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Oil Separator drain hose and smog system leaks

I just got done replacing the 323Ci's starter. :hmm: :ben: :idea: :excited:

When I disconnected the bracket for the dipstick, I noticed the oil drain-back hose had turned to mush, like gum. One thing no one has mentioned is that you can easily reach the top up under the intake manifold if you remove the air filter, and the dipstick pulls right out (it only has a O-ring holding it), that the drain's lower end attaches to in a Y-bracket.
I just used a piece of 1/2" hose, and pushed it onto the old clip at the top and the Y at the bottom of the dipstick tube, which is easy if you pull it out a little bit.

I also discovered on the left (passenger) side of the engine the little 8" long twisted hose from a 3" diam. solonoid to the 6" black round smog air pump had disintegrated at the bottom elbow, so that one is worthy of checking out, too, if you want to pass a Smog Test.

At the back right corner of the intake manifold (need to remove the Cabin Filter housing to get there) is a small black/white check valve for the same smog system. It's tiny vacuum hoses had disintegrated, and the tube had come off the white end. I replaced the little tubes and glued them on with silicone. The 3rd hose from the vacuum switch goes behind the engine, wraps around it, and goes to the solonoid in the front. That little vacuum hose had broken, too, at the end of the rod-like part where it passes by the Injector harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
That looks to be a good quick method for replacing just the hose itself without replacing the plastic elbow. The bona fide replacement hoses have a couple of upgrades versus a length of standard hose (such as a 45-degree bend [less-torsional-stress on the hose] in the plastic elbow and a braided protective covering on the hose itself), but replacing just the hose should do fine for the intermediate term. The bona fide replacement hose is cheap though, so those going for repair longevity may want to just go for that one unless they need a quick fix.

I haven't read much, if anything, about the other vacuum hoses you talked about, so those would be good ones for people to check on (in addition to the usual suspects like intake boots, DISA gasket, for example) when they need to diagnose vacuum problems. Excellent input! :thumbsup:
 

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I just did mines today.
Wow, what a job. I think I took 8hrs and I did not remove the manifold. If I had remove the manifold I think I would have gotten the CVV on easier. :tsk:
Putting on the hoses were a PITA. I pushed some in so hard until they clicked. I am disappointed at where BMW located this item when it needs to be replaced this frequently. :thumbdwn:

I guess I could say I belong to the CVV DIY club :thumbup:.
My problem where the vacuum line become so soft from the oil and heat that it just broke off. The car started to misfire and knock due to the fact that the vacuum hose was disconnected.

Here are some pics if it helps others to get a better view of the job.

DISA removed showing the electrical box. That box was a PITA, it was always in the way.


Top of the engine, where the cabin filter is located. I replaced the little hose there too. There is one right beneath the manifold that i did not get access to. I will have to do that in the future.



Old CVV


Dipstick bolt removed. During installation, I did not get the dipstick to go all the way in, I can still see the rubber grommet after I tried so hard to push it in. Can somone tell me if this is normal? :facepalm:



Power steering reservoir pushed to the right. Looking from the front. Wires are labelled for easy reference on assembly



I can now go and pat myself on the back cuz no-one will do it :woot:
 

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Dipstick bolt removed. During installation, I did not get the dipstick to go all the way in, I can still see the rubber grommet after I tried so hard to push it in. Can somone tell me if this is normal? :facepalm:
It is normal. The O-ring just sits on top of the opening in the oil pan. I went ahead and put some silicone all around the top of the o-ring to prevent any seepage but I think that was a bit unnecessary. I was just tired of all the oil leaks to the point where after I went in to fix everything, I never want to see an oil leak again. :idea:
 

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It is normal. The O-ring just sits on top of the opening in the oil pan. I went ahead and put some silicone all around the top of the o-ring to prevent any seepage but I think that was a bit unnecessary. I was just tired of all the oil leaks to the point where after I went in to fix everything, I never want to see an oil leak again. :idea:
So I guess I will have to check for leaks :(.

Seems like a design flaw to me
 

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The very reason why I siliconed it! :D

When you begin poking more around in the engine compartment you will see more design flaws. :shhh:
I see alot of flaws already :D

When I removed the dipstick I did not see a grommet, I dont now if I dropped it or what. But I end up going to the dealership to pay $5 for a grommet. I should have just go to a hardware store w/ my dipstick and find any rubber grommet for it. It would have just cost me a few cents. :tsk:
 

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I see alot of flaws already :D

When I removed the dipstick I did not see a grommet, I dont now if I dropped it or what. But I end up going to the dealership to pay $5 for a grommet. I should have just go to a hardware store w/ my dipstick and find any rubber grommet for it. It would have just cost me a few cents. :tsk:
When you remove the dipstick the grommet usually stays in the engine. You have to remove it before installing the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
RockerGuy, In the various oil separator/CVV threads that I've read, most people have a hard time reinstalling the dipstick tube and O-ring. If you are completely sure that the old O-ring is out of its seat in the oil pan, you might try one of these methods for getting it back together correctly:

• "Insert the oil dipstick O-ring onto the base of the guide tube before installation. Before fully inserting the guide tube to the engine port, tuck in the O-ring into its chamber and then fully seat the guide tube." (This method seems more likely to work best.)
• You could also try putting the O-ring into its spot in the oil pan first, then pushing the well-lubed dipstick tube in last.

