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Discussion Starter #1
Car is a 2003 330i, manual trans swapped. Been getting these errors for a while now been reading various forums and trying what people suggest on other forums, but I***8217;m still losing this fight. Tried smoke testing, fixed everything that was leaking. Things that I changed; new CCV, new intake boots, new brake booster hoses all the way to the engine, spark plugs, ignition coils, all new Bosch o2 sensors, victor reins valve cover gaskets and grommets, various vacuum hoses that I saw were cracked, new cam sensors, new fuel pump, got a sending unit from the junkyard (it looked as though the owner of that car changed it because it was VDO and had a worm clamp instead of the crimp clamp BMW uses), oil change, new driveshaft guibo, new shift pin kit, new all new bushing for shifter, solid PBM CSB. Possibly missing more things that I changed, but don***8217;t remember off the top of my head. The only symptoms I feel currently are from a stop in first gear when taking off it feels like I have turbo lag, then at about 1000-1500 rpm it***8217;s like the turbo kicks in and pulls all the way to redline. Also have been randomly getting sputtering when going about 4K cruising on the freeway. Kind of at a loss on what it could be and need some help. Did this freeze frame with OBDFUSION, but have no clue what it means. Any help is much appreciated.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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Great list. Very helpful. It is important to understand what trims are at low v high RPM. Leaks tend to manifest at low RPM and go away at high RPM (for anyone reading this later). Sensor issues tend to be consistent, and fuel delivery is usually worse trims at high RPM than low.

Not clear whether OP has done a smoke test - folks here like the homebrew ones, I am more a fan of getting it done at a shop. Some other places leaks happen:
1. SAP vacuum lines behind manifold (if you have them)
2. Dipstick lower o-ring(s)
3. Brake booster (not likely to cause extremely high trims)
4. Vacuum caps
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have done a smoke test, my friends friend owns a shop and that’s how I found some of the leaks. Didn’t check the sap side with the smoke tester, but did a visual and didn’t see any cracks on the lines. Also changed the dipstick o ring. Been busy with my grandma in town and her staying with me, but she leaves Friday so hopefully I can get to it this weekend. Here’s another freeze frane I pulled after clearing codes. I’ll try to connect with you again Bali to update my dme some time. Was supposed to do that with you 9 months ago but that car Got totaled. After I fought these codes and got them all sorted on the other e46 I had. fml. Haha
4EE8DE10-13A2-4FAC-9D2D-0400AF7366DA.png
 

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Had some time to tinker around today with the car, didn’t see any smoke coming out anywhere. Checked the maf, cleaned it with some maf cleaner. When it was out my friends friend (has a euro shop) said I had the wrong maf in there. He said there are different style mafs for this car. I was using my new one I bought for my 2001 330i, but I guess he said the 2003+ use a different style. Went to the junkyard and got another maf off my year car, and they did ask for production date, verifying that the style changed. Cleaned the new one off with some cleaner, popped it in, and we will see if it makes a difference. Hopefully this was the problem, and don’t need to throw anymore money at it. The car has 120k on the clock, so prolly good that I did go through it and replace most the stuff. A lot of the vacuum hoses were cracking and brittle, so hopefully it’s all good. I’ll post again next weekend if this was the problem. Thanks again guys!
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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...my friends friend (has a euro shop) said I had the wrong maf in there. He said there are different style mafs for this car. I was using my new one I bought for my 2001 330i, but I guess he said the 2003+ use a different style. Went to the junkyard and got another maf off my year car, and they did ask for production date, verifying that the style changed.
The pre-03/2003 MAF has a different (3-pin) connector than the later (6-pin) one, so it would not even plug into your wiring harness.
Make sure the brand is genuine BMW or Siemens or VDO.
 

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Only thing I have gotten so far is that maf I just got. Wanted to make sure it’s the right one before I dropped another 200. The maf I had on my 2001 330i plugged into my 2003 330i. Unless I just jammed the plug in there
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also the maf from the yard is a Siemens, so was my other one. I try to get Bosch, Siemens, VDO for most of my stuff because I read on here how bad other ebay, amazon crap is.
 

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I don't post on here alot but have been chasing the lean codes as well on a 330i . Some advice on fuel trims long-term, when you change a part doesn't matter what long term is it won't change before your eyes. Long term is stored in the computer memory and is learned from short term fuel trims over time . Short term is what the car is doing real time . Your short term are higher than long term meaning car is starving for fuel. Again with everything you done there's two things you can do.
1. Reset fuel adaptations using BMW software.
2. Clear codes and drive car on a trip 40+ miles, so car can learn I'm not exactly sure on miles but drive it lol I have been doing 1.

Suggestions
1. Check fuel pressure to rule out fuel issues. 50psi motor idling. If lower than 47psi you have a weak pump or clogged fuel filter. Lean codes are to much air could be a vacuum leak or not enough fuel. Fuel system is easy to test. And forgive me I've read this post a couple of times and have not seen where you tested fuel system other than a new pump.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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Only thing I have gotten so far is that maf I just got. Wanted to make sure it’s the right one before I dropped another 200. The maf I had on my 2001 330i plugged into my 2003 330i. Unless I just jammed the plug in there
You just can't get MAF from a junkyard. It is a very sophisticated sensor, it is not a tie rod. You cannot plug an MS43 MAF into an MS45 harness or vice versa, not only do they have a different number of pins (the MS45 has a temp sensor in the MAF, the earlier version has the temp sensor in the manifold), but the connector shape is completely different. It is possible you pulled one from a different engine.

You need a MAF. Go to FCPEuro and they will direct you to the right one for your VIN. Don't buy from RockAuto or AutoAnything.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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I don't post on here alot but have been chasing the lean codes as well on a 330i . Some advice on fuel trims long-term, when you change a part doesn't matter what long term is it won't change before your eyes. Long term is stored in the computer memory and is learned from short term fuel trims over time . Short term is what the car is doing real time . Your short term are higher than long term meaning car is starving for fuel. Again with everything you done there's two things you can do.
It is true that LTFT are long-term adaptations, but it is not exactly true that STFT is what the car is doing now. Fuel trim can change dynamically based on a number of factors during a drive, but when there is an underlying anomaly, the ECU will set long-term fuel trims as a sort of baseline. The STFTs are deltas from that baseline, they are not independent.

This is why LTFTs trigger P0171/4, and why when you get those codes, you are recommended to focus first on getting LTFT down. When you make a change, like replacing a sensor, replacing the pump, or fixing a vacuum leak, the ECU will "adapt" to the new baseline, and it does take a bit.

STFTs are useful as a way of identfying what type of issue you have - High STFT at idle only indicates vacuum leak. Ad cruise only indicates fuel delivery, and at both indicates sensors.

Recommendation is:
1. Check fuel pressure first, as it is the easiest to diagnose. 50psi at the shrader valve on the fuel rail with the ignition on and engine off. Should hold for 25-30 minutes at 50psi when ignition is turned off. Failure on the first is the pump, second is the filter (contains the fuel pressure regulator)
2. Vacuum leaks second. I recommend pulling the intake and replacing everything. Costs around $450-600, and then you don't have to play whack-a-mole. Alternatively, you can smoke test an find where the leak is.
3. Sensors third. Hardest to diagnose. O2 sensors should be replaced at 100k miles or 125k miles depending on the type, MAF at 150-175k. You can diagnose lazy O2 sensors with logging. You can't diagnose a failing MAF accurately. Neither will throw codes (except lean codes and misfires) until they completely s**t the bed, so a lack of sensor codes is not a lack of issues
 
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