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Other than continuity or resistance, not sure what I would be able to do with everything in pieces.. I'm not putting the VB back together til I have O-rings and gasket, which seems to be what you're suggesting? I have a fuel filter I can put on while the car is floating in the air, but otherwise I have little time for extended diagnostics requiring assembly/disassembly
 

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Discussion Starter #82
What I would do is connect the harness to the TCM plug but outside the transmission. Allow it do drop down below the pan and sit on some support plate, maybe something on your transmission jack. Connect all the solenoids and sensors by themselves and have them resting on the support plate so that there isn't any stress on the harness. Now you can connect INPA (or whatever you are using) to send test signals to the solenoids and pressure test them at the same time. Also bring up the output values from the transmission and then start to poke and prod all plugs etc to see if you can find a weak point that has you lose an input or gives you an error code.

When I tested my solenoids this way I created a jumper lead from the particular plug, so it gave me more room to take the solenoid in question to a bench to pressure test it.
 

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Great idea. I need to download your brain! I have almost everything I need to do that save a couple blade connections for the jumper wire. Since I am slow and rather clumsy with small connectors I may hook up a trickle charge to the battery so it doesn't get too low on voltage sitting 'on' like that for a while.
 

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ok INPA doesnt want to do anything with the solenoids, says 'can't do that' or something to that effect when i ask it to activate or test the solenoids
Does immediately give error 34 sump oil temp sensor error after the codes are cleared, not sure if that is related

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #85
When you look at the analogue values page, is it giving you values for input/output speed and temperature. If you are getting the sump oil temp error, I suspect the temperature wire in the harness is a bit dodgy. Clear the codes, give it a wiggle and see if the error comes back.
 

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INPA would not test anything with just the harness so I spent the better part of the weekend reassembling the VB and most of an hour trying to chase down a short in the wiring harness that turned out to be in the test lead.. haha

Once back together I was able to activate all the solenoids with the engine running, with EDS1,EDS4 being clearly audible when test actuated.

Today will be the 3rd day driving normally, no hiccups so far.

While in the air I replaced the fuel filter and negative battery terminal which would not stay tight.

I was unable to change the upper O-ring on the little tube that sticks in the transmission as it fought furiously being removed and I didn't want to break it and wait another week for stupid part, but all the O-rings on the solenoids and a couple on the valves were changed out for new. The old ones looked fine, if a little dirty. I was hoping to find something actually wrong with it...

add 9/30: 2 wk update, running fine and shifting smoothly

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Thanks You & Question

I have watched all your utube videos several times which assisted greatly in rebuilding my transmission. I just read your post on the valve body work. I am tackling that now. I do have a question. I lost reverse and it jumps a little going into drive. I thought the d/g drum had broken. I just completed a rebuild kit and new d/g drum. The drum was not broken. Everything in the transmission looked good. I had just driven through a water pooled road when mine went out. I am doing the valve body now but don't see a problem their either. Do you have any suggestions for checking before I re-install the transmission. Again lost reverse immediately after driving through a large area of water and it started clanking a little when I put it in drive. I'm guessing maybe something electrical??
 

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Any time the trans goes into safe mode it locks out reverse, does not indicate a hard problem with reverse drum. All my trans probs disappeared after rebuilding the valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
To clarify, my understanding of limp mode is that you can select reverse and it will work OK (On my wife's Audi which has a 5hp19 this was the case). It will clunk pretty hard when going into gear due to the solenoids not being activated, but it should work.

Have you opened the selector switch on the side of the transmission and checked all is well. Very simple to drill out the rivets and give it a clean and ensure that all the contacts are in good order. There might have been some water ingestion when you drove through the water. It might be a case where the gear lever is saying one thing, but the selector switch is saying another and the transmission doesn't know what to think.
 

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Thanks for the information. I did open up the valve body today and everything looks good. It has the updated accumulation plugs, which I replaced with new ones from my rebuild kit. I plan to clean the valves and put together back tomorrow. I will then check the selector switch. I think I may have jumped the gun because of all the broken d/g drum info on the internet. My car is a 2002 330i, I dont remember seeing a switch on the side of the transmission, but I will check tomorrow. Again, thank you so much for your videos and write ups. I have used them extensively.
 

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I did find some moisture in the selector switch, thanks for that suggestion. I am putting my transmission back together now and cant find torque specs. I did find them for valve body and some others. I can not find the specs for the oil pump bolts, output coupler bolts, bolts from transmission to bell housing. Can you advise me on any or all of those torque specs? Thank you, Danny Matthews
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Danny, I've uploaded again the repair manual, which is in the first post of the parent thread. For some reason it wasn't working, but it should now. All the torque specs you need are there.
 

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Jeff, Thank you so much. I have watched your videos and read your fanatics entries. They were so helpful in my rebuild. I have learned a lot from you and thank you for the knowledge.
 

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Sorry to dig up an old thread but it's a great post and provides such an insight into these boxes/valve bodies. I have a question for the OP as you seem to know your way round the 5hp19. I have a "clunk" noise/feel from box after a rebuild. The clunk is only on downshift from 5th to 4th. Used bmw oil and replaced pan filter and gasket and have had the software reflashed but to no avail. I'm being told a solenoid or piston could be to blame? are these located in the valve body?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I've updated the original post at the start of this thread with some information regarding the reason for D clutch failures (reverse drum). As this is the primary failure mode of these transmissions, it's critical information, and I wish I'd known this in the past when working on different valve bodies. Thanks to rustypidgeon for passing it on, and again thanks to Erikssons where the information originated. It's must know information for those who plan to rebuild a valve body or are fixing a D clutch failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I've posted some additional information about D drum failures at the start of this thread for those who are interested.
 

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I am just wondering if you could replace the solenoids (except the pressure control solenoid) without removing the valve body out from the transmission.
 

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You probably could to be honest but for the sake of a few screws would make life a lot easier to Remove the valve body. There's plenty of diagrams out there explaining what you need to remove to separate it.
 
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