Also, I am curious as to which of your hoses broke in the first place. Was it the same one I described in the beginning of this thread (ie, the one from the oil separator to the dipstick tube), or was it a different one for you?
 

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RockerGuy, In the various oil separator/CVV threads that I've read, most people have a hard time reinstalling the dipstick tube and O-ring. If you are completely sure that the old O-ring is out of its seat in the oil pan, you might try one of these methods for getting it back together correctly:

• "Insert the oil dipstick O-ring onto the base of the guide tube before installation. Before fully inserting the guide tube to the engine port, tuck in the O-ring into its chamber and then fully seat the guide tube." (This method seems more likely to work best.)
• You could also try putting the O-ring into its spot in the oil pan first, then pushing the well-lubed dipstick tube in last.

Also, I am curious as to which of your hoses broke in the first place. Was it the same one I described in the beginning of this thread (ie, the one from the oil separator to the dipstick tube), or was it a different one for you?
The dipstick is not leaking actually. I removed my driver's side front wheel this weekend and I could see clearly where the dipstick is sitting. I Put my finger there and did not see anything.

My fault were the small vacuum hose that runs from the CVV to the top of the manifold where the injectors are. My question is, my cold weather CVV come plugged for that little vacuum hole. I removed the plug and installed the small hose. I wonder if the plugged hole is an improved version or I am supposed to install it as I saw it in the 1st place?
 

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For the past month or so, I've been leaking oil about 1 quart per 7500 miles. No codes or SES. I took off the splash guard and the air filter box and was looking around.

Sure enough I found hose #4 to be leaking as described in the thread. Before coming across this thread I was thinking of replacing the CCV and all the hoses. However if i only have to replace hose #4 and if it is quite easy, I'd rather do that. The oil separator is not leaking at the moment. What do you think?

Btw i have 2005 330i with 80K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Excuse my late replies...

RockerGuy, you've probably already resolved this, but if it were me, I would do as your gut feeling told you to do: remove the plug as you mentioned and hook up all your hoses to the CVV as normal. All the realoem diagrams show all hoses connected (unless you're talking about a hose that is not on realoem).

daonlydann, replacing hose #4 is extremely easy, so you have nothing to lose by trying that simple replacement first. I wouldn't take out the oil dip stick tube though (I never did), so that you can avoid the grommet problems that people have when they remove it.
 

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Excuse my late replies...

RockerGuy, you've probably already resolved this, but if it were me, I would do as your gut feeling told you to do: remove the plug as you mentioned and hook up all your hoses to the CVV as normal. All the realoem diagrams show all hoses connected (unless you're talking about a hose that is not on realoem).

daonlydann, replacing hose #4 is extremely easy, so you have nothing to lose by trying that simple replacement first. I wouldn't take out the oil dip stick tube though (I never did), so that you can avoid the grommet problems that people have when they remove it.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a check engine light on now, the codes say it might be an evaporative valve. I will wait till spring to get it resolved. I hope its not one of the hoses that slipped off
 

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Thank you sir

:clap:My 2000 328 has been having the exact same codes & running symptoms. I've been scratching my head for months over this.:hmm: I have 150k miles on it & refuse to let the dealership here touch it anymore. I haven't torn it apart yet, but i've learned most issues can be traced to deteroiated rubber/plastic parts, rather than the devices they connect. I'm crossing my fingers that mine hose is cracked like yours.:excited:
UPDATE!!!! I actually fixed mine in 20mins, bought a piece of 1/2"fuel line ($1.50) & reused the origional elbow....gsbmw YOU ROCK!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hey, my pleasure man. Glad to help out a fellow driver. And thanks for that great post... Made my day. :thumbsup:

Yeah, like you, I've had it with the dealer (as well as the indy shops), and besides, its fun to fix and solve most of the problems that crop up, and fun to save buckets of money at the same time. Sounds like you've got a good start on fixing most problems on your car with the help of forums like this one.

Just keep a close eye on that cooling system... The heads are like glass and will crack at the slightest overheating or even just driving with low coolant for too long. It is one of the few places where preventative replacement of parts is well worthwhile.
 
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