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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off I want to say Hi to everyone I have been watching this site for a few years and I really had nothing to contribute because up until recently I had no problems with my whip...

This has changed lol! Long story short I was on my way home from a gig at 4am on a long stretch of unlit turnpike going 110mph when out of nowhere popped up a semi-tire laying smack in the middle of the road:censor: I had about .75 secs to make a decision that probably was life and death. Try to swerve and avoid which meant cutting the wheel hard enough to completely miss the tire because catching the corner would most likely flip me.... or break hard while downshifting into 4th, and then pegging it just before impact to raise my front end enough to get over it and hope for minimal damage... I chose the latter and by some miracle I got my front end which has about 5" clearance up enough to minimize the impact of the tire which was probably 9" to clear. :excited: My buddy was like holy shite! don't you want to stop and see if you did any damage??? I was like hell no, I am not stopping till we get to civilization... as we got off the turnpike I noticed the first sign of a problem, NO POWER STEERING!!! Other than some minor cosmetic damage to my mtec thankfully this was the only problem I experienced.

So moving on to what I learned that may hopefully be of some use to some of you. I have an 11/2000 build car with the LUK 20 power steering pump. After doing a bunch of research on here I discovered that a TSB was issued informing TS to retrofit the LUK 20 with the LUK 30 pump and to do this the high pressure hose also needed to be retrofit. Well the first thing I did was research online and found that finding a LUK 20 OEM or aftermarket was very tough and expensive, not to mention most that were in the $400 range or less were on backorder.

So I decided to do some looking into the retrofit and found that you could find the cardone pump 215049 for $90 after core return but, the retrofit hose was $265 OEM(part # 32416764725)!!! I was blown away by this because my family is in the trailer manufacturing business and the pressure and return hoses with fitting and quick disconnect fittings that handled 10,000 psi all day cost about $50 for everything... So I started doing some research and it took some searching but I found the codan aftermarket # which is around $75 dollars plus tax and shipping(part #190342287865).

Now for those of you that have a relatively new HP Hose or those of you that don't have the money to drop on a new hose I will share what I did.

First off let me say that I am just sharing my findings with you and anything you do to your car is strictly at your own risk... I have had zero leaks for 5 1/2 months now.

That being said for the record both hoses are exactly the same pressure rating and they both have the same reducer fitting in the middle, they are the same hose from the banjo fitting till right before the bend going into the pump... this is where you will be basically paying that $75 to $265 difference.

The high pressure hose is different from the others in every way from the radial build to the higher temp harder interior material that will last MUCH longer then other standard rubber hose.

The tools you will need for this project are:
17mm and 11/16 Flare wrench
3/4 open end wrench
13mm, 17mm, 19mm socket
3" ext
8mm Allen Wrench with breaker bar
long skinny flathead screwdriver
40Torx or 45Torx depending on your model
hose clamps
hose bender 3/8"
file or dremel
small pipe cutter
Can of Brake Parts Cleaner
Dex 3 Merc PS Fluid

Parts Needed:
New PS Resevoir
#215-049 Cardone PS Pump with Lifetime Warranty or LUK 30

From your local Hydraulic Supply Co. (You can order this stuff online of course but I highly recommend you go into your local hyd co so you can discuss the fittings with a pro. It will give you a better understanding of how it works. If you can't go to a store or don't have one then order online*I highly recommend Aeroquip or Eaton* and PM me for any questions.
3/8" Flareless Ferrule ($2.80)
3/8" Flareless Nut ($2.85)
High Performance Saginaw Met ($10)

ALL OF THESE FITTINGS ARE RATED FOR 7,000 PSI!!!

With my car on ramps I first loosened the 3 pulley screws with my 13mm socket.

Then I used an flathead screw driver to pop the dust cap on the belt tensioner exposing the 8mm allen bolt. Reach up and push the short end of the allen wrench into bolt with the long end pointing towards the ground and slightly towards the drivers side wheel. Slide a hollow end of the jack handle over the allen gently so as not to pull it out and push with some force towards the passenger wheel to release the tension on the belt and slip it off the PS pulley. once you do that i suggest you tuck the belt up with a towel to keep it clean.

Now you can unscrew the pulley bolts with your fingers and remove the pulley.

Next place an oil catchpan under the pump and using a 17mm flare wrench loosen the nut to the high pressure hose until the fluid is draining steadily.

Then disconnect the low pressure hose*don't forget to slide the new hose clamp on*.

While they finish draining you can remove the 3 screws holding the old pump with your t40 bit and the 4th screw holding the bracket.

Note if your PS steering res was full like mine and made no noise, chances are the shaft of your old pump will slide out revealing the shearing point at the base...:censor:

Now using your catchpan and a 17mm socket remove the banjo bolt from the rack. MAKE SURE YOU RETRIEVE BOTH CRUSH WASHERS WHEN YOU PULL THE HOSE AND BANJO BOLT. One is on top of the hose and one is on the bottom.

