Are you using your left foot on the brake? You can't (and shouldn't) press the brake and the gas at the same time; brakes on / no gas... makes sense doesn't it?
Left foot = clutch, right foot = gas and brakes.

 

Left foot braking and mainly used for racing.

 

There are plenty of situations where left foot braking applies even on the street, it's just not something you should do if you don't need to.

As for the gas pedal being "disabled". There is absolutely no response from pressing the gas pedal or it just doesn't rev up?

 

Hello Jeffwrench, Thank you for your time in responding.
No... I am not trying any fancy racing moves, too old for that! All of this happens while car is parked at home.
Let me describe the actions this way.
left foot on clutch, gear neutral, start car, car starts, engines reaches idle.
right foot on the gas pedal, engines revs responds to the gas pedal being pressed.
right foot moves to brake pedal, tap it once.
right foot goes back to gas pedal, engine no longer revs when gas pedal is pressed.

 

There was another post about something like this. Sooo weird.

 

Hello, here is an update: I believe to be a solution.
After re-reading all of the responses, I went back to make sure there was no SES light on or other clues.
I used an Advance Auto ODBII scanner with the key on, engine off and got no active codes, pass. HOWEVER, I tried reading the codes with engine running and got a single fault code, P0101 MAF fault circuit range /perf. code "pending".
This raises more questions...
Is keeping the engine from being revving up the "limp" mode behavior for my 330?
For anyone who experienced an MAF sensor going bad, does it happen quickly? One day it works and the next it does not?

Before I plug a $400+ part in, is there any checks I can do to the car/harness. Dont want to plug in and burn a new sensor.
Is there anything I could have done to damage the old MAF sensor? unplugging it with battery connected?
I will try and clean the old sensor and test it. I saw lots of posts on MAF testing...
Any further suggestions?
Thanks for everyones help.

 

Cant think how the MAF could be damaged by unplugging it, might be worth 'tightening' the electrical contacts in the MAF plug. This thread discusses the pigtail connectors used on the MAF plug etc, OP claims that 'adjusting' the pins inside them can do wonders:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781

 

Check the Maf's electrical hook up,,have read many places that the wires inside that part where it hooks to the maf were not getting contact

 

I posted a few months ago about a very similar issue. I was away for just over a year. When I returned, the battery was dead (of course) but interestingly my gas pedal was intermittent after the new battery was installed. I could press it to the floor sometimes and get zero response. This occurred only from a dead stop, never when actually driving. I'd pump it a few times and off we'd go. After about a week of this it just started working fine again. In fact, I believe it's better than ever. I used to notice a slight delay at stop signs, etc. I simply chalked it up to drive by wire. Now it seems more sensitive to slight inputs. No idea why it began or why it stopped. One thing I do know however, is that if I put my left foot on the brake I'll get no response from the gas pedal.

Edit: I was seriously looking into buying a Shark Injector. For your manual I believe the consensus is Sprint Booster.

 

oh thought you had a manual, perhaps that is the design intent for an automatic?

 

LEFT FOOT BRAKING
For the average Joe and Jane, the left foot has one job, and one job only. It operates the clutch. If you have no clutch, leave your left foot at home. Plant it on the floor and never move it. Anything that might happen in a specialized environment is apples & oranges when it comes to the average driver on the street. Using the left foot to operate the brake pedal is generally poor form.

P0101, Pending
A pending code means that an event happened once, and the computer is waiting for it to happen again, or not happen again. If the event repeats, then the Check Engine light will be turned on and the code will change from pending to active. If there are colors on your scanner, the color will change from yellow to red. If the event does not repeat within a certain number of drive cycles then the code should drop, although there is no reason not to store it for historical purposes. A pending code could be from yesterday, or last year. If it does not become an active code then it is an anomaly -- that is, whatever conditions prompted it have not repeated. There is no reason to buy a $400 part to cure a pending code.

Fly By Wire
There is no reason for the brake circuit to disable the throttle circuit. Indeed, it is a hazardous condition that the gas can go away after the application of brakes. Makes me wonder if anybody has been crawling around under the dash board looking for wires to splice in aftermarket stuff -- radio or security, for example.

 

I had that problem once and thought it was a security override then I changed my control arm bushing and e-brake shoe and it started to work on its own along with cruise control

 

Hello Eniaro, Do you have more information about changing the e-brake that has fixed the issue with no gas pedal on this thread?

 

Wow... maybe I'm going crazy. I just went out and tried braking and gassing at the same time and I have no problem with it. I was quite surprised. My other vehicle is an old Jeep CJ with a 5 speed so sometimes, after driving it and I jump into the BMW, I got the ol' left foot on the brake thing. I am positive that sometimes ( I would have thought always until today) the gas will not function when the brake is even lightly pressed. It reminds me to put my left foot on the floor. Any chance this is DSC related?

 

DSC _might_ be the link between the brake pedal making the gas pedal go cold. If this is true, then turning the DSC off should solve the problem temporarily. It's a valid test, that's for sure.

The problem with left foot braking in a stick shift, beyond resting the foot on the brake pedal enough that the brakes drag, is that if one is actively braking and the need to change gears arises, then the feet have to dance. If there is a rapidly approaching tree, then the foot dance can be the difference in hitting or missing the tree.

 

My Toyota truck has a recall (that I never had installed) to update the software to make the brake override the throttle. This was done because of too many incidents of the throttle by wire basically going hay wire and causing unintended acceleration.

