undrivable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think my dad does somewhere. I'll go look in the garage and see if any odd codes pop up.
 

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I only have one of the cheaper ones that shows that codes and that's it. It doesn't tell me any info.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I only have one of the cheaper ones that shows that codes and that's it. It doesn't tell me any info.
 

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I wonder if their are any fanatics that live near you willing to pull some codes for you. Do you have a CEL? I know that sometimes it is not triggered. When you talk about the car feeling under powered does it shake when it accelerates? What about starting the car any issues there?

Also this is just my experience in the past with oil filters...I'm not a fan if they are oiled correctly you should be OK. I prefer the dry type just because mistakes cannot be made. IF possible ditch the oiled one.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Intake/Performance/ES264138/

Not sure if you can just get that filter but if you can that's the one to get.

This is the one that came on my car when I bought it (I also the old stock one too)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes it shakes a ton during acceleration and shakes at idle. It has no problem starting and it fixes itself after I restart the car. Then about 10 minutes later the problem starts again
 

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All you need to start with is a generic OBDII code reader. One that supports Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data is best. Buy yourself an OBDII smart phone App. You do not need PA Soft for this.

Your problem is also that since you have catless headers and the SES/CEL/MIL is on, you have no way to know for sure when a new problem comes up.

Suggest you read this info below, I can almost guarantee you that something here will cover your problem.

Get an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less. These Apps are usually best for drivability issues and they support Emission Readiness Monitor Status, Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data. They are also great for Logging data for review after the car has been driven and can really help find unusual problems.

Android - Touch Scan for $3.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface.

iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.95 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface.

I usually suggest getting the OBDII interfaces from Amazon if you are located in the US/North America. Make sure you choose an interface that indicates that the order will be "Fulfilled by Amazon" otherwise you may be waiting for WEEKS for an interface to arrive from Asia. Ebay is another option, but pay attention where the interface will be shipped from, again weeks for an interface from Asia, so if you can wait and want to try to save some money, go for it, but if you need an interface soon, choose wisely.

Read the 2 links below:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Need to see Freeze Frame info if the SES/CEL/MIL is on and Fuel Trim values at both warm idle and a steady highway cruise between 45-60 MPH.

MAF issues, first cleaning a MAF RARELY resolves anything, the only thing it usually cleans is your wallet.

If you have recently replaced the MAF, put the original back on the engine until you sort out all of the obvious issues. There are MANY counterfeit MAF's on the market and the major trap is ASSUMING the MAF is not the problem since it was recently replaced. Also quite often the MAF is NOT the cause of idle related Lean conditions and misfires, faulty MAF's usually under report the airflow as a percentage and are more of a problem at highway cruise speeds and not engine idle.

Unplugging the MAF will often cause the engine idle to be smoother, reduce or eliminate idle misfires. This DOES not mean the MAF is bad, it is due to the DME going into a fixed fuel Map mode that is typically by default Richer than when the MAF is connected and this will mask Lean conditions caused by intake and/or crankcase air leaks.

P0102 means for some reason there is not likely a signal from the MAF. Verify if the MAF connector is properly plugged in, sometimes the female terminals in the connector are spread and loose on the MAF pins, sometimes there are broken wires inside the wiring harness between the MAF and the wiring box near the throttle body and sometimes the MAF just is bad with no output signal.

WARNING - DO NOT buy a cheap ebay MAF, there are many Asian counterfeits on the market that do not work properly. See of there is an MAF reading in Grams/Sec. Most E46 have an idle MAF reading of between 3.5-4

Note, there may or may not be Lean Codes showing up. Lean Codes usually trigger at around 10% Fuel Trim values or higher. Keep in mind that sometimes these engines can have a Lean condition that does not or only intermittently triggers Lean Codes. This is why monitoring the Fuel Trims in real time is important. Ideal Fuel Trim values are typically in the 0% to +2.5/+3.0% range.

Read this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

Make ABSOLUTELY sure the O2 sensor wiring has not been mixed up, read these links:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16249570&postcount=27

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16378620&postcount=26

Read my "BMW 20 Questions" comments in this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1059972

Check for or be aware of cracked valve covers and bad valve cover gaskets:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1021219

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1053359&page=2&highlight=

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1053359

This information ASSUMES that spark plugs have been checked/replaced. If they have not been inspected, you also need to check for oil filled spark plug wells due to a leaking/cracked valve cover gasket.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16627742&postcount=11

Search YouTube for Scotty Smoke Test. Do what Scotty does or build a tester from related video. Remove the oil fill cap and make sure the crankcase fills up with smoke, put the oil fill cap back on and check for leaks around the valve cover, oil fill cap, dipstick tube and CCV hoses. Cracked valve covers are pretty common on the E46 as it ages.

Note that the Scotty Smoke Test method is not so good for smaller air/vacuum leaks or fully filling the engine crankcase, for this you really need a smoke machine that can provide a solid and continuous low pressure smoke stream. So plan on building a smoke tester of you thing you will use if more than once or may have smaller and harder to find leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I have a Can OBDII. I just took a video of what it does at idle how when i rev it, it doesn't go up in the rpms much, sounds like **** and shakes the car. Then i restart my car and it idles fine and revs normal. I'm stumped. this is the video. The beggining of the video is when the car was running poorly and the second half is after i restarted it and it running fine.

https://youtu.be/EIr8DwnS7pQ

https://youtu.be/_rh_vXhMaqs
Im putting my foot down 3/4ths of the way down in the second video and the car barely moves.
 

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Videos do not give much data.

I need to see Fuel Trim values and DTC's (trouble codes).

Best is a Log of all available sensors on the car.

Likely you are dealing with Misfire with Fuel Cut Off? This is why when the engine is shut off and restarted the engine seems to run better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you so much for all the suggestions. Anything is appreciated. Im going on a trip for two weeks but when i get back im going to try to get a better code reader from O'reilleys. The codes it's throwing are P1345, P1347, P1343, P1193,
P1134, P0300, P1350. Most of them say misfire detected in cylinders 1-5. Im assuming this is from the catless headers. The code 1193 is a fuel trim code. Could this be causing it?
 

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Do not buy anything from O'reilly,s. Buy an OBDII wireless adapter fro. Amazon NOW, it will be waiting for you when you return.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you have any that you recommend? I see quite a few online.
 

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Re-read post #10.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just pulled the plugs. Not fouled but not clean after 10k miles. Just did a compression test. All of the cylinders but cylinder 4 are at 180 psi. Cylinder 4 is at 140 psi. Not good at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did a leak down test, and it's the rings.
 

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I think you chasing the WRONG problem. Keep in mind these cars have low tension piston rings and leak down testing can be misleading.

Also piston ring problems are not usually intermittent.

But you seem to not want to listen and provide the proper feedback. :facepalm:
 
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