Now if you look at both pumps you will see the difference in mounting points thus the need for the dealer to charge you $265 for a different hose.

Take your Brake Parts cleaner and insert straw into the end of the tubing and spray till clear, clean, fluid is coming out of the other end and immediately tilt in all directions getting all the loose fluid out then put some fresh PS fluid immediately in to keep the rubber from drying out. tape the ends and clean the outside of the hose with degreaser or dawn works great to. dry thoroughly.

I suggest you put new pump on loosely*it only fits one way and the bracket on back is no longer used* then post your hose in position so you can see how much you need to cut back and the angle for your hose bend. Mark with white sharpie or chalk or tape.

Now using a 3/8 pipe bending tool(roughly $11 advance) make the necessary bends then using a pipe cutter take off the end of the tubing.

Now make sure you file the pipe smooth, free of paint, and get the opening free of burrs and even just enough to slide the nut and ferrule over snug.

Now slide your 3/8 flareless nut on the tubing then the ferrule. Now put your saginaw female flush up against the tube end and screw the nut down till you feel resistance with your fingers. then using a flarenut wrench on the nut and a 3/4 wrench on the saginaw tighten the fitting another 1 and 3/4 turns to make the ferrule bite on to the tubing. Now you can back off the saginaw fitting and the nut and ferrule will be secure.

Now MAKE SURE YOU CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE BOTH CRUSH WASHERS ON THE BANJO FITTING AND MAKE SURE THE FITTING IS CLEAR OF DEBRIS AND HAND SCREW IN TILL IT GETS SNUG THEN BACK OFF A HAIR. NEXT CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE AN ORING OVER THE FLARED END OF THE SAGINAW FITTING AND IT IS CLEAR OF DEBRIS INSIDE AND OUT. I USED BRAKE PARTS CLEANER AS IT IS POWERFUL AND FAST EVAPORATING. DAB SOME PS FLUID ON THE O RING AFTER TO PREVENT DRY ROT AND SCREW IT INTO THE PUMP.

Now you can tighten the flare nut down. Dont be afraid to put some muscle into it.
Tighten the banjo bolts pump bolts, hose clamp etc.

Change new Res out. There are a bunch of DIY on here already.

Drop tensioner and replace belt then finish tightening pulley bolts and double check all bolts. Then fill with power steering fluid till its all the way to the top. now turn the motor over 8-10 times never starting just cranking for more than a sec. go under car check all over for leaks, if a little is coming out the flareless nut then you did not tighten enough. Believe me its harder than you think...;)

Check res and fill to line crank motor over another 6-8 times then start her up. If you are on ramps back off and turn wheel lock to lock a few times and check level.

Happy Motoring! :excited:

PS. I honestly did not need to remove any outside parts to do this job but if you feel like you want more room you can look up a diy to remove your fan shroud and sway bar etc. but I just do not think its necessary.


I did not take pics as I was doing this(hence the extremely detailed and long write up) but I will take some pics of the finished product tomorrow during lunch and post.
 

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does your screen name stand for "fvck my boring life"?

anyways, if miles says he wishes there were more like you, i'll be reading this soon.... when i get back from my meeting ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
does your screen name stand for "fvck my boring life"?

anyways, if miles says he wishes there were more like you, i'll be reading this soon.... when i get back from my meeting ;)
No lol. actually it stands for Fvck More, B*tch Less. A grass roots slang revision of Make Love, Not War... I will post the link that further explains it in my sig which I plan on doing when I get home. I was actually waiting to finish painting my wheels...:4ngie:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok sorry it took so long to get some pics up but I added them to the post. First Pic is of the Saginaw with o ring, the Ferrule which bite to the tubing and forms a seal for the flareless nut, and the flareless nut in the order they go.
Next pic is of them installed into the PS pump onto the high pressure hose.

Note the fluid showing is not a leak, that was taken when I was installing it... Hope this helps!
 

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Awesome idea and execution. I need a new PS pump myself so I might attempt this. PM me your number in case I screw the pooch and need some advice will ya? LOL
 

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Has anyone else done this? Can someone help me find the parts online? 3/8" Flareless Ferrule, 3/8" Flareless Nut, High Performance Saginaw Met. I found a place in my area that said they could get the parts but they need more dimensions. I'd like to just get it ordered asap because my car has been sitting in the driveway way too long. :(

*Nevermind, just bought the Codan hose
 

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Amazing. Thanks for reigniting my faith in this forum.
 

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Too long and not enough pictures. For that I would of just paid for the OEM. Actually I did buy OEM and did it as one of my very first noob jobs. Nice to have alternate supplies if the parts are easy to come by. The OEM hose is capable of well over 100k miles and is a perfect fit. So even paying the full dealer price is still quite reasonable.
 

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A P/S system is just a simple hydraulic system. There's no harm in substituting parts from the tractor supply store, except for a little ding in aesthetics.

I've become very experienced in make-shift hydraulic repairs with my work's Pisten Bullys. That's like working on the Space Shuttle compared to this.
 
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