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This is a DIY installing an Apexcone Raptor V2 Mid Sized HID conversion kit from www.DDMtuning.com<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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The install replaces the H11 Fog lights on a February 2003 325i <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Sedan</st1:place></st1:City> - Facelifted version.<o:p></o:p>
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I know there are a couple of other DIY's covering this topic, but are either for the non-facelift version or didn't have enough details in the pics, so I took pics along the way. After reviewing them I think they are useful.<o:p></o:p>
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And please, I know fogs are supposed to be 3000K to be really useful, but ***8230;.<o:p></o:p>
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STEP ONE: The un-boxing of the kit
I purchased the 8000K color temp, standard size 35W ballasts that have the ignitor inside.<o:p></o:p>
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The complete kit unboxed.<o:p></o:p>

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There is a rubber boot connecting the lamp wires with the ballast supply wires. This is NOT needed in our installation and if it is removed (carefully) it will make the install easier & cleaner.<o:p></o:p>
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Snipping the boot off.<o:p></o:p>

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The complete circuit for one side. Connections are labelled for reference later.<o:p></o:p>


STEP TWO: Gaining access to the Fog lights
I have read recommendation on this site & others to remove the main lights to gain access to the fogs from above. I have removed my lights before - for my Angel Eyes install and again to replace my OEM HID ignitor. I really don't enjoy taking the lights out. You have to empty the Washer fluid or it will drain everywhere. You have to protect the bumper to prevent scratches. You have to disconnect the wiring, made even worse with the addition of the Angel Eyes. And you only get about a 3-4 inch opening to access the lower bumper.<o:p></o:p>
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So, I jacked up the front of the car, pulled the front wheels, and gained access through the wheel wells.<o:p></o:p>
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This is the passenger side. Remove the two screws left & center (10mm socket) & then the pushpin on the right. To remove the pushpin, use a small flat head screwdriver & pry the center pin out about a ¼" and then remove the complete pushpin assembly.<o:p></o:p>


Underneath there are two more 10mm screws and if you car is equipped with windshield washer sprayer heaters (separate from the cold weather package) then you will have a temp sensor for that system (see arrow). It is also known as a Hockey-puck sensor. Gently push the sensor with your thumb up into the bumper.<o:p></o:p>
Ok,


I have better pic's of removing this covering from the drivers side, so we jump to the inside view. Oh, I also removed the central splash pan at this point.


Existing H11 bulb is removed from the housing with a 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise.


And then it is pulled straight back out of the housing. Squeeze the sides of the connector housing and wiggle/pull to remove the bulb from the connector.<o:p></o:p>


Drivers side - the same four 10mm screws and one pushpin were removed as on the passengers' side. Slide the cover in the direction of the arrow as far as it will go - about an inch.

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Gentle pry the plastic to release the catch.<o:p></o:p>


And slide the cover in direction of arrow and wiggle (scientific term).<o:p></o:p>


Push sides of connector and release wire from the main Outside Temperature Sensor & its off.<o:p></o:p>


STEP THREE: Mounting the ballast<o:p></o:p>
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The kit comes with a double sided adhesive pad intended to stick the ballast on to some clean flat surface. They have no mounting holes on them at all. I removed two of the ballast body screws, and using M3 standoffs from a leftover computer install (or from your local Radio Shack / The Source) I extended the mounts to provide a hanger for the ballasts.<o:p></o:p>


Needed to drill one hole in the existing fog bracket.<o:p></o:p>


And using a small carriage bolt on the left, and the existing fog light screw on the right.

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I hung the new ballast just under the fog light.<o:p></o:p>


STEP FOUR (optional): Shortening the supply wire<o:p></o:p>
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The supply wire is intended to be long enough in case you have to mount the ballast two feet away from the bulb position. As you can see this is not the case here, so I decided to shorten the harness.<o:p></o:p>


'B' plugs into the ballast and 'A' connects to the original H11 bulb connector.<o:p></o:p>


Make sure connection 'A' is fully seated & the retaining clips click into place.<o:p></o:p>


STEP FIVE: HID bulb install<o:p></o:p>
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Pretty straight forward, align big tab of the bulb retaining ring into big opening in bulb housing.

