OSGiken Flywheel/Clutch - Bolts Backing Out
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Not sure, but atleast twice now. Time for some new steel bolts?
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29 Posts
I'd change them out just to see if it was the old bolts. Just a few more bucks for some new bolts. 
Oh I was planning on doing so regardless, but I'm just trying to figure out if there's any other reason the bolts would be backing out besides a stretched/worn bolt.I'd change them out just to see if it was the old bolts. Just a few more bucks for some new bolts.
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29 Posts
Maybe use some loctite in them. Lol
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760 Posts
Have you not been using locktight? You say switching to steel, are they aluminum... What grade are they if they are steel. If they are high grade it's doubtful they are relying on stretching to stay in place so number of times you've used them isn't as important.
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55 Posts
You're supposed to replace those bolts everytime the flywheel is removed or replaced. They should also have a generous about of loc-tite on them.
A flywheel coming off would be
A flywheel coming off would be
Loctite was used.. The first time they came loose we assumed someone used antisieze and not loctite. I'm not sure what bolts are in there. I'm not sure if the OsGiken kit comes with replacement bolt or you use your oem bolts. I'll have to check.
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4,025 Posts
The 330Ci and M3 use exactly the same flywheel bolts, and with my 330Ci they had to be replaced every time they were loosened.
One other issue I've seen is where bolts are over-torqued, and they are forced into plastic deformation resulting in the bolt coming loose. Once you stretch a metal, and it experiences plastic deformation, it does not return to it's original shape, and tensile strength is reduced.
One other issue I've seen is where bolts are over-torqued, and they are forced into plastic deformation resulting in the bolt coming loose. Once you stretch a metal, and it experiences plastic deformation, it does not return to it's original shape, and tensile strength is reduced.
I'm thinking this is what likely happened as many know my tranny's and engine have been in and out of my car more than myself.
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5,722 Posts
Almost always those bolts are one time use. None of the cars I've dealt with ever had Loctite or any sort of threadlocker or anti-seize on the threads either. I suppose some medium strength Loctite wouldn't hurt, but you should make sure it's capable of higher temperatures, since it will get as hot as whatever your oil temperature gets to.
Pay a lot of attention to making sure the threads are completely clean and dry, as well as free from any grit or burrs. The new bolts should thread in by finger all the way down. Also, try threading them all down without the flywheel to make sure they are not bottoming out or getting caught on anything near the bottom.
Still seems weird that would happen so quickly and easily.
Pay a lot of attention to making sure the threads are completely clean and dry, as well as free from any grit or burrs. The new bolts should thread in by finger all the way down. Also, try threading them all down without the flywheel to make sure they are not bottoming out or getting caught on anything near the bottom.
Still seems weird that would happen so quickly and easily.
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5,722 Posts
Did you personally torque or see them torqued? And to what value?
I did not but the tranny was taken out exclusively to tighten them so I'm sure they were, it's also possible I suppose that it was a clutch plate bolt and not a flywheel bolt. The os giken has like 16 bolts.
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5,722 Posts
Ohhhh... I thought you were talking about the big 8 bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crank...
Last time I put together a fidanza/uuc clutch, thread locker was called for on all the little screws and nuts. That seemed silly to me because of the possible temperatures, but I'm not going to dispute a manufacturer. Using high grade socket cap fasteners and all metal lock nuts would be my preference.
Last time I put together a fidanza/uuc clutch, thread locker was called for on all the little screws and nuts. That seemed silly to me because of the possible temperatures, but I'm not going to dispute a manufacturer. Using high grade socket cap fasteners and all metal lock nuts would be my preference.
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