E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Project: Brittany

5.5K views 145 replies 8 participants last post by  yjsaabman  
#1 ·
Oops! I did it again! Yes, I found another neglected E46 and felt the need to save it. Hence the name, Brittany. She is a 2004 325i sedan. Orient Blue of beige/sand leather. Rwd, 5 MT, sport package, bixenons, HK sound, heated seats, a really nicely spec'd car. 153k on the odometer. I've actually known her for a few years and did some work on her back in 2023 getting her back on the road for the previous owner. Installed a used set of exhaust manifolds as the originals were clogged. Also installed fresh Brembo ceramic brakes all around, new complete front control arms, etc. Looks like they got about 2000 miles in before the replacement cats got clogged. Clear coat is mostly gone from the roof, hood is mismatched and in poor shape, and the interior is filthy and the leather beat. But she has good bones and no rot, so here we are!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Funny you should mention the wheels, the first second part ordered is a wheel! The RR is cracked and doesn't hold air for even 24 hours. Was searching online and found a "scratch and dent" style 119 wheel at ECS Tuning for around $120! It is on it's way to me and Brittany. It's shame they are NLA from BMW.

Actually, I take that back...the first part(s) ordered were a set of Ebay "shorty" headers for her. I hadn't seen these before, they were a bit cheaper, and they eliminate the difference between the M52 cars and the M54 cars because they use extension pipes and look like you cut the flanges off the exhaust. Thought it may be a fun experiment. Planning to pair them with the Racing Dynamics equipped exhaust that came on Gertrude. Interestingly, no vibration isolator on the stock exhaust on Brittany. Going to have to revisit @Bryson's thread about what Hz he determined for the RPM he was experiencing drone and try to find one in that value to try.
 
#5 ·
Some pics of the state of the interior. Soft touch on the console and inserts is destroyed. I wish I knew what people did to break the hazard switch all the time. 3 tourings over a decade, driven probably 150k miles, and I've never broken one.

Image


The filth on the driver's door panel. I'll check my stash, I may just swap this out.

Image


And the driver's seat condition. I have my eye on Ebay for a used base cover with heat.

Image
 
#7 ·
Just ordered 2 used tires. The rears are Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3, the front AS 3+. The one on the cracked wheel has significant cracking, including on the sidewall from sitting on a flat tire. Found some used Pilot Sport All Season 4 on Ebay with 8/32 tread, no repairs, and free shipping for less than one new one! They're coming from different sellers, but I don't care. I hope she's starting to feel the love! A junkyard list has been started, as well. First junkyard stop is my basement!

Also casually looking for an Orient Blue LCI sedan/wagon hood within reasonable driving distance. This hood isn't even worth painting. The structure is delaminating, it's dinged to hell, and shows some impact cracking around the grille openings. my local yard looks to have a good grey hood. I may just snag that for $50 and paint it.
 
#8 ·
Well, things keep spiraling deeper. Was going to polish the headlights and noticed the R one looked really yellow. ZKW lights with a badly burned bowl on the R side. I gave them a quick machine sanding to see how they would look, and it's not worth wasting the clear coat wipe. So I've been shopping repairs. Looks like Retrofit Sour kit is the best way to go. Add on some new Amazon lenses and new OE gaskets and I'm looking at around $320 to fix the lights. Not awful, really, but it's starting to add up, here. I may pivot on the seats in an attempt to make everything else on the car as nice as I can to detract from the peeling clear coat.
 
#19 ·
#12 ·
I've had good success, too. Where they are now a quick spray of water shows what they will look like. The clear just protects them from looking crappy again quickly. The right one is just cooked, like the bowl. It's discolored on the inside and beyond. The lenses aren't a big deal, really. And if I'm opening them up to replace the projectors I might as well replace the lenses.
 
#22 ·
Well, I've committed to doing something other than these seats. Yesterday I pulled the passenger seat and began the dissection. I had read about the heating mats being sewn into the cover, but couldn't find any in-process examples, so I dove in. Seeing it, I'm not sure there is an easy way to make this work. I'll share the reasons with the pics.

Image


Here you can see the heating mat between the leather and the batting and retaining rod channels.

Image


With a fresh and very sharp razor blade I began carefully separating the backseat cover center section from the outer bolsters.

Image


That got me to this point of just having the center section of the cover.

Image


Then more careful work with razor blade to separate the heating pad and batting from the leather. The rods that the hog rings attach the cover to the foam with go across the heating mat in 2 or 3 different places, as well as along the vertical edges.

Image


And finally the heating mat and batting completely removed from the cover. The heating mat does go pretty much the whole way up the backrest. I was hoping I could simply spray glue the heating mat to the foam and reinstall the cover, but it wouldn't be that simple. You would have to install hog rings through the heating mat, and I'm worried about damaging the grid doing that.
 
#25 ·
Ooo...shiny!

Image
Image


Image


Overall the headers themselves fit pretty well. The bank 2 oxygen sensor is pretty tight to the trans, but it does fit and should be OK. The extension pipes are another thing. The bank 1 pipe hits the trans something fierce. I was out of time so I didn't take any pics, but I'll do my best to document the process of fixing it. Got to this point in about 2 hours because it was apart and reassembled with new hardware only about 4k miles ago. And because lift.
 
#28 ·
Still fighting the header install. Had a moment this morning wondering if I installed them swapped. This setup came with zero instructions, and I installed them per the orientation that matched the pics in the listing, and what made sense vs the OE manifolds. I've had nothing but headaches getting bank 1 mated the rest of the exhaust. The connecting pipe doesn't clear the trans, and now I've figured out the one bolt for it is right up against the trans when trying to get it started, as well. I didn't take any pics last night, but I'll take some next time I work on the car.

As for deleting the SAP and downstream O2 sensors, the physical aspect isn't difficult. You just need a block-off plate for the SAP/combi valve. The tricky part comes with keeping the CEL out/functioning with the MS45.1 software from my research when I put headers on my b30 swapped Touring. Since I live in a state with emissions testing, I will be leaving both in place. I've had good luck with spacers in the downstream sensors keeping the CEL out for over 20k miles on my Touring.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I see you got the Orient Blue as well!

You planning on repainting it?

I'm jealous. Have the sports package and heated seats but the seats are manual and not electric on my OB 325i. Good condition though so that's a plus for the seats I have for sure.

Seat maintenance seems pretty challenging. M539 Restorations on YouTube did a couple of seat restorations if you haven't seen them they are pretty good.