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And turn bulb 1/8 turn clockwise.<o:p></o:p>


Bulb is seated.<o:p></o:p>


STEP SIX: Final connections<o:p></o:p>
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Connect bulb tails into connector 'C' from ballast.<o:p></o:p>


Ok, so this is where I tested it with one light hooked up to, well, you know, to see how it looked ***8230; <o:p></o:p>
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I'm a little AR & I'm not sure if having the Temp Sensor disconnected would through a error code, so I reconnected it before testing.<o:p></o:p>


AAAANNNNDDDD ***8230;***8230; it didn't work!!!<o:p></o:p>
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I was a little worried when I made the connection at 'A' and the RED wire connected to the BROWN on the car (typically ground in our German world) and the BLACK connected to the YELLOW with BROWN. Since I assumed DDMtuning knew what they were doing, I shrugged & continued. So at this point I grabbed my voltmeter & confirmed that yup, the wires are backwards. I found our later that DDMtuning has a post on under their FAQs section warning that some CARS - not there connectors - are wired in reverse. Halogen bulbs like H11's don't have polarity.<o:p></o:p>
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So I had to reverse things.<o:p></o:p>


Hooked back up.<o:p></o:p>


And tested. I put the H11 bulb back in the passengers' side to compare. This is with the low beams off but my Angel Eyes are lit up.<o:p></o:p>


They are shinning high on the wall since I still have the front end in the air.<o:p></o:p>


STEP SEVEN: Clean up wiring<o:p></o:p>
Drivers' side.<o:p></o:p>


Repeat STEPS THREE though SEVEN on passengers' side.<o:p></o:p>


STEP EIGHT: Reinstalling covers<o:p></o:p>
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Tuck lower wheel well cover inside upper cover.<o:p></o:p>


Make sure Temp Sensor is reconnected.<o:p></o:p>


Bend (slightly) and tuck into lower bumper (arrow) and aligning slot with catch (oval).<o:p></o:p>


First, fully seat catch (oval) and then slide the complete cover into bumper & align screw holes. Reinstall two 10mm screws. Then reinstall two 10mm screws & pushpin from inside the wheel well.<o:p></o:p>


Installation of passangers' side is identical. Washer fluid temp sensor - hockey puck - (if equipped) just presses back into the cover on with four plastic retaining hooks.<o:p></o:p>
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And the final product with just the Angel Eyes on.<o:p></o:p>






And lit up with my 6000K OEM bi-zenon .... ahhhhhh 40 pic limit ... need another post - lol
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice. Props. How long did it take? Not including DDM delivery delays...:rofl:
Thank you, but you are going to laugh at me when I tell you how long it took. According to the date stamps on my pictures it took me almost four hours, but I had a couple of pauses in there along the way. I did it last weekend so I just took my time. The worst part was figuring out where exactly I was going to mount the ballasts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice work Steve. Do you have angel eyes?
Thank you sir. Nice new sig btw.

Yup, Becky bought me Angel Eyes for my birthday last summer. I wanted CCFL for the cool temp color. I think the 30 LED rings look blotchy and the 60 LED rings are too bright.

I got them @ www.corner73.com They were on sale for $99 CDN & they have canadian depot in Quebec so no duty to pay coming across the border. Lifetime Warranty as well :)

http://www.corner73.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_83&products_id=211

Now that is a long install if you want it to be stealth !!!
 

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I purchased the Mtech2 through DDM Tuning. It includes the Fog Light. There was no wires , nothing just the foglights and bulbs.

I have not removed my front bumper yet and wanted to know If I have the foglight connector since my stock dont have a foglight in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I purchased the Mtech2 through DDM Tuning. It includes the Fog Light. There was no wires , nothing just the foglights and bulbs.

I have not removed my front bumper yet and wanted to know If I have the foglight connector since my stock dont have a foglight in the first place.
I think you mean that you bought a complete Mtech2 bumper with foglights, but you only got the bulbs. Did I get that right?

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/E46-MTech-II-Sedan-Front-Bumper-w-Fog-Lights

If that's the case it sounds like you are missing pieces to me.

The HID conversion kit is the first thing I have purchased from these guys ... I don't know about there other products.
 

