E46 Fanatics Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys need your advice again.
I am having an issue with my front suspension and is kind of weird.
When I first start my car and turn my steering wheel I hear a pop/knock sound as if something is snapping into place. Happens only when turning left.
Lifted the car up check for play at 9&3 12&6 all tight.
I replaced my left LCA because the lower balljoint was shot but the right one (driver side) is unchanged.
New CAB new front shocks and top mounts.
Also check for play in tierod inner outer and end link everything is tight.
The snap/pop/knock can be felt in the foot well and in the steering wheel.
It happens only once when I first turn the steering to the left and the rest of thr drive everything is smooth.
A few days ago noticed the noise when making a left turn coming in my drive way and got the noise only once when driving.
P.s I do hear some noise when going over bumps and suspects the right LCA.
What possible reason are there to this issue?
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
Could be many things.
Are the subframe bolts tight? Subframe shift under load?
Metal plate to subframe loose?
Steering joint has play?

Please add year/model/engine to your nametag.
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could be many things.
Are the subframe bolts tight? Subframe shift under load?
Metal plate to subframe loose?
Steering joint has play?

Please add year/model/engine to your nametag.
Subframe bolts are tight.
What other subframe plates could be moving?
Name tag updated
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My car makes the same noise as in the video @0:15. But not all the time
 

·
Registered
2016 340i xD 6-spd
Joined
·
26,774 Posts
Sway bar endlinks was going to be my random guess. Usually you replace both side control arms together, so if one went bad (not from a major hit) the other would be in about the same condition)...but, I'm liking endlinks...not sure why. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Sway bar endlinks was going to be my random guess. Usually you replace both side control arms together, so if one went bad (not from a major hit) the other would be in about the same condition)...but, I'm liking endlinks...not sure why. :)
Only reason I say that is when mine were going bad I got a knock when turning the wheel, plus they're cheap and easy to chamge

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My end links are tight tho I checked.
I will be replacing end links and tie rod ends and the right LCA.
The only issue I am getting is that where I live the parts are way too expensive if it is readily available. I will have to go parts hunting.
Other inputs are most welcome.
Thanks for the help guys.
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
Especially for you, I'm an advocate of checking before buying.
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Especially for you, I'm an advocate of checking before buying.
So this issue is kind of stressing me a little bit and jack the car up. Re checked everything and check steering rack bolts swaybar bushings bolts and to my surprise my right tie rod(orientation is then I am sat in the car) was loose and by that I mean that i grabbed it and shook it first then tried to rotate it (clockwise/anticlockwise) and it turned quite easily. The left one did not move at all.
I thought it was not tighten properly so removed the bolt and tightened it again it still was moving but not that much. The joint had no play but was definitely loose.
I turned the steering and no noise at the moment.
Will go for a drive later and will update you.
Other thing I noticed is that when the tie rod was undone I tried to rotate the strut and checked if my new top mounts were gone but no sound there but the lower ball joint had the slightest of pop like feeling in my hands or it normal idk or maybe it increases under the car weight.
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the issue is fixed
It was indeed the right side. Besides the fact the new strut mounts were shot both side, on the right side when the shop installed the mount they did not put the bearing that goes between the shock perch and the bearing of the strut mount. It started to bind and make noise when turning.
Changed the mount to Boge and added the washer. Issue fixed and the thing is turning smooth.
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
Presumably part # 6?

Most fail to see the importance of this little innocuous washer. It provides the pivot point to enable the strut to rotate easily. There's also a dust cap # 5, that is also important. FWIW I usually pack just a little more wheel bearing grease into the bearing before installation.

The washer should be cleaned and a small amount of grease applied to both sides. Also the top of #7 where it pivots.
The dust cap # 4, is also important to keep dirt out of the bearing for longevity.


Astute readers will also notice the two extra parts on this diagram:
# 12 the spacer.
# 13 the reinforcement plate.

If your car does have the # 12 (not USA) one can remove and lower the nose some.
This spacer has been used on various BMW's since the 2002 & the 3.0 cars.
 

·
Registered
2001 BMW E46 318 M43B19 ENGINE
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Presumably part # 6?

Most fail to see the importance of this little innocuous washer. It provides the pivot point to enable the strut to rotate easily. There's also a dust cap # 5, that is also important. FWIW I usually pack just a little more wheel bearing grease into the bearing before installation.

The washer should be cleaned and a small amount of grease applied to both sides. Also the top of #7 where it pivots.
The dust cap # 4, is also important to keep dirt out of the bearing for longevity.


Astute readers will also notice the two extra parts on this diagram:
# 12 the spacer.
# 13 the reinforcement plate.

If your car does have the # 12 (not USA) one can remove and lower the nose some.
This spacer has been used on various BMW's since the 2002 & the 3.0 cars.
Yes that is the exact same part.
Tbh I didn't know that it had the #5 and the new shop that I went didnt know either. We run mostly Japanese car here.
As soon as I started the car and turned the steering wheel it was so smooth and no sound what so ever.

To note that the mount has metal all around and it was the metal part that was rubbing on the below #7 and it would pop/knock when metal turned on each other because #7 has some lifted parts the cross thing.
The rubbing was quite visible also
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
5,548 Posts
YES, without the washer you turn the wheel, the spring winds up and then it overcomes the friction.
Bing, bing on every turn.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top