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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a new air intake manifold gasket, treadle body gasket, new disa valve from ECS tunning, a single piece air intake boot, cleaned fuel injectors, new cvv cold weather system a month ago in my 2004 E46 325i 2.5 M54.
Until yesterday it was working fine, on my way home the car just die on me, I was able to pull over to a safe location, turned ignition off and try to start the car again, the engine is cranking and turning over but it won't start, my friend let me borrow his scanner and the P0171, P0174 and P1511 showed. Any suggestions where should I begin to troubleshoot?
I can't
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Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
P1511 is an odd one - refers to your DISA valve wiring. I would make certain that the connection is secure and doesn't have any obvious contamination.
I will take the disa valve out of intake and while is plugged in I will turn the ignition key to position 2 to visually verify if the flap moves or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is a good step. By the way, if the seal does not offer meaningful resistance when you pull the disa out, either replace the o-ring or the disa
Pulled the disa valve to tested and worked great, I unplugged the fuel pump to test voltage going to the pump and I do have voltage, I plugged back and turned the ignition key to see if I can listen to the fuel pump activate and it did. Just out of curiosity I starter the car to see what happens and the car it did start. It ran fine, so I was wondering if by any chance the fuel got cut by an obstruction in the fuel line, I pulled the fuel pump out to check the mesh and it looks good. I did find out where I am leaking oil on my valve cover, that would explain my vacuum codes. I will test the fuel pump pressure tomorrow to see how much psi the fuel pump is making and see if I have any leaks in the system. Thanks
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I’m not trying to add to your issues but is that oil around the VCG? If so that might be one source of a vacuum leak.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’m not trying to add to your issues but is that oil around the VCG? If so that might be one source of a vacuum leak.


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I am really hoping that the issue. Last year in December I replace the valve cover gasket and new valve cover, I torqued to specs 10Nm, I remember I got really cold that week (18 - 20 degrees) but I never bother to check again the bolts to see if they were still tight, should I have done it????

Then in March I installed a new starter, new intake manifold gasket, new throttle body gasket, new ccv cold weather, new disa valve (nice and tight while pulling out) new vacuum lines, new air intake boot ( single boot form esc tunning. For 3 days I didn't had any codes and no engine service light on. Then the car started to smell like burn oil coming through the vents, I will pull the valve cover to see what fail there, I hope I don't need to replace the valve cover again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would start by checking for fuel pressure at the Shrader Valve on the fuel rail. It should be 3.5 bar +/- 0.2 bar.

Yes you have vacuum leaks to find, but the sudden "just stop" and not starting sounds like a fuel pump.

Read this thread. Fuel trims, lean codes, misfires and how to diagnose
Hello, I check the voltage in the fuel pump connector and I do have voltage, so I plugged back in and turned the ignition key to the first position to see if could listen the fuel pump activate and I was able to hear it, and just for the shits and giggles I tried to start the car and it did start, so turned off the car and removed the fuel pump to see if the filter mesh at the bottom of the pump was damage or had holes in it (still has the original fuel pump, I have 105,000 miles in it). The mesh was in good shape, I installed back in and attached the gauge to see what psi the fuel pump is generating, I turned the ignition key to the second position and I only have 35 psi (2.5 bars) I turned the ignition key off and waited 20 minutes to see if the pressure was going to drop and it did dropped down to 30 psi. I started the car to see how much pressure will build up and even when the car its running it only goes up to 48 psi. My question if the fuel pump is going bad or maybe the check valve inside the fuel pump is leaking allowing the pressure to escape 🤔?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is a good step. By the way, if the seal does not offer meaningful resistance when you pull the disa out, either replace the o-ring or the disa
The seal offers resistance when I pulled it the disa valve. Got the car running again and when I give it gas I can hear suction prior ramping up. And still have the p1151, p0171 and P0174
 

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Hello, I check the voltage in the fuel pump connector and I do have voltage, so I plugged back in and turned the ignition key to the first position to see if could listen the fuel pump activate and I was able to hear it, and just for the shits and giggles I tried to start the car and it did start, so turned off the car and removed the fuel pump to see if the filter mesh at the bottom of the pump was damage or had holes in it (still has the original fuel pump, I have 105,000 miles in it). The mesh was in good shape, I installed back in and attached the gauge to see what psi the fuel pump is generating, I turned the ignition key to the second position and I only have 35 psi (2.5 bars) I turned the ignition key off and waited 20 minutes to see if the pressure was going to drop and it did dropped down to 30 psi. I started the car to see how much pressure will build up and even when the car its running it only goes up to 48 psi. My question if the fuel pump is going bad or maybe the check valve inside the fuel pump is leaking allowing the pressure to escape 🤔?
Probably both. You should have 50psi which should largely hold for 20 mins. With those numbers I would say the fuel pump and the pressure regulator are shot
 

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You should get 50 PSI with the key in position 2 and the engine off. It's either the pump or the fuel pressure regulator, which is part of the fuel filter. As @Archbid suggests, change both to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Up date, while taking out my old fuel pump the vacuum line that comes off it was broken, after installing my new fuel pump, fuel pump regulator and installing an external check valve at the fuel pump my pressure increase oboe 50 psi, my P0171 and P0174 codes cleared. Car is finally running great again.
 

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The seal offers resistance when I pulled it the disa valve. Got the car running again and when I give it gas I can hear suction prior ramping up. And still have the p1151, p0171 and P0174

You said, P1511 earlier. P1511 or P1151? My guess for P1511 is that you pinched a wire that took a few days to show the damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You said, P1511 earlier. P1511 or P1151? My guess for P1511 is that you pinched a wire that took a few days to show the damage.
P1151, it had to do with the disa valve connection, once I tooked everything apart and put it back together that code didn't showed anymore, I checked the disa valve and it was working properly, I don't know what really fix that code 🤔🤔🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What vacuum line comes off the fuel pump? Also, why did you put another fpr on when you replaced the filter?
Mi mistake,I meant to say vacuum line coming out of fue filter, I did install a new fuel filter.
Thanks for noticing what I wrote, I was so excited about getting the car running that I wanted to share it, but I never checked what I wrote. Thank you
 
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