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So, for the selector shaft disaster, I'm planning to order a new selector shaft ($29) from Eriksson Industries, the metal dowel that secures the shaft, and a new seal. I also plan to get a new pan gasket along with 2 jugs of trans fluid and a cheap fluid pump to put it in. I should also replace the filter with gasket while I'm in there. Of course, the more I touch, the more I risk screwing up.

I'm now working on plans to put the car up on 4 jack stands so I can work comfortably and safely. My stands are 3 ton and 17 inches high.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
That all sounds good. Don't be afraid of it. It's not as complex as you think. Just a lego set that goes fast.
 

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That all sounds good. Don't be afraid of it. It's not as complex as you think. Just a lego set that goes fast.
OK, I have everything drained and opened up and I was able to drive out the metal dowel that secures the selector shaft.

The selector shaft is loose enough to pull out, but as it moves out of the case it hits the nearby frame member, and that is with the "shortened" shaft that I broke the tip off. There is no way the full length replacement shaft can go back in that way.

Am I missing something obvious. The shaft has to pull out of the case, it cannot go back in as it hits the support boss inside. Is more space created if I pop the seal out? I feel stuck. I really don't want to drop the transmission to create the space.

I did see a Youtube video on removing the rear transmission support and noticed that it caused the rear of the trans to drop. I'll try that once I recover from today's fun and see if it gives me enough drop for the shaft to clear the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I didn't consider the side frame getting in the way. I'm assuming you will need to drop the rear of the transmission like you describe to get room as you need to be able to slide the new shaft in with the new seal in place.

My advice is to re-install the pan with just a few screws so you can support the edge when you remove the rear transmission support. Then remove the old shaft, push the new one in, re-install the rear transmission support and then remove the pan to fit the new shaft correctly. Either this or support under the guibo or the transmission bell housing to remove the rear transmission mount.

Another thought I had was to get some long 6mm screws and mount a block of wood to the rear of the transmission casing clear or the valve body so you can support it here to lower. See basic picture below.

 

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A minor update:

To review:

I'm trying to get the selector shaft out so i can replace it.
It is hitting the side of a frame member.
I supported the trans and removed the rear transmission support
The transmission rear dropped about an inch or so.
I need the trans to drop about another inch to get the shaft out.

Any ideas? Not thrilled with the idea of removing much more (exhaust, drivesaft, etc) at the rear end, because its all likely to be nasty to unbolt with corrosion. Any idea if loosening the front motor mounts might allow the rear to drop more?

All ideas appreciated. I'm considering drilling a 1/4 inch hole in the frame member to allow the rod to clear!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Personally I would avoid cutting into the car frame at any cost. I don't think loosening the engine mounts will make any difference. You might just have to remove the exhaust and driveshaft.
 

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I had to replace the Center Support Bearing, which involved removing the exhaust and driveshaft. It wasn't technically difficult following a DIY. The 4 bolts at the front of the exhaust can be a problem and I highly advise new nuts. Presoak with WD40 or similar a day in advance and use a 1/2" impact, if at all possible. Everything is easy access and straightforward.
Now, your in NYC, so the rusty exhaust nuts, would be my starting point. The rest is easy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks guys. I am studying up on how to disconnect the trans to driveshaft connection and will start soaking the exhaust nuts (my bad handling of rusty nuts is what got me into this trouble) ....

So, drop exhaust, disconnect driveshaft at the Flex Plate and the rear of the trans should drop down some more (with a trolley jack for support of course)?

** Just took a good look at the exhaust studs/nuts. Corroded to nothing. Joints are compromised. Will have to cut em off, drill em out and replace with bolts/nuts. **
 

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I don't know squat about the tranny, that's jjrichar's specialty. But if you're going this route, I would definitely change your tranny mounts while you've got everything out of the way.
The Guibo and Center Support Bearing would be nice to do as well, but it's not imperative and since you are taking everything apart, it will be easy when you do decide to do it.
I was very intimidated by the exhaust before I did it. No biggie. Wear goggles, all kinds of crud will be dropping down as your banging around. I had some dirt get in my eye and had to go to the Medifast office to have it removed.
Get new gaskets (cheap) for your reassembly, yours will be rusted out.

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Thanks Deadfish. Once I know that I can make the selector shaft replacement, by dropping the trans down another inch for access, I'll take a better look at the items you suggested.

If the car can be made usable, I'll be in a better position to see if its all worth it....Of course all these parts will be very accessible when its all apart..
 

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lhendrick
I suppose some karma left you and came my way, since we haven't seen the Cog Wheel of Death on the instrument cluster in a month now.
I never installed the new switch, and may consider selling it off since it can't be refunded.
Mine is shifting better than when I acquired it now.
I wish you luck getting your's back proper.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I always coat the front exhaust nuts and screw with copper anti seize paste. They will come off like butter for the life of the car afterwards. I also smear the gaskets with the paste and I can re-use them as they come off easily. I've had a lot of driveshaft vibration issues over the years and I've taken the exhaust and driveshaft off dozens of times. Using the anti-seize paste has always made the task very simple next time.

Agree with deadfish on replacing the transmission mounts while you are in there. To disconnect the guibo you will have to remove the driveshaft completely. You will damage the center mount of the guibo/driveshaft if you rotate the transmission down a long way if you don't do this.
 

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lhendrick
I suppose some karma left you and came my way, since we haven't seen the Cog Wheel of Death on the instrument cluster in a month now.
I never installed the new switch, and may consider selling it off since it can't be refunded.
Mine is shifting better than when I acquired it now.
I wish you luck getting your's back proper.
Thanks.
 

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Yeah that works, but you need really good bits and it takes awhile.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I always coat the front exhaust nuts and screw with copper anti seize paste. They will come off like butter for the life of the car afterwards. I also smear the gaskets with the paste and I can re-use them as they come off easily. I've had a lot of driveshaft vibration issues over the years and I've taken the exhaust and driveshaft off dozens of times. Using the anti-seize paste has always made the task very simple next time.

Agree with deadfish on replacing the transmission mounts while you are in there. To disconnect the guibo you will have to remove the driveshaft completely. You will damage the center mount of the guibo/driveshaft if you rotate the transmission down a long way if you don't do this.
OK. On my next trip under the car I'll pull the exhaust, drop the driveshaft, lower the rear of the trans, remove and replace the f'ing selector shaft, put it all back together replacing the worn out rubber stuff and new nuts and bolts on the rusted out hardware. Then, after lunch......:)
 
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