 

2nd update: Brake pedal disables gas pedal.
Disconnected battery. 20 min. Reconnected.
Started car, accelerator works. Manually Shut off DSC ( light on), accelerator works, touched brake pedal, accelerator disabled.
Re-started the car. accelerator works.
I am still getting the MAF P0102 fault. After second or third start the SES light came on, and MAF code is active.

Followed instructions from various posts on testing MAF.
The cable to the MAF checked well, not shorted to ground, 14 vdc with car on, yellow wire back to computer has 4.7K ohms to ground. Wires not shorted to each other or to ground. Confident MAF cable is good. Also checked pins and connections.
With MAF connected and car tunning, I put sewing needles through the wires just before the connector and measured 14 vdc on the red, and 0.07 vdc on the yellow.
Per some other posts, this is very low, and this voltage does not change when engine is revved up.
With this, I will declare the MAF bad.
I have ordered a new OEM Siemmens. Should be here next week.
I have searched the bentley manual and there seems to be many reading comparisons from MAF to throttle control. The only place on the manual that talks about loss of throttle control due to a fault has to do with DSC. At this moment I do not believe the DSC is the cause.
Looking back at the events that led to this situations, If I had lost the MAF reading during the last time the car ran, and by resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery, could that have lost and throttle to MAF data?
Does anyone else experienced an MAF fault cause this loss of throttle control?
I may not be getting all the codes with my advance auto ODBII scanner.
Can anyone recommend a pc based tool that is capable of reading codes in more details, and have more powerfull diagnostic tools etc...
Thanks in advance for your time and information.

 

The problem was fixed with the new MAF.

With Battery disconnected, installed new MAF, re connected the battery, Car stuttered upon start for a few seconds, then got smooth idle. Revved the engine, good response, touched, and released the brake, and gas pedal no longer disabled.

A few lessons learned on this issue for me...

1) On a manual transmission 330CI, keeping the engine at idle when an MAF fails, is a little harsh of a design. One is able to move the car to a safe location away from blocking traffic, if the road is flat and with very careful slow release of the clutch. HOWEVER, This does not work if car is on a hill. There is simply not enough power at idle speed to get the car to a safe location.
2) Learned that my generic scanner does not pickup all of the BMW codes. Ordered a Creator C110 ODB2 Fault Code Scanner. I will leave it in the car.

3) I will buy a second MAF ( not as expensive as OEM ) and keep it in the car. It will get the car running if it fails again. Especially since it failed without much reason or warning.

Thanks for everyone's help. Thanks for E46Fanatics Forum.

Now, researching a xenon headlight that is not working. Thanks.

 

All of this suddenly makes sense (sort of). I replaced my MAF sensor 2 weeks ago and never associated that with the brake no longer disabling the gas as it used to. Why this occurs with a bad MAF I have no idea. I was amazed last week when I went out to test it and my brake did NOT disable the gas. Interesting...

 

Well I want to add my experience because it seems to indicate that other things can cause the brake pedal to disable the gas pedal. I***8217;d been experiencing this problem for a really long time. I***8217;ve had a couple DSC wheel speed sensors become flaky. I replaced one and still had the issue. I saw my speedometer go out a couple times and in another thread I saw that was likely the other rear speed sensor. So I bought that one but hadn***8217;t put it in when I needed to get my SES light shut off so I could pass inspection. Codes showed a Mass Airflow problem and a Camshaft outlet sensor code. Based on the consensus it was the mass airflow sensor, I bought a new main sensor and a secondary. No change. Just finished changing the camshaft outlet sensor and resetting my SES and the problem is fixed. I***8217;m so relieved. Was really getting worried. Hope that helps someone!!

 

There is a DTC 78 plausibility accelerator and brake pedals that appears when you press the accelerator and brake pedal at the same time so clearly the DME program sees this as a problem as well it should. It is not logical to do both nor is it good for the car. So the computer is going to defend the car from that kind of abuse.

 

Disconnecting the MAF is known to cause the brake pedal to disable the gas pedal. So the MAF is where I'd look



Ever hear of heel-toe downshifts? That error code shouldn't trigger unless it's detecting both inputs for an extended period of time.

 

Guys, it was solved with the MAF. No need to convince us old farts we drive wrong, and no need for us old farts to tell anybody else how to drive.

 

But... but.... then we wouldn't be FANATICS!!!!!

t
fan-at-ick

 

Hello.
I have a 2002 330CI convertible. M54 engine series. Manual.
This car does not have a cable for the throttle. Drive by wire.
Symptoms:
Start car, no SEL lights or diagnostics.
With car in neutral or in gear, clutch pressed or not, I can rev the engine, good response. idle is also good.
The moment I press the brake pedal, the accelerator no longer revs the engine.

Short background. Car ran well before this. I replaced the air filter. Changed the oil. I did disconnect the MAF while replacing the air filter. But was very sure to reconnect it. However I did not disconnect the battery.
When this happened the first time I did get the DSC light to come on. Was backing up on a slight incline.
To make this go away I restart the car, the gas pedal revs the engine well.
the moment I hit the brake pedal it disable the gas pedal.
I need some help. Thank You Lucas330CI

Also wanted to add that once the brake pedal is pressed the engines stays in perfect idle. around 750 rpm ( approx)
I have tried disconnected the battery for several minutes and reconnected.

 

change maf