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Thank you, but you are going to laugh at me when I tell you how long it took. According to the date stamps on my pictures it took me almost four hours, but I had a couple of pauses in there along the way. I did it last weekend so I just took my time. The worst part was figuring out where exactly I was going to mount the ballasts.
I just realized how hard is it to replace the fog lights bulbs, im thinking of doing it, are there any other way to just change the bulbs, not the HID projectors
 

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Nice job, very clean install. But wow, that looks like a HUGE job! My ballasts have been mounted on the aluminum bumper bar with double sticky tape for 3 years now without any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I just realized how hard is it to replace the fog lights bulbs, im thinking of doing it, are there any other way to just change the bulbs, not the HID projectors
If you have the facelift'd bumper, you have to go in from behind - either through the wheel well or remove the complete headlight assembly & gain access from above.

Nice job, very clean install. But wow, that looks like a HUGE job! My ballasts have been mounted on the aluminum bumper bar with double sticky tape for 3 years now without any issues.
Yup, I almost used the double sided tape supplied. I was a little woried about it coming loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I need the ballast and what else so I can use the foglights.
If you get the ballast from ddm, then they will have the integrated ignitors so you won't need anything else.

You will have to match the ballasts to the bulbs that you have. They should be marked.

Well done. Great write up and pictures....I am looking to do this now too. Thanks
Thanks.
 

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I live in some heavy forest area in NJ and alot of civics here have HID installed with standard halogen headlights. I want to mount a turret in front of my car to deal with these people cause everytime they pass me i go blind for a couple of seconds(how is this legal?).. I have to assume that bmw did not build our foglight housings with HIDs in mind. So is this as bad as HIDs in civic halogen headlights to oncoming traffic ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I live in some heavy forest area in NJ and alot of civics here have HID installed with standard halogen headlights. I want to mount a turret in front of my car to deal with these people cause everytime they pass me i go blind for a couple of seconds(how is this legal?).. I have to assume that bmw did not build our foglight housings with HIDs in mind. So is this as bad as HIDs in civic halogen headlights to oncoming traffic ?
Ok, quick answer is "Absolutely not".<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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I switched to the HID’s originally because I wanted at least a 6000K color temp to match my original bi-Z's. I tried the Sylvania & GE high end Halogen bulbs but I wasn't impressed.<o:p></o:p>
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Since the foglights in the facelifted version sit behind a pretty thick diffuser lens, the actual light output of the 35W HID's is not a lot more than the original H11 bulbs.<o:p></o:p>
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Ok, looking back up & the picks, maybe it’s a bit more than that, but it’s not a killer output. Also they are aimed low AND they actually have adjustment screws to modify the aim. It’s the first time I have seen adjustments on foglights.<o:p></o:p>
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Anyway, I would compare the look to what you see stock in some of the late model Audi’s.<o:p></o:p>

My next mod is a 4" tailpipe ... Yes I am kidding.
 

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I got an HID Extra kit for my foglights and they work but when I turn them on, all the gauges go to zero, there is a beeping noise that won't go away. Help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got an HID Extra kit for my foglights and they work but when I turn them on, all the gauges go to zero, there is a beeping noise that won't go away. Help.
Who makes the HID Extra kit? Is it a 35W ballast or a 55W. If 55W, maybe it's pulling too much current?!? I'm only guessing here.

I woudl try connecting one side up at a time & seeing if the problem is due to one side in particular. Maybe just a bad ballast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Wow. The hid extra dot com kit looks exactly like the ddmtuning.com one that I put in - right down to the wiring harnesses and the double sided stick pads. Can anyone tell me why if you type that complete website in a post that it get replaced with *****.com?

I still get the feeling that the ballast are drawing more power than the original bulbs & making things go screwy.A couple of ideas:
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1. As I suggested before, can you leave the ballasts plugged in & disconnect the bulbs to see if your dash goes back to normal.<o:p></o:p>
2. Can you plug in the original bulbs and verify that the original config still is good<o:p></o:p>
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What bulbs are in the 1999 that you are replacing? I think the changed to the H11 in 2003 with the facelift.<o:p></o:p>
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If both 1 & 2 configurations above are good, then you may have to put in a new relay powered from the battery and switch the relay using the existing fog light connections.<o:p></o:p>
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Another thought - where did you mount the ballast? I don't know for sure but the cases may not be isolated. If you mount them somewhere metallic in the car, it may produce undesirable results. Can you try 'floating' them & see if that clears the issue?<o:p></o:p